1996 cummins blowby
i have a 1996 dodge diesel (mods in my sig) has 182k miles and i can start to see a little blowby which is pissing me off since i just put a engine in the truck becuse i bought it with a warped 9000s block. what to do
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This is not always an indication of cylinder blow bye .... It can also be caused by turbo blow bye, it comes through the return pipe from turbo... Could be either hot side or cold ... Take your oil return line off @block ... Place a hose over the line and then put the other end into a bucket with fresh oil .... Leave plenty of room ... If you see air bubbles ... Its your turbo and a simple rebuild will do the trick ... Keep us all posted on your results
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It could also point to a clogged crankcase ventilator. If it is, you can put a new factory unit on it but the design isn't that good. A better option is to put the valve cover breather on it from a Case (p/n: 2830784 and 4899194). There are a few more parts you'll need like bolts and seals, but the setup can be found with a Google search, I'm sure. Most of the ones I've seen use two (2 and 3, 4 and 5). Looks awesome, too.
Attachment 33299 |
Good idea ......
Also you can take each valve cover off and use a hole saw ... and have 6 smaller air cleaners for vents .... looks kewl, when there color coated too ... :tu::c: |
I honestly wouldn't worry about a little blowby mine has some blowby and it is just fine but that's just my opinion
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For what it's worth, a guy I know around here, David (BC847 on the forums) has blow by, even some sideways play in his pistons at the bottom of the stroke, and runs 7s in the 1/8th mile. It's his daily driver, too. He doesn't seem real concerned about it from the way he talks.
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Lol... Wow .... I would not be real happy with slop at bottom of stroke ... Good way to oval out the bores and loose the whole rotating assembly. .... For what its worth ... If your real concerned ... Pull injectors and there lines and do a compression and leak down test
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It would freak me out, too, but there aren't any diesel trucks I've seen at Dunn-Benson that would touch this guy. 7s with a VE pump in an extended cab 4x4? Blow by be damned.
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True .... And .... Its his engine so ... Blow it up !!!!:rocking:
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I bought this engine as a short block I have all new hoses,gaskets and everything down correctly from ground up and the only thing I havnt done was check the pistons or messed with the hx35 which has 300k miles on the turbo and the injectors were rebuilt with all knew springs lifters head camshaft which is why I am concerned with a little blowby after everything was done
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Hw manny miles since the build ? usually they will have some blow bye till they seal up ... can take 1K to 5K to really work the rings in ... I know our detroits (S60) usually consumes oil for around 3500 miles then just stops using iol and lives happily for quite a while ..
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between 2k and 5k
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Aww heck .... She's still a virgin .... Gonna need at least 10k .... Do some good long hill pulls with a decent amount of weight on a trailer .... Helps get things seated ...
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thats what i mean and there is a small amount of blow by
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Its to be expected since the engine isn't totally sealed up just yet .... Should and most likely is using a tad bt more than normal oil also .... Common on a new built engine ...
some blow bye and oil consumption is to be expected ..... like I said ... Go borrow or rent a trailer and load it up and go tow up some good sized hills and it should help a bit .... Racin around town or back roads ain't gonna do it .... They need to be worked in .... Or it will take quite a while .... 10/15K if your just cruzin around ... Wouldn't surprise me a bit |
What do you mean by "warped 9000s block"
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i block was warped "shape" to were it couldnt hold a head gasket due to major over heating
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Originally Posted by cummins Pride
(Post 1053989)
i block was warped "shape" to were it couldnt hold a head gasket due to major over heating
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Don't believe you? Dude, I couldn't even understand you.
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Seriously .... I have been rebuilding,building, and working on engines for nearly 20 years ..... I have never seen or herd of an engine overheating to the point of "warping" a block ... The head ... Yes obviously .... But never a block
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Originally Posted by 4x4manonbroke
(Post 1054138)
Seriously .... I have been rebuilding,building, and working on engines for nearly 20 years ..... I have never seen or herd of an engine overheating to the point of "warping" a block ... The head ... Yes obviously .... But never a block
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Yea someone got taken for a ride there. Pulled literally hundreds of heads and never once found a block issue with a straight edge. Had one get so hot it locked up and scored the walls heavily....deck was perfect! Even if it was it's not a big job to fix! Seen blocks decked for performance reasons and seem some decked for pitting but never a big one like these for a "warp".
Maybe a touch of a frown in a couple cases but never a reman type of situation! Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2 |
well then you all haven't seen what this (block) read 9000 inbetween the two back cylinder and in the middle of the block it read 7000 with a straight edge anything over 4000 is no good. Yes the block was warped 9,000 and the head was even warped and cracked. :bat:
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Originally Posted by cummins Pride
(Post 1054387)
well then you all haven't seen what this (block) read 9000 inbetween the two back cylinder and in the middle of the block it read 7000 with a straight edge anything over 4000 is no good. Yes the block was warped 9,000 and the head was even warped and cracked. :bat:
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2 |
"read 9000". lol This site is amazing.
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:argh:.. 9 thousandths is actually not too bad ... i have seen N14's at nearly double that ... still runnin years later ...
get the block decked , mill the head, use a thicker copper under the injector to correct spray depth and you should be just fine ... do a coolant bypass while your at it... will keep the head more evenly heated and will keep ya from vaporizing the coolant in the head ... drill a couple of small holes in T-stat as well .. helps minimize back pressure over all and will aid in heating up the bulb in the stat ... been doing that for years not ... to all of them :c: |
Originally Posted by 4x4manonbroke
(Post 1054416)
:argh:.. 9 thousandths is actually not too bad ... i have seen N14's at nearly double that ... still runnin years later ...
get the block decked , mill the head, use a thicker copper under the injector to correct spray depth and you should be just fine ... do a coolant bypass while your at it... will keep the head more evenly heated and will keep ya from vaporizing the coolant in the head ... drill a couple of small holes in T-stat as well .. helps minimize back pressure over all and will aid in heating up the bulb in the stat ... been doing that for years not ... to all of them :c: Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2 |
Originally Posted by mysterync
(Post 1054424)
The Cummins brand thermostats already have that feature!
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Originally Posted by the.beard
(Post 1054447)
That's how I busted a local BM parts guy trying to pass aftermarket parts off as genuine Cummins parts. Tried to sell me a thermostat with one bypass hole.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Originally Posted by 4x4manonbroke
(Post 1054416)
:argh:.. 9 thousandths is actually not too bad ... i have seen N14's at nearly double that ... still runnin years later ...
get the block decked , mill the head, use a thicker copper under the injector to correct spray depth and you should be just fine ... do a coolant bypass while your at it... will keep the head more evenly heated and will keep ya from vaporizing the coolant in the head ... drill a couple of small holes in T-stat as well .. helps minimize back pressure over all and will aid in heating up the bulb in the stat ... been doing that for years not ... to all of them :c: |
Originally Posted by cummins Pride
(Post 1054466)
why dont you just shut your mouth or just get your sarcastic crap out of hear doesn't help the situation at all.
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Originally Posted by cummins Pride
(Post 1054466)
why dont you just shut your mouth or just get your sarcastic crap out of hear doesn't help the situation at all
---AutoMerged DoublePost--- OK 9 thousandths in between cylinders 5 and 6 and then between 4 and 3, 7 thousandths and 2 and 1, 5000 thousands is pretty bad especially when i can see daylight under the straight edge only in someplace and a very trashed head is pretty dam bad. Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2 |
Originally Posted by mysterync
(Post 1054490)
That's not really bad at all. We have 2 heads at the shop right now that were worse than that and they'll be machined and re installed.
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Originally Posted by the.beard
(Post 1054488)
Hey, f*** you, buddy. I wasn't even talking to you, Mr. 9000s, with your non-deck-checkin' ass. Between the cylinders...pfft.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Originally Posted by mysterync
(Post 1054490)
That's not really bad at all. We have 2 heads at the shop right now that were worse than that and they'll be machined and re installed.
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Originally Posted by cummins Pride
(Post 1054508)
haha calm down your not making anyone look bad but this site and yourself
---AutoMerged DoublePost--- what causes this to happen then that engine only had 289k Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2 |
yes the block needed to be decked so with the engine only having 289k i decided to by a short block with only 182k miles on it and bought and milled a whole new head. I know that mostly all heads are some what warped and crack and most of the time. My cracks were from over tightening the injectors i think and i could see the engine was over heated since the belt was melted to the pulley and idler barring :w2:
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Originally Posted by cummins Pride
(Post 1054556)
yes the block needed to be decked so with the engine only having 289k i decided to by a short block with only 182k miles on it and bought and milled a whole new head. I know that mostly all heads are some what warped and crack and most of the time. My cracks were from over tightening the injectors i think and i could see the engine was over heated since the belt was melted to the pulley and idler barring :w2:
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2 |
800 dollar short block is a pretty dam good deal especially since it had 100,000 miles less than the other engine.
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