Engine build
#1
Engine build
I have a 1998 Dodge, 5.9., 5spd, bone stock. Am building a new engine. I have purchased, Head studs, AFE cold air intake, Intake Elbow, Governor springs, 60lb valve springs. The block is bored 60 over. AFC, and timing will be done. Have to purchase, clutch, turbo, injectors, P7100 fuel plate. What HP can I realistically expect, and could you help on the items left for me to purchase? I plan to tow an RV, about 10k. Would like to have everything compatible. Not a hot rod, a puller. Any other free, or bolt on's you could recommend? Thank You Ray
#2
It's hard to say what kinds of numbers you'll put down. There are a ton of variables like turbo choice, injector choice, tuning, etc. Don't forget to invest in gauges first, followed by a quality 4" or better turbo-back exhaust, especially if you're going to tow with the truck. You've got to keep those exhaust gas temperatures monitored and in check. Delivery valves are an option, you can advance the timing, FASS certainly couldn't hurt; the sky's the limit with a p-pump, guy. How much do you want to spend and how dedicated are you to test and tune?
The following users liked this post:
outdorfun (01-15-2014)
#5
60 over bore
It took 60 to get it clean. Don't really have to use this block, as I have another standard block that has also been through the machine shop. What I'm trying to do is match turbo, injectors and whatever else I need at the beginning so I don't have a redo. I do have 4 inch exhaust and forgot to mention that in the post. Doing it right the first time will save in the long run. I'm rebuiding the whole truck and it will last the rest of my years.
Thank you for your help
Thank you for your help
#6
#7
engine rebuild
Thanks 94 12 valve
I would like the truck to make about 450 HP. I will use it to tow an RV weighing about 10k
I will use the standard block. Sounds like really good advice. Didn't realize the 60 over would be soo thin. The one bored 60 over is an American made, industrial block out of a commercial piece of machinery, and was told when I bought it, it was much heavier than standard block. Was a rotary pumped engine. I'm really new at this, and believe me I'm writing it all down.
I would like the truck to make about 450 HP. I will use it to tow an RV weighing about 10k
I will use the standard block. Sounds like really good advice. Didn't realize the 60 over would be soo thin. The one bored 60 over is an American made, industrial block out of a commercial piece of machinery, and was told when I bought it, it was much heavier than standard block. Was a rotary pumped engine. I'm really new at this, and believe me I'm writing it all down.
#8
Here is what I would do
For turbos I would get either a he341 or he351 and run that over a s472/83/1.1t6. You don't really need twins to make your HP number but it will be a much nicer setup for towing and also allow room to grow if you want more later.
For your clutch get a nice street dual disk, you will not be able to speed shift or race but they shift pretty smooth and they last a very long time. Valiar or southbend makes a good dual disk. IMO don't waste your time with the dual disks and stock input shafts spend the extra money and get the 1 3/8" shaft.
For an injector 5x.014's is what I would choose
some other things to look into are a good fuel supply pump and a set of gauges.
For turbos I would get either a he341 or he351 and run that over a s472/83/1.1t6. You don't really need twins to make your HP number but it will be a much nicer setup for towing and also allow room to grow if you want more later.
For your clutch get a nice street dual disk, you will not be able to speed shift or race but they shift pretty smooth and they last a very long time. Valiar or southbend makes a good dual disk. IMO don't waste your time with the dual disks and stock input shafts spend the extra money and get the 1 3/8" shaft.
For an injector 5x.014's is what I would choose
some other things to look into are a good fuel supply pump and a set of gauges.
#9