Okay guys, I'm really sorry to do this, kind of embarrassing. I don't have a service manual and I cannot find a 6BT on TRK/Trl.com. I am in the middle of my first (and 2nd(and maybe 3rd)) major upgrade teardown of my beloved 96 Dodge Ram regular cab longbox 5spd.

Minor info: Project started with replacing head gasket, which I figure is pointless without using genuine Cummins gasket and ARP studs. Planned on holding off on the clutch for a month or two while paying off remodeling and other things. Decided I wanted a Twin Ram as long as everything was apart, still think its a good plan and the parts are partially installed. Didn't see a coolant temp sensor at the back of the head hidden under a couple relays and the wiring harness and broke it. $85 at O'Rielley's.

So as the head is coming off, a buddy of mine who is a foreman at a radiator shop says "hey, if you pull that CAC off I'll take it to my shop for a cleanup, pressure test, and repaint." So, I pull the CAC, and suck down the A/C, finish pulling the rad in stead of pulling the bumper. If I had known, I would have left A/C condensor in place and sealed because the CAC came off towards engine. Buddy calls up the next morning, says there are 19 holes in your CAC and I can't get enough air flow into it for a pressure test. He can't patch it, but he can get me a new one for little over what a recore would cost (insider discount under $400)

Well heck, looks like the engine is almost out, and we have a 20 ton electric crane, but no car lift big enough to put the truck up and pull the trans... So while we are in there, we may as well pull the engine and do the clutch. Crap, there goes another grande I was going to hold off on for a couple months. While pulling the engine, fiind that there is a large 2 wire connection going to the lift pump that is melted inside and completely fried, plus 1 wire pulled out of the pump... or the UFO thingy in front of the pump, anyway.

The good: got the engine pulled after removing the engine mounts seperately, clutch is FFFFFRRRRIIIIIIEEEEDDDD!!!DD DDD ! Oh, yeah, HG was the same between and around 5 and 6. Pretty sure I blew it on the way to sturgis in 07 when I had a 24' trailer on it and couldn't let that Ford 6.0 pass me, needle said 98 when I let off Funny I never lost any coolant running it all this time. The deck is flat as a pancake Turbo is still ROCKIN with no slop and the wastegate inop since I've owned it Hoping to call the owner of Air Dog whom I met this spring and see if I can exploit some more connections to get an Air Dog II 165 or another testbed worthy design for a discount(say a little prayer).

Other things on the to do list: pop test and partial rebuild on injectors, machine the rocker pedestals down, reseal timeing cover where KDP reared its ugly head, new tensioner pulley, replace oil seal on PS/vaccuum pump connection. Considering pulling exh manifold for porting...

Question 1: What does the temperature sensor at the back of the head report to and can I throw it away for a sensor in my gauge pod? The darned thing is $85 and the ECM is irrelevent, does it run the manifold heater? I know the ECM ultimately runs the manifold heater as it monitors vehicle speed and shuts it off once you hit a certain speed.

Question 2: What is the part on the front of the mechanical lift pump, what do the wires do, and do I need it?

Awe, gosh guys. I think that just about covers it for today. Thanks in advance for all the help!

 

WOW... u do have issues... ...

So the temp sensor at the back of the head goes to the factory guages, and i beleive the transmission picks up a temp sensor too for OD, think its supposed to be around 160*before it will let you hit OD.. dont quote there...

the wires on the lift pump might be for fuel heater i suppose ? ... not too sure .....

if you burned the HG between cylinders you might not have entered a coolant passage necessarily , pressure maybe in the coolant you would have seen some pressure- might wanna get it checked ..

Ceck on Ebay for the CAC also .. cheep and usable ...

 

Thanks for the reply... Manual trans so no prob there for OD... Didn't know I had a fuel heater but thats a good thing for me to do a search on! I'm still a little concerned about the manif heaters not working or working all of the time without that sensor. I would bet the CTS for the gauge is the $15 one that I didn't break, but I don't know.

 

The relays are on drivers side below the batterie for the heater and there is a sensor in the intake for the grid heater as well.... check to make sure your getting power through the relays and then if so check/change the sensor out ... should be the issue . if not keep the old one for spare....

 

Okay, so the wires going to the lift pump definitely are for a fuel heater, shouldn't need it since using good fuel. Also discovered a pre-filter in the assembly that I never knew about. 199k miles, I bet its plugged. The one on Youtube was caked. Intake sensor isn't broken, so hopefully that will run the grid heater. Thanks again!

(I should have searched for a fuel heater when I got home last night, would've slept better and saved myself THAT little embarrassment.

 

Sorry to jump in here. I had a lot of problems with the fuel heater found in our trucks. Stupid (useless) little leak point.
I did a fuel heater delete thread on another site.
As this is my first day (first post also) here & I do not want to step on any proverbial toes. I don't want to post a link to another site here.
I guess just let me know if anyone is even interested...?
D.D.

 

Thanks D.D., there won't be any problems getting rid of this little gem. Ordered the gauge temp sensor used for 20 bucks off of e bay, just so i won't have to stare at another dead gauge.

 

the temp sensor in your intake manifold is what runs the grid heater, the coolant temp out of the head just goes into the factory gauges. The wires on the lift pump are either for the fuel heater or your water in fuel sensor.

 

W.I.F. light wires are the two coming out of the bottom of the fuel filter.
DD

 

Thats what I would have figured