im gonna agree with timing, I would have it verified and set to around stock till u get the other issues resolved. then play with only 1 thing at a time ..... easy to diag that way

 

If I'm alrighty going to dig in the pump for timing, could I just set it to 15 to get a little extra power. Stock is 13.5 I believe, and you don't want to go to 16 without head studs.

 

did you check for boost leaks?

 

i revised my reply... i will sleep better with this one.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! the thrust in the charger you describe is most likely your problem. in and out play is thrust side to side is just the space for the oil to go when the truck is running. if your charger has thrusted over and over again due to high drive pressures. (exhaust side has more PSI than the compressor side) it has wore the thrust bearing. chances are friction is much higher @ the bearing and thus slowing the shafts rotation. it will be slower to come to boost and make lower boost numbers which will make engine temps run hotter especially when you want to go fast, and you will see a power loss like you describe because of the loss of air. IF.... your turbo goes in and out, take it off and have it rebuilt. it WILL fail and when it does you risk more than just a turbo. IDK what clicks are on the pump? (turns of the gov spring nuts?) did the idle problem come right after you messed with them. to tight and you screw with idle quality. and a big rpm drop when you put the truck into gear. dont F with timing right now if it were lack of fuel it wouldnt be running so warm. so i instantly stray away from fuel OTHER than a possible nozzle but if this were the case you would have white smoke too. so ide mark that off the list. get your trusty heat lazer out and check each cylinder @ idle. see if you have 1 that is way off. I dont think you will but you can check.

check into your turbo.

 

I can say that Turbo her does have a good point and a valid idea, pull the exhaust off the turbo and get to checking things out on that end...
and I wouldnt do anything more that stock timing until you have the heat issue and the studs done ... remember , houses are built from the foundation up ... dont try to start at the roof ...

 

I've started from the roof before, on a sbc, never a good idea. Ok, so when I wiggle the wheel it really seems nearly noticeable, just enough to detect that it moves at all, should there be any play at all?

Just to recap: It has 4kgs (I believe 6.5 turns on both springs) right after I installed them it wouldn't idle without being on the peddle, but I took it to a diesel shop in my area who said it just needed the idle adjusted to compensate for the springs and it ran great after that, no problems. Boost elbow at 35psi, 0# plate, and 4 clicks on the pump.

The problem started occuring after heavy on and off acceleration and I did notice the turbo "whipple" increased in frequency after the problem. On the highway when it upshifts it didn't used to but now it will "whup-whup-whupwhupwhupa" before it accelerates, I probably should have mentioned that . And the problem started like I said after "merging and exiting" the highway a lot because of a wrong turn so heavy on and off acceleration. The thing is, there isn't necessarily more black smoke as the egt's rise when the truck is moving alrady. As soon as the TC locks up, or from a rolling start, IT accelerates and the egt's rise w/ out having excessive black smoke necessarily.

 

..

 

sounds more like your gate is stuck ..... need to verify its moving ...

 

Some wise advice here for you to be ignoring it.....

 

Alll he needs to do is verify the wastegate movement ... a lot easier if thats whats wrong rather than spending a bunch of money and wasting time ... his latest post is indicitive of a stuck or non-actuating wastegate......

And yes you are giving great advise no doubt there my friend ... no toe stompin here