my cummins build
 

im going to be starting a cummins swap in the near future. the truck i am converting is a 2000 dodge 4x4 1/2 ton. i have a 1994 4x4 c&c truck that is next to junk besides the running gear. i am taking any advice or pointers i can take along the way. im sure i will run into issues along the swap...... so far my mods are 4k gov springs and 60#valve springs. my starting question is the wireing will all the under hood wireing from the 94 plug place to the 2000 under hood wireing or whats the ideas there thanks guys

Heres the project (if you need any parts for a 1/2 ton hit me up all the running gear is coming out of this truck)


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Its a pretty straight forward swap, lots of pics along the way please

i plan on posting the complete build here. im remodeling my house right now so toys are on hold for a bit but it will be done in the new future.:c:

hey guys another question. will the flywheel from the 6.7 cummins fit the 12v? im planning on putting my g56 behind my 12v. what my plan is to put the complete clutch setup for the g56 behing the 12v. what you guys think?

Like as in the stock g56 clutch?

i will be running a sb dual disk from an 08 cummins with the g56.

this sounds cool, im buying 3 cummins soon and gonna stuff one of them into a durango for my baby girl, i got 4 more years till she drives so better get started soon
I may just have to start a thread on this build also
first i gotta find a worthy 98-01 durango, i have a buddy at grange who can hook me up with a salvage

Ya forsure post your build and lots of pics along the way

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Anyone know??

is the frame in a 1/2 ton the same as a 3/4 or 1 ton truck?

as far as a g56 and flywheel fitting up to a 5.9..... in essence a 6.7 is a 5.9 just bumped up in displacement to make up for the crap the Govt made the big 3 stuff on their oil burners to make them more eco friendly, im almost 100% sure a g56 will fit up just fine although most of the memories I have of a g56 are painful.. shes a big pig and a pain to rebuild mostly because shes a pig
I found a hood fire salvage 07 ram the other day I almost purchased for 1200 , had a 6.7 burned up in it but I bet the block was ok and I have a good pcm and harness on my bench... but ide rather have a 12v p pumped tbh

the frame alost looks exactly like my dad 00 cummins. im going to run the 1ton axles i have and the 1/2ton leaf springs on the and use the 1ton on front is my plan anyways

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the complete truck for 1200??

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well got the gasser out. i know this is a slow go but im in the middle of remodeling my house still. have to keep the wife happy so i can keep my projects goin. i know you guys understand that.

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what you guys thing head gasket seaping the pic is the front pasenger side of the head/ block



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this is my ht3b its the start to my compound setup i am going to build for this truck

. The motor mounts mount up exactly no difference. Pedals swapped over exactly I'm still in the middle of this right now but I got the engine set into place today and it looks like a beauty. I haven't changed the axles or springs yet. But surprisingly the front is not sagging anymore with the 1/2 ton springs. I thought it would drive them into the ground. So I thought about running the 1/2 ton springs on top of the 1 ton axles. Just to see how the ride quality is and how long they will last before the collapse. I'm building the truck as just a hobby/toy. I can tow with my 08 so this truck won't be tow pig. everything so far has been a bolt and go deal. :c:

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I will post the pic later my phone is to cool and won't do it

Finally got another chance to tinker got the radiator inner cooler and all the hoses/ piping hooked up. Hoping for a decent wkd will start swapping axles and get this thing on the road.

nice.... ur last pic dosent work...

Well guys got it fired up and made the first pass around the yard. Still got some minor tinkering to finish up. I guess I have some catching up to do for you guys. I end up using the factory tank and sending unit from the 1500. I just cut the ground wire to the factory fuel pump. I made my own stainless draw straw to feed the fass150. Also on the fueling I installed tork technology's adjustable over flow valve. I didn't get to really go hammer on it but it seems to idle way more smoothly now. Also I had a horrible miss in my higher rpm it seems to be solved now. I will no for sure when I get it on the street. I'm still working out wiring issues. Such as alternator I have it figured out now but i have decided to run an external regulator to do away with the head ache. I'm still working on making the tach,oil psi , and temp. Which shouldn't be bad my plan is to install the gasser temp and oil psi sensors just use brass fittings to make them work

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Also forgot to mention I had a drive line laying around that was almost perfect for the 1/2 ton axles. I needed up building an Adapter to make the bolt pattern correct. So we will see how quick I can explode the gasser axles. Didn't want to but I tried to pretty much give them Way and couldn't. So the way I'm looking at it is don't fix whata not broke haha. :up: also even all tcase linkage mounted up from the gasser to the current setup.

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Can anyone tell me how to wire up the tach? if anyone has ever messed with it. I know others have done similar swaps. But I have searched and can't find what color the tach wires are that I need to tap into. Thanks guys

Well guys I have finally got to drive this truck. It drives great with no issues. Only problems I have now is right taillight stays on. The left tail light stays on really dim. And the dome light by the 3rd brake light stays on. And I thought I had the fuel shut off wired right but did it with out looking at a diagram and over heated the switch.

that leak could be 1 of 2 things .. t-stat leak or a HG .. mine leaks there too and its a HG leak ... :argh:

Yep guess that means we both have some luck ha ha (bad luck):c:

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Well I figured out the reason for the cargo light and the tail lights staying on. The dang mice are to blame pulled the 3 red brake light out and mice had chewed the costing of the wires behind the fixture. So I cut the wires down low and folded the back and taped them off until I can fix it right. Also I couldn't get the factory voltage regulator to function. So instead of dealing with the head ache I installed an external regulator. Works great except when I rev it up the lights get brighter. Does anyone have any input there. Thanks a lot for suggestions. :c:

Still working out a few kinks with it. I'm daily driving it now. Still on all the half ton suspension. I'm in the process of hooking up fuel psi gauge. I got a marshal liquid filled 60psi gauge from eBay for $18. I pulled the CIG lighter out and that's where I mounted it. I will post a few pictures:tu:

For some reason it won't let me post a pic of the truck I will try again later

Like the fuel gauge location ... Might just have to copy and paste that in my truck ...:tu:

Thanks. Here is the gauge I used http://www.ebay.com/itm/231053968512...84.m1497.l2649. I decided something might as well go in the hole that is useful. :c:

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Believe it or not the factory front drive shaft bolted right into place. So now I have the 4wd working. Yep something is bound to break now. Hahaha:pca1:

Well so far everything is going good except the clutch. The 1/2 ton axles are actually holding up. And I drive this truck like it's yours hahahahaha. 5th gear but fell off. And the clutch is toast. So ibthink this wkd I'm installing a g56 and dd clutch

LOL..... Nice !!!!

But the axles don't last with a good clutch getting all the torque

Right ... Once they get hooked, they will most likely break ... Why not put in a 70 just for assurance that you won't be stranded on a dark road somewhere ...??

I have the complete 1ton axles from the c&c truck I parted. I tried to sell the 1/2 ton axles couldn't get rid of them. So I got to thinking. Why fix something that's not broken. Hahaha. I couldn't just scrap good axles but I can junk ones. That's pretty much the reason. Its 4x4. So. Surely I can't get lucky enough to break them both at the same time. But if I do I sure hope its a good video. :c: l o l

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Installing dual disk and g56 mounted the 241dhd. So far everything. Is going smooth. But the brakes are fixing to be put on to fan drive shafts and crossmember

Got the trans mated to the motor. Building cross member and drive lines tomorrow

I hear ya , lotts of fun ....

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Working on the crossemember a little bit

[QUOTE=coors_man_2005:Working on the crossemember a little bit[/QUOTE]

:argh::argh:.... i see your problem ...... you need a bigger Friggen Hammer Silly :tttt:..:tu:

Attachment 29314. Here's the finished product of the cross member for the g56. Pretty dang easy to build :tu:

Modify I should say I guess

Nice, Shoot some rubberized undercoating on it and be really happy !!!

Well boys this budget build is going pretty good. The g56 swap. Went great its pretty much as easy a clutch swap. And just so everyone knows I am running factory hydro's. On a south bend dual disk clutch. Yes it Is a stiff pedal. But works like stock. We will see how far it will go. I have read a few threads where the push rod for the clutch is to long or short. Can't remember which way it was. But everything from The 4500 is bolted to the g56 with no issues. The 4500 adapter plate was used as well. Also I played the fley wheels side by side. The ring gears mesh up perfect. So the g56. Complete clutch will work perfect with no spacers of anything of that nature. Questions. Ask away. It has been fun:c::tttt:

what you doing with the 4500 ?? 4x4 or 2wd ?