Hey guys, I've been lurking the forum reading and reading for a couple years. Just never post stuff up.

I am disliking how late this turbo spools. 5 psi @ 1800 but once it hits 2000 it snaps to 35 psi and all hell breaks loose. That is at WOT. Crusing @ 65-70 mph I have 1-2 psi.

From a dead stop, it will take 4-5 seconds before it really builds boost. Its like a light switch. (afc spring?) Bog, smoke and then wheee!!! I want the wheeee!!! a little sooner!

As is, I don't think I could get a good sized trailer load to move. It would be horrible to tow with.

The truck is an auto with a single disk and VB from BD(I'll see how long that lasts).
4k gsk
SDX 5x.014
100 plate 3/4 forward
afc full forward
longer stiffer spring from PDR tightended up pretty good. When it lights it still fogs...

Been tweeking the pre-boost screw for the last week. Turned it probably 40 times. 1/8 turn at a time. I can go from no smoke and no power at all, to coal locomotive.

Either I am skipping over the sweet spot or I need more fuel.

Do I need delivery valves?

Would an exhaust manifold help even if only by a couple hundred RPMs?

Exhaust blankets?

oh yeah, running stock timing right now but want to bump it up. That should make spool up even slower?

Also, in a 0-60 run, I can hit 1600 pretty eazy. WTF?

 

have you tried sliding the afc housing back some and tuning on the afc then? with it boging down it sounds like you have too much fuel too early. take your afc off and bench tune it with compressed air and see what it actually takes to get to full travel. does it still have the stock spring in it? you probably do need some more timing something in the 16* range timing dosnt always hurt spool time. do you have a lockup switch on the TC? if not then not loading the engine enough will also keep it from spooling also. if you have 3.55 gears with those 33" tires that really dosnt help either. if you do add more fuel i would do it with injectors or with 181 DVs dont go with some big DVs that will just make even more heat. is the gate set at 35 psi? more air would help get it up in the 40-45psi range that will cool off the WOT egts some.

 

Anymore insight into this? I'm looking at the same turbo, and have a lot of the same mods, but manual tranny... Just needs tuning/tweaking or some different hard parts? I'm in the collecting phase on my build.

 

I agree on increasing the boost to 45+ psi to keep the EGT's in check and I'd slide the plate back some and then slide the AFC housing back to stock or even farther back and then re-tune the starwheel for low boost fueling.

it is easy to put everything back in the "stock position" and tune the bottom end and THEN start slowly adding the fuel with the plate and AFC housing positioning for top end.

when i was running an HTT 64/71/14 single in the turbo's box stock configuration i could see 1600+ on the pyro @ 35psi. eventually I worked it up to 52psi and 1250* max on a sustained run..... just takes some time and playing around with it....

 

Good to know, I know with the manual it's a little easier to feel the turbo spooling up, and not just make clouds of smoke.... Thanks!

 

he has good sticks, I had marine 370's that are a hair smaller than what he has and mine were the wrong spray pattern. with proper injectors they should run cleaner and spool better than what I had.

 

I've got 5x.012's on the way, steed speed manifold, 18* timing, water/meth etc...

 

K, update. I have only had this turbo on for just over a week. Maybe I was too used to lighting the stock turbo with those 5x14s. It had throttle response like a gasser.

I don't think I am being very nice to the truck tweeking on the afc. Lots of stopping and then getting in and mashing the gas. Getting great mileage. haha Poor trans....

Before I put the turbo on, I had the plate maybe a quarter of the way from being full back trying to keep things in check. I figured more air needs more fuel and slid the plate ahead. Shouldnt have moved it so far. About halfway is better. Dunno how guys run plateless, this thing still gets hot on the top end. I wouldnt feel comfy holding WOT for more than a quarter mile and even then I cringe when I look at the guage pegged.

More screwing with the pre-boost screw is getting me 5-7 psi at 1600 and it takes off at 1800 or so. Its getting better. Maybe thats as good as it gets for now.

What I dont like is when it finally starts to make boost, it belts out a big cloud of smoke that kinda clears up but will still haze pretty good at WOT in OD. I think the boost is just overpowering the afc spring. It is a longer stronger spring and is tightened up pretty good. Its still allows full rack travel at too low of boost levels, contributing to the light switch feeling of the powerband.

For now, Im gonna advance the timing.... 15 -16 degrees. See how that goes. Im eyeing up a stainless exhaust manifold for the next purchase. Hope that helps get it to spool sooner.

As for upping the boost.... Ive seen compressor maps that have 35 psi right in the middle of the efficency range. More boost is more drive pressure and more heat... or what. I did get it with the upgraded thrust bearing so I can be have a little peace of mind pushing it.

I tell ya what though.... when she lights... Its good!

Side note... Its called a screaming eagle. Terrible name. At an idle, there is no turbo sound. None. I liked the sound of the stocker coming out the 5 inch. You knew it was there. Even when its under full boost its way quieter than the stocker. Maybe its cuz it was being pushed to 40 psi.

Also side note... install was a breeze. Hardest part was getting the downpipe to meet up with the rest of the exhaust. A little clocking to match the stocker, a bit of turn to the pipe going to the intercooler, shortened the boot that goes on the outlet of the turbo, and then some plumbing of the wastgate line over to the afc line. My stocker had the wastgate line going into the pressure side of the compressor. No big deal.

I still miss the low end boost of the stocker. If you got $$, go twins!!

Ill update here as I add parts and tune it in more.

 

I think you need to look at that compressor map again. 35 psi is only 3.2 p/r that charger is still in the .70 range at 4.2 p/r or 47psi. Without drive pressure you dont get boost. What is important is keeping boost and drive as close to 1:1 as you can.

I would replace the can gate and put a spring gate on it and tune the gate some.

Sent with a Droid RAZR in one hand and 14,000 volts in the other.

 

how tight is your torque converter?