Cleaning Your DPF
#21
09-02-2008, 09:46 AM
I live in Very Smalltown, Texas so I don't think the inspection will include them plugging in to the diagnostic port but I know some guys who do the inspections around here so I will ask them before I rip anything out. On my past 2 trucks, I have cut the catalyst out when I re-did my exhaust. This time, I think I will leave the catalyst no matter what I do, then a Cat Back type exhaust would allow me to remove the DPF and replace it with just a straight 4" pipe while saving the DPF and putting it back on if needed for inspection or warranty work. In any event the temperature sensor and the pressure sensors will have to be stored and protected while under the truck and not plugged in if the DPF is removed. I think the DPF itself has at least 2 sensor taps. This is a hell of a problem to have with a brand new vehicle.
#22
09-02-2008, 05:37 PM
Banned
SkyJack is right, ask around before you commit to one station for testing. The place I use charges $45- they get your registration information, put it on the dyno, floor it for a few seconds, park it outside, ask for their money and give you the papers. Yes, they run a slightly shady operation but I don't hesitate to bring my modified diesels to them first because they don't ask questions and they don't snoop around with mirrors. 
#23
09-15-2008, 11:46 PM
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It happened to me today
Today i spent the day waiting for the dodge dealership to change my DPF for the first time, on the way home 20 miles from the dealership, it started to chuck and pulse. I got home shut the truck off and went back out to try it again a few hours later. It was worse! No power, still pulsating. I use my truck hard, hauling cattle all over Southern Idaho. I never let it idle and push my truck as often as possible. The mileage was decent b4 all of the problems. Im looking for any information on alternative exaust systems, please! Im in a bit of a panic!
#24
09-16-2008, 12:38 PM
It is not your DPF, it is your NOx part of the exhaust system that is clugged. After the turbo, the first CONE shape is the NOx and then after that the other cone shape which is bigger than the first one is the DPF.
If I am not mistaken, you can handle a few tools. So, you should be able to do the follwoing.
What you need to do is, first disconnect the NOx. There are three bolts on each end. When you hammer the bolts out, watch out not messing the tips, otherwise the nuts will not go there.
Here is what I did; I welded few points on the end of a flat bolt that was about 10 inches long, placed the dots around these bolts after I took the nuts out and hit the end with a 3 pounder to drive the NOx bolts out. I did the point welding so the points do not allow the bolt to slip. I was alone doing this, so I had to use my transmission jack to hold the NOx in place. Then, vaccume the hell out of it with a shop vaccume from both ends. Put the vaccum nozell inside contacting the ceramic inside of it. After I vaccume the hell out of it, then I use my air hose with 175 PSI to blow through the fine holes in there. It is kind of a messy job if your shop vaccume does not have enough power. Blowing the soot out should get done outside your garage or the shop you are working from.
Then I placed the NOx back on and drove for 50 miles on highway, putting my auto bottom shifter on 5th geer and driving at 3000 RPM.
After that I zeroed my MPG indicator over head and went for a 35 mile on I-95. At 75 MPH I was getting 22 MPG. That means everything there was real clean and it was not doing any regen.
By mid October Smarty should come out. I recommend you do not do anything to your exhaust system till we get to test this 6.7L with Smarty installed.
If I am not mistaken, you can handle a few tools. So, you should be able to do the follwoing.
What you need to do is, first disconnect the NOx. There are three bolts on each end. When you hammer the bolts out, watch out not messing the tips, otherwise the nuts will not go there.
Here is what I did; I welded few points on the end of a flat bolt that was about 10 inches long, placed the dots around these bolts after I took the nuts out and hit the end with a 3 pounder to drive the NOx bolts out. I did the point welding so the points do not allow the bolt to slip. I was alone doing this, so I had to use my transmission jack to hold the NOx in place. Then, vaccume the hell out of it with a shop vaccume from both ends. Put the vaccum nozell inside contacting the ceramic inside of it. After I vaccume the hell out of it, then I use my air hose with 175 PSI to blow through the fine holes in there. It is kind of a messy job if your shop vaccume does not have enough power. Blowing the soot out should get done outside your garage or the shop you are working from.
Then I placed the NOx back on and drove for 50 miles on highway, putting my auto bottom shifter on 5th geer and driving at 3000 RPM.
After that I zeroed my MPG indicator over head and went for a 35 mile on I-95. At 75 MPH I was getting 22 MPG. That means everything there was real clean and it was not doing any regen.
By mid October Smarty should come out. I recommend you do not do anything to your exhaust system till we get to test this 6.7L with Smarty installed.
#25
09-30-2008, 12:00 AM
Am I missing something on my pickup. or did the early 6.7's not show a percentage pulged on the over head deal ?..when mine messe's up it just shows the yellow engine lite under the speedo
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
I hear people talk about it showing 70% or 80%.. on the (overhead Information deal) when the DPF is sooting up. My pickup dosen't show anything their. I just get the yellow engine light down by the speedo.. Is it because mine was an early model ? (6.7)Or am I just to stupid to find it it's done it enough time I'm pretty sure I would have seen it by now...Thanks
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
I hear people talk about it showing 70% or 80%.. on the (overhead Information deal) when the DPF is sooting up. My pickup dosen't show anything their. I just get the yellow engine light down by the speedo.. Is it because mine was an early model ? (6.7)Or am I just to stupid to find it it's done it enough time I'm pretty sure I would have seen it by now...Thanks
Last edited by Sluggo; 09-30-2008 at 12:00 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#27
10-14-2008, 10:15 PM
Diesel Enthusiast
From the Cummins news letter
Operating Tips For The Diesel Particulate Filter On
Cummins 6.7-Liter Turbo Diesel.
Dodge Ram Heavy Duty pickups equipped with the 6.7-liter Cummins Turbo Diesel offer more horsepower and torque than ever before. They’re also the first and only diesel pickups on the market to meet 2010 EPA emissions requirements. To achieve these unprecedented levels of cleanliness, the 6.7-liter Cummins Turbo Diesel incorporates a device known as a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) in the exhaust system.
What Is A DPF And How Does It Work?
The diesel particulate filter captures particulate matter that is a normal byproduct of the combustion process as it passes through the exhaust system.
As you run your Dodge Ram Turbo Diesel, sensors in the DPF measure the amount of particulate matter that is accumulating in the filter and send that data to the Electronic Control Module (ECM), the computer that controls the engine and aftertreatment.
Periodically the ECM will start a self-cleaning process called regeneration that raises temperatures in the DPF and oxidizes the particulate matter. This process is similar to the operation of a self-cleaning oven, releasing only harmless gases into the atmosphere.
Regeneration is virtually undetectable to the driver. Under normal driving conditions, no action is needed to start the process, and there is no impact on pulling power, acceleration or responsiveness of the engine.
What Do I Need To Do To Clean The DPF?
Under normal operating conditions, you don’t need to do anything. However, if you do a lot of in-city driving at lower speeds or extended idling, your engine may not be working hard enough for the self-cleaning process to take place (we’re talking about hours of idling, not just minutes). If this happens, particulate matter will accumulate within the filter. If it reaches an 80% level, you will see an alert in the information center of your truck’s overhead console. This is not dangerous, but it does tell you that the engine needs to be given a little more “exercise” which will correct the situation.
To start the self-cleaning process, all you have to do is drive your Dodge Ram at 50 mph or so for a short while. Typically, about 45 minutes is all it takes for the system to clean itself, and a message in the overhead console will tell you when the self-cleaning is completed.
Do I Need To Take Action Immediately?
It takes a number of days to go from 80% to entirely filling up the DPF, and it won’t affect performance of the engine or the DPF, so it’s not something that has to be done immediately.
However, if the DPF exceeds 99% of capacity before a regeneration takes place, you could cause permanent damage to the filter. Again, an alert in your truck’s information center will appear as you reach this threshold. Simultaneously, power and torque will be reduced so that you can drive your vehicle to an authorized Dodge dealer for service without causing irreparable harm to the filter. However, if you choose to ignore these warning signals and continue to drive for an extended period of time, the filter will be ruined and need to be replaced in order to restore full power and torque to your truck.
A Cleaner Tomorrow Starts Today.
Driving a Dodge Ram Turbo Diesel means you are doing something good for the environment by reducing emissions. Take good care of it, and it will take good care of you for years to come.
Operating Tips For The Diesel Particulate Filter On
Cummins 6.7-Liter Turbo Diesel.
Dodge Ram Heavy Duty pickups equipped with the 6.7-liter Cummins Turbo Diesel offer more horsepower and torque than ever before. They’re also the first and only diesel pickups on the market to meet 2010 EPA emissions requirements. To achieve these unprecedented levels of cleanliness, the 6.7-liter Cummins Turbo Diesel incorporates a device known as a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) in the exhaust system.
What Is A DPF And How Does It Work?
The diesel particulate filter captures particulate matter that is a normal byproduct of the combustion process as it passes through the exhaust system.
As you run your Dodge Ram Turbo Diesel, sensors in the DPF measure the amount of particulate matter that is accumulating in the filter and send that data to the Electronic Control Module (ECM), the computer that controls the engine and aftertreatment.
Periodically the ECM will start a self-cleaning process called regeneration that raises temperatures in the DPF and oxidizes the particulate matter. This process is similar to the operation of a self-cleaning oven, releasing only harmless gases into the atmosphere.
Regeneration is virtually undetectable to the driver. Under normal driving conditions, no action is needed to start the process, and there is no impact on pulling power, acceleration or responsiveness of the engine.
What Do I Need To Do To Clean The DPF?
Under normal operating conditions, you don’t need to do anything. However, if you do a lot of in-city driving at lower speeds or extended idling, your engine may not be working hard enough for the self-cleaning process to take place (we’re talking about hours of idling, not just minutes). If this happens, particulate matter will accumulate within the filter. If it reaches an 80% level, you will see an alert in the information center of your truck’s overhead console. This is not dangerous, but it does tell you that the engine needs to be given a little more “exercise” which will correct the situation.
To start the self-cleaning process, all you have to do is drive your Dodge Ram at 50 mph or so for a short while. Typically, about 45 minutes is all it takes for the system to clean itself, and a message in the overhead console will tell you when the self-cleaning is completed.
Do I Need To Take Action Immediately?
It takes a number of days to go from 80% to entirely filling up the DPF, and it won’t affect performance of the engine or the DPF, so it’s not something that has to be done immediately.
However, if the DPF exceeds 99% of capacity before a regeneration takes place, you could cause permanent damage to the filter. Again, an alert in your truck’s information center will appear as you reach this threshold. Simultaneously, power and torque will be reduced so that you can drive your vehicle to an authorized Dodge dealer for service without causing irreparable harm to the filter. However, if you choose to ignore these warning signals and continue to drive for an extended period of time, the filter will be ruined and need to be replaced in order to restore full power and torque to your truck.
A Cleaner Tomorrow Starts Today.
Driving a Dodge Ram Turbo Diesel means you are doing something good for the environment by reducing emissions. Take good care of it, and it will take good care of you for years to come.
#30
07-24-2009, 05:00 PM
The company I work for has an 07 3500 with the 6.7L and an 08 4500 with the 6.7L. We have had nothing but problems with both of these trucks. The 07 3500 has had the entire exhaust system replaced with 5" pipe from the turbo all the way to the back, eliminating the converter/DPF. We installed a Smarty program and the truck gained 5 mpg and more power. The 4500 has been to the dealership 7 times 
regarding the DPF issue and has had the cat converter replaced twice. The 4500 only has 37,000 miles on it. We are looking into the lemon law so we can get out of the lease on it. I feel for all of you and regard the DPF as a pile of crap that is costing Chrysler (and customers) more money than it is worth.
regarding the DPF issue and has had the cat converter replaced twice. The 4500 only has 37,000 miles on it. We are looking into the lemon law so we can get out of the lease on it. I feel for all of you and regard the DPF as a pile of crap that is costing Chrysler (and customers) more money than it is worth.
