i've seen a vid from airaid that is also an oil filter. they took a panel filter, over oiled it and weighed it. then ran at 1000 cfm for a few hours (if i remember right) and it did not lose any oil. none on the backside of the filter and still weighed the same. as stated above dealers are quick to blame aftermarket parts because warranty companys only pay a certain amount for labor, irregardless of the fixed shop hourly rate.

 

Dry filters are an easy way to avoid that all together (whether it's a problem or not).

I refuse to run a K&N on my truck, because I've seen what they did to my race quads motors. I can't imagine what it's like on a boosted application. That's just my personal experience.

 

Exactly

 

That was the exact filter test I was going to cite!! I run a BHAF on mine and I just recently installed a much larger element. I went to a lot of work to move the battery over to the other side to make room for it. So far I haven't seen a difference. I haven't towed yet (Well, not anything of any weight to it!) so I don't know if it will drop EGTs yet.
I have done a couple of oil analysis while running the conventional BHAF and I am impressed at how well it keeps the dirt out of my engine!! If you doubt the referenced filter test then just pull the air hose off the inlet of your turbo. Wipe around inside the wheel of the turbo and see what kind of dirt you find there. It will scare you!!

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Oh,
Be very careful what you use to clean sensors!! Carb cleaner and similar WILL damage them in about 30 seconds. If you have to use one of those type cleaners: Spray it down quickly to clean it, immediately spray it down with rubbing alcohol to remove the cleaner, and immediately blow it dry with air. This proceedure should keep from damaging your expensive sensor. It is really just best to use the sensor cleaner that is made for sensors so you don't run the risk of ruining them.