This is a supporting mod to installing an intake horn on your truck.
Ideally, this should be done at the same time as the intake horn.
Financial logistics had me installing this after the intake horn.






First, you will want to disconnect the Negative leads of both batteries.





Next, if you plan on removing the wiring from the solenoid (Good Idea) remove your torque tube to give you some wrench swinging room.





Remove the lead off the positive terminal of the battery (Shown in pic with large “A” on it.) Then remove the wire from the solenoid.









Next, remove the wire on the other large terminal of the solenoid. This wire goes around the front of the engine to the driver’s side, and to the Grid Heater.





Cut zip tie, and using screwdriver pry remaining clips (3) open to release wire.

 

Next, loosen intake clamp from Intercooler, remove bolt for Oil dipstick, remove wiring bolt from back of intake, then remove bolts holding intake.









Remove intake from Engine carefully. Remove upper gasket carefully, and keep it oriented as to how it goes on. I laid it on the valve cover, so I could put it back like it came off. Remove Grid Heater (You may be able to preserve the gaskets).






In a side-by-side comparison, you can see the gains in flow; take special note the gains extend past just removing the grid from a stock piece. This was a well thought out piece. Take note of inside corners protruding into the path of airflow, and bolts on the grounded side.






Install the Heater Grid Delete to the engine. Here you will also notice that the piece matches the gasket and manifold flange well.

 

Begin re-installation of manifold. Place horn inside of Intercooler hose first. To avoid possible damage to gasket, I recommend partially tightening the intake to the manifold before tightening or re-installing anything else.



Next tighten intercooler hose, re-install wiring to back of manifold, and re-install Dip Stick tube. Go back and final snug the manifold bolts, reconnect the battery negatives, and you are done!


NOTE: It has come to my attention that some models (Like the 2003) may have more than one solenoid, or not be similar to what is explained and shown here. If this is the case, trace the wiring back starting from the Grid heater, and just remove the wire(s) from the Grid heater to the Solenoid(s).

 

What exactly does this do?

 

less air restriction, even though i dont think its really that big of an improvement, and also unless you live somewhere it stays warm i wouldnt do this because this is what helps your cold weather starting

 

Ok thanks I am relatively new diesels so i'm tryin to expand my knowledge.

 

yeah I'd keep your grid heater in place if you live like in montana like me because it's -16F here today and i wouldn't want to try starting it with out it

 

I wouldn't think many people should do this mod. Grid heaters work wonders and without them you are going get into trouble since the Cummins has no glow plugs...

 

Person can remove it during the summer and part of the fall months. But your under the hood messing with it twice a year.


BTW, #1 injector line does rub the block, even if you try and move the line around. Just isn't enough room. Also, don't remove the smaller wire from the relay, end up setting a voltage drop not seen at air heater relay, or something like that.

 

If anyone in Canada does it, it's probably just for the warmer seasons...

I have absolutely no problem with this mod year round in the Desert Southwest.