Auto Hubs Not Working
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Start from the top and go down the list. Pump working? then solenoid ( hit the 4x4 switch and stick your tongue on the hub lines. No vacuum? switch is bad). Hoses ? No cracks? Still connected to the hubs? Hub fitting not plugged up? If none of those it would be the hub seals. Just ordered all mine. Cost $120 with new needle bearings and studs.
#6
If you decide to get a set of manual locking hubs, that's fine but you still need to determine what the problem is with the vacuum system.
If the problem is somewhere in the vacuum lines, PVH valve, vacuum pump or hub vacuum lines, you can simply eliminate the problem by capping off the vacuum lines at the PVH solenoid and at the wheel hubs.
If the problem is due to a worn or damaged vacuum hub seal, your problems may have only begun. Ignoring a bad seal on the main bearing hub will allow moisture and dirt to enter the hub and begin to destroy the needle bearing and eventually the main hub bearings. It will not take long after the needle bearing begins to rust to take out your stub axle.
If you start adding up the cost of a new main hub, hub bolts, stub axle, labor to press the new u-joint on, new diff housing dust seal from pulling the axle, new vacuum hub seal and dust seal and labor to install the vacuum seal; a hand vacuum pump to diagnose the problem begins to look pretty inexpensive.
I have always tried to live by the rule that you should repair things when you first notice a problem. If you wait until it breaks, it's going to cost you 5 times more.
If the problem is somewhere in the vacuum lines, PVH valve, vacuum pump or hub vacuum lines, you can simply eliminate the problem by capping off the vacuum lines at the PVH solenoid and at the wheel hubs.
If the problem is due to a worn or damaged vacuum hub seal, your problems may have only begun. Ignoring a bad seal on the main bearing hub will allow moisture and dirt to enter the hub and begin to destroy the needle bearing and eventually the main hub bearings. It will not take long after the needle bearing begins to rust to take out your stub axle.
If you start adding up the cost of a new main hub, hub bolts, stub axle, labor to press the new u-joint on, new diff housing dust seal from pulling the axle, new vacuum hub seal and dust seal and labor to install the vacuum seal; a hand vacuum pump to diagnose the problem begins to look pretty inexpensive.
I have always tried to live by the rule that you should repair things when you first notice a problem. If you wait until it breaks, it's going to cost you 5 times more.
#7
I agree with guzzle about finding the problem first then go from there. I personally DO NOT like any auto locking hub. They are for the soccer moms wanting 4X4. Get a set of the Warn hubs and install kit if you need it. For around $250.00 you will have hubs that you know are locked in. My dad always said you know when you will need 4X4, so just lock the hubs before you leave the house if it has snowed or lock them as you start down that muddy field, etc. Just my 2 pennies worth.
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