cold start problems - Page 2

thepodpiper · #16 11-02-2008, 08:43 PM

sirthomas, don't the glow plugs have a sensor that tells them how long to stay on? I only have a problem when the temps get around low 40's. I use rotella 15w 40. The truck starts just fine when the temps are warmer, actually it starts imediately, never a hesitation (knock on wood).

Dale -

Benjamin · #17 11-02-2008, 08:49 PM

well knowing now that that relay is bad i'd replace that. it would also be a good time to replace the glow plugs. i did a writeup on how to replace the injectors and glowplugs here a few weeks ago. skip all the injector talk on mine and go to the glowplug replacement. if you have never done it before it'll prolly take you ~ 2-3 hours. if you know how to turn a wrench good then maybe 1-2 hours. i could prolly get all 8 replaced in an hour or so. it would be a good time to inspect the valve cover gaskets and under valve cover harnesses. if the harness shorted out on a rocker arm or a pushrod it'll burn up the relay (solenoid) quickly...

hope this helps 94-03 Injector and Glow Plug Removal And Replacement -

thepodpiper · #18 11-02-2008, 09:11 PM

Benjamin, Nice right up but do I really need to get into changing the glow plugs if the relay fixes the problem?

Dale -

Benjamin · #19 11-02-2008, 09:13 PM

a shorted out glowplug wire or glowplug could have caused the solenoid to burn up -

thepodpiper · #20 11-02-2008, 09:23 PM

I see. Is there a way to test them for a short without getting under the covers?

Dale -

**sirthomas** · #21 11-05-2008, 03:48 PM

the glow plugs will run approx. a minute and a half, I was woundering how long after you turned on the key before you tried to start the truck. I would wait about 30 seconds if temps are in the 40's

How to check Glow Plug System

To check the Glow Plug Relay (GPR)
· Be sure the engine is cold, so that the PCM will tell the GPR to turn on. If the engine is hot, you won’t have as much time to check.
· Locate the GPR – Its behind the fuel filter on top of the engine, a little bit toward the passenger side of the valley. There may be two relays there. If so, the rear one is the GPR. It will have two fairly large wires (yellow and brown) connected to one of the large posts.
· With your multitmeter set to DC volts, and 15 V range (if not autoranging), clip the positive (red) lead to the output terminal (with yellow and brown wires connected), and the negative (black) lead to a good ground point (like the battery ground terminal or someplace metal directly on the engine block.)
· Turn the key to ON (do not start)
· If your GPR is good, it should click, and you’ll see 11 volts or so on your meter, then, depending on temperature, it will click off up to 2 minutes later. You should do this a couple of times to make sure it consistently makes the connection.
· If you don’t get voltage with this test, confirm by retesting as follows.
· Remove the two small wires from the smaller two of the four GPR terminals.
· With jumper wires, apply voltage from the battery across the two small terminals. If your voltmeter now reads voltage on the output terminal, your GPR is OK, and your problem is in the PCM circuit that tells the GPR to activate.

To check Glow Plugs.
· Remove the electrical connector on the inboard side of valve cover at the gasket. Press down on the top of the connector latch and pry gently with a screwdriver.

· There will be 9 pins on the valve cover gasket where you removed the connector. The two pins furthest forward and the two pins furthest back are for your glow plugs.
· With your multimeter set to resistance (ohms) and low range (single digits) if not autoranging, clip the negative (black) lead to a good ground point.
· Probe each of the 4 outer pins individually with the positive (red) lead, noting the resistance. Good glow plugs will have a resistance between 0.6 and 2 ohms. If you get infinite resistance on any glow plug, that one is either bad or the connector under the valve cover has come loose. -

rileycoyote85 · #22 12-05-2008, 11:00 PM

Dale, I have a 99 stroke and have been experiencing hard/cold starts for three years. I have been through 4 starters and about $1000.00 in fees for the stupid ford guys to tell me nothing is wrong. I came across the answer last summer while getting my inspection. The inspector saw the diesel leak from the bleed off stop-cock on the fuel filter. There are two o-rings on the stop-cock that are known to wear out quickly and that was problem. I replaced the part, costed me $55.00, and that solved the problem.
Bobby -

jvencius · #23 12-05-2008, 11:25 PM

It COULD be the injectors (sort-of). If some of the o-rings on the injectors (there's 5 per stick) are cut, the high-pressure oil could leak down and cause hard starting. I pulled my injectors a month or two ago when I had the valve covers off to replace my glow plugs since I had a couple dead holes and I'll be damned--once I replaced the o-rings that were jacked-up from the factory, my truck fires off within the first couple cranks. Between new o-rings, new glow plugs, and the Denso high-torque starter, my truck spins over stupid-fast even in the coldest weather. -

WyoRedneck · #24 12-07-2008, 08:09 PM

I am having the same problem too, but mine went from bad to worse today. I had been fighting the problem with the filter drain leaking and found that the mounting screws for the ball valve had stripped. Luckily with the housing being aluminum, I used a couple of self tapping sheet metal screws to get the o-rings to seal.

The worse part is I now have a check engine light on and the truck seems very sluggish. Hooked it to a code reader and it showed no codes.

Any ideas??? -

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