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Hey guys I'm looking for some advice ... I usually pay to have my mechanic work dome but I felt froggy and decided to re-torque my studs by myself. I got it all pulled apart pretty easy but I can't get to the studs under ... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER

Re-torque on head studs

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  #1  
Old 06-05-2013, 10:32 AM
Diesel Fan

   

Default Re-torque on head studs

Hey guys I'm looking for some advice ... I usually pay to have my mechanic work dome but I felt froggy and decided to re-torque my studs by myself. I got it all pulled apart pretty easy but I can't get to the studs under my rocker arms ... Do I need to take them off ? And if so what do i re-torque those bolts back down too?
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:43 PM
coors_man_2005's Avatar
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1/2 ton build done and on the road

   
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Dang man i would go 150 ft lbs but what was they done at last this matters also go in sequence yes you pull the rockers next time don't rip into something if you don't know for 100% these engines aren't cheap my favorite saying is (if you don't know ask)

coors_man_2005's Sig:08 3500 qcsb 6.7 cummins- nv5600 conversion valair clutch, all deletes raised rail pressure, arp head studs and rocker studs, vulcan head gasket & o rings,(thanks lazarsmith) titanium valve springs, chromoly push rods, silver bullet 66/74/14,fas 150 lift pump, afe stage 2 intake, 2000 dodge 1/2 ton Cummins conversion g56 4k.gov springs HD valve springs pump turned up turbo to small
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:52 PM
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Well I got them re torqued but now I can't get the freaking valves gapped right ... Iv gapped them like they say but each time I rotate the motor either the third or fourth exhaust valve keeps coming up super loose... What am I doing wrong
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Old 06-07-2013, 09:49 PM
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Are you torquing the the rockerarm lock nuts?
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