I have a fuel gauge that stopped working, checked gauge wiring and fuel sending unit. Sending unit is new too. I have gotten 3 good OEM gauges none made it work. Then got a glow shift fuel gauge and still isn't reading what I have in the tank it is reading 1/4 tank but i have a full tank. I have it on the right ohm setting too. Not sure what to do anymore. Any ideas?

 

Did your sending unit look like this?



Did you replace the whole housing? or just the potentiometer?

 

It was me it was my buddy's truck. He said he replaced the whole housing, and I saw the old one he took out.

 

I had to pull the fuel tank and clean it out, what beoch. I took the sender out and wiped of and set it asid for a few weeks. The float worked smoothly so I put it back in the tank and put the tank back in the truck another beosh. I fuel up and guage didn't work, so I got the bright idea to fill the tank, it still didn't work. Now I have been driving it and keep the tank nfilled up, I hate it. The dodge fuel lines are a real pain in the arms. I don't know why the don't put a access hole in the bed, stupid dodge.

 

Here is a schematic check the ground wire from the tank sender, make sure it has no resistance. It should be a black and white wire coming from the sender, Also find the connector where the sender signal wire turns from dk blu/org to Dk/blu if you have the dash apart its pin 11 on connector A.

1997 Dodge fuel sender.pdf

 

Any updates?

 

No updates been to busy my buddy mechanic is gonna look at it next week

 

Surprised no one has told you the $3 fix yet. Maybe it's an "old-timer" thing. What happens is that the float-arm not only travels up and down along the potentiometer, it also gets loose and wobbles from side to side, losing contact entirely . Referring to the photo upstream, see the pivot-nut at the left end of the swing-arm. Get a longer screw, matching nut, a small group of washers, and a spring similar to the one that comes from a clicking ink pen, but, a little larger. You see where I'm going with this? Stack spring and washers in such a manner as to provide constant pressure to the sweep arm, leaving it loose enough to get a measurement, but, tight enough not to break electrical contact. For good measure, you can keep the nut from backing off the longer screw by putting a vise-grip "bite" on the exposed threads of the screw. Did mine long ago, lasted about 10-12 years before some other corrosion necessitated pulling the system again and replacing another $3 worth of hardware.

 

He put in a whole new fuel sender/pump module...
but that fix does work good!
I threaded the shaft 6-32 and used a nut on mine.

 

Ok I'll try that this weekend. U guys think it could be the circuit board of the instrument cluster?