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Fuel gauge, done everything I can think of
I have a fuel gauge that stopped working, checked gauge wiring and fuel sending unit. Sending unit is new too. I have gotten 3 good OEM gauges none made it work. Then got a glow shift fuel gauge and still isn't reading what I have in the tank it is reading 1/4 tank but i have a full tank. I have it on the right ohm setting too. Not sure what to do anymore. Any ideas?
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Did your sending unit look like this?
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...d0c3d69be4.jpg Did you replace the whole housing? or just the potentiometer? |
It was me it was my buddy's truck. He said he replaced the whole housing, and I saw the old one he took out.
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99dodge fuel guage
I had to pull the fuel tank and clean it out, what beoch. I took the sender out and wiped of and set it asid for a few weeks. The float worked smoothly so I put it back in the tank and put the tank back in the truck another beosh. I fuel up and guage didn't work, so I got the bright idea to fill the tank, it still didn't work. Now I have been driving it and keep the tank nfilled up, I hate it. The dodge fuel lines are a real pain in the arms. I don't know why the don't put a access hole in the bed, stupid dodge.
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1997 fuel sender wiring
1 Attachment(s)
Here is a schematic check the ground wire from the tank sender, make sure it has no resistance. It should be a black and white wire coming from the sender, Also find the connector where the sender signal wire turns from dk blu/org to Dk/blu if you have the dash apart its pin 11 on connector A.
Attachment 30541 |
Any updates?
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No updates been to busy my buddy mechanic is gonna look at it next week
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:humm:Surprised no one has told you the $3 fix yet. :bat: Maybe it's an "old-timer" thing. :ouch: What happens is that the float-arm not only travels up and down along the potentiometer, it also gets loose and wobbles from side to side, losing contact entirely :dang: . Referring to the photo upstream, see the pivot-nut at the left end of the swing-arm. Get a longer screw, matching nut, a small group of washers, and a spring similar to the one that comes from a clicking ink pen, but, a little larger. You see where I'm going with this? Stack spring and washers in such a manner as to provide constant pressure to the sweep arm, leaving it loose enough to get a measurement, but, tight enough not to break electrical contact. For good measure, you can keep the nut from backing off the longer screw by putting a vise-grip "bite" on the exposed threads of the screw. Did mine long ago, lasted about 10-12 years before some other corrosion necessitated pulling the system again and replacing another $3 worth of hardware.:tu::choochoo:
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Originally Posted by geddy's uncle
(Post 1102086)
:humm:Surprised no one has told you the $3 fix yet. :bat: Maybe it's an "old-timer" thing. :ouch: What happens is that the float-arm not only travels up and down along the potentiometer, it also gets loose and wobbles from side to side, losing contact entirely :dang: . Referring to the photo upstream, see the pivot-nut at the left end of the swing-arm. Get a longer screw, matching nut, a small group of washers, and a spring similar to the one that comes from a clicking ink pen, but, a little larger. You see where I'm going with this? Stack spring and washers in such a manner as to provide constant pressure to the sweep arm, leaving it loose enough to get a measurement, but, tight enough not to break electrical contact. For good measure, you can keep the nut from backing off the longer screw by putting a vise-grip "bite" on the exposed threads of the screw. Did mine long ago, lasted about 10-12 years before some other corrosion necessitated pulling the system again and replacing another $3 worth of hardware.:tu::choochoo:
but that fix does work good! I threaded the shaft 6-32 and used a nut on mine. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...12d53d2200.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...b91a71f5c7.jpg |
Ok I'll try that this weekend. U guys think it could be the circuit board of the instrument cluster?
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