How to drag a diesel
 

I decided to take my truck to the track the other day. But before I went I spent 3 hours on here and google trying to get any tips or how to's. I couldnt find a single thing on diesel trucks. So I thought I would start a thread on this subject incase there was any one else out there that might be in the same boat I was in. So please add any other tips or correct me on anything I spew out here. But before we get started this may only apply to 4wd and automatics. So I show up to one of those "run what you brung" days. I figured it would be alot of those tarded rice burners and punk kids with mommy's car type thing. To my suprise there mostly trailered pro street and barely street legal rides. So that is not the best thing to walk into as a virgin. But I asked around and nobody wanted to help out the big redneck truck. So I lined up with one of those 350z. I did my little burout, stagged and spun all the way down the track. Now it did fell awsome spinning for an 1/8 mile making that crazy grey smoke. (black coal and white from the tires burning down to nubbs). So I lined back up and was told that I better not do another burnout or I have to go home. I found out you cant burn out with mud terrains, only drag radials or slicks. So confused I ran again. I idle out and roll the throttle about 60ft out. Pissed at this time figuring they just didnt want me there and trying to get me to leave. But thank god a cummins showed up. He explained everything to me.

1. Go around the water trough or water pit. The officials get pissed when you track water up to the line.

2. If you have 4wd throw it into high, and tow haul. I thought this guy was crazy when he told me that. Running 75+ in 4wd. But it is a must.

3. Slowly creep up to the tree. When you get up to the right place a yellow light will come on at the top of the tree. Then you need to roll up another 6in maybe to stage. The second light will pop on the tree.

4. Soon as the second light came on, I stood on the brake and quickly built up my boost. Now I have an 05 powerstroke, No boost gauge, yet. But I went off the sound and tach. It took alot of tries but my sweet spot was 2800 rpm's.

5. Then once both sides get stagged the light will start to go. There was three yellow lights verticle below the staging lights. It will start dropping at half a second apiece I think. So from the time it takes to go from stagged to a green light is about one and a half seconds.

6. I learned when it got to the last yellow before green, I slammed the throttle and released the brake at the same time. I got awsome r/t time doing this.

7. Being in 4wd it never broke traction. It shot out of there like a rocket. Just keep on the throttle slammed till you get to the finish line.

But here are some other things to keep in mind, Kill your air conditioner before you get anywhere near the starting area. ( I got threatened to get kick out again because the water from the a/c collecting). Keep all windows rolled up when you get close to the starting line. Dont be offended when no one lines up with you, unless there is another diesel is there. I ran a mustang and a new gto, It felt awsome but All the other racers saw them get beat and avoided me like I had herpagonasifalaids. So I would have to run by myself, Unless that cummins was close. They would all pull over and make me or him pass them so we would line up with each other. I didnt mind a bit, but the cummins was running a built tranny, twin turbos and more electronis than radio shack. He blew my doors off every race of course. But it would have been nice to play with some of the gasseres. But I understand there reasoning. They spend an ass load of money on all kinds of parts. And get spanked by a big ole truck that they could drive under. :ph: After I ran each time, I was crossing the finish line with cold chills and the biggest addrnaline rush I have had in a long time. Thanks for reading and hope it might help someone.

Sweet. Good post.

Awesome post man!, did you have OD on or off? And did you stay in drive, 1, or 2?

I had it in overdrive and in tow/haul

good post but i will say if you have a 03 or newer duramax with push button 4x4 and want to leave hard go to low 4x4 and ride the truck is smarter than you it will unlock and go into hi 4x4 with out you knowing it it is to save the truck. they are the only ones i know that will do this (ive seen 100+ mph in low lock):U:

Good post.
So what were your times?

9.2 was the best I could grab. But usually stayed around 9.3. My best r/t was .039

that must be 1/8 mile times? I went to the drag strip last weekend for my first time, I learned all the same things you put in your first post. It was import/street car weekend. There was lots of stuff there faster than me, but more importantly , my friends civic was slower :choochoo::choochoo::choochoo: My best time was a 15.4 (1/4) at around 86 mph, I figured it was pretty good for a mostly stock 12v. I need to go again and practice more , my best r/t was .906 ( someone asked if i fell asleep):argh:

For manual tranny guys!!!!!!!! and 2wd guys!!!

i have learned a few things. if you dont have a locked rear axle or traction bars like me, get off the line nice and easy to avoid the rear axle wrapping up all the way to the 1/8th mile.
once you get off the line you can pin it as long as you can keep it from spinning.

Now, manual 4x4 guys. use your 4hi and if you have a clutch that will hold up to a 3rd gear launch this is your best bet!! however if your clutch is like mine it's not recommended to do 3rd gear launches so launch in 2nd. now since we have handshakers just get your rpms up to around 2500 or so and as soon as you see that last yellow light pop up drop that clutch and pin it!!!

Now, if you want to set your truck up to be able to launch get a line lock and a dual disk clutch so you can slip the clutch to build boost and make sure you have a locked rear axle and traction bars!! haha

strokin if you have a clutch that can handle it. get your rpms up and hit the break with the same foot, start to engage the clutch and it will bog down the engine then from there you can build up boost and launch like an auto. i have cut a 1.6 60 ft before with this and if my tranny would have liked 5th it would have been a sub 12 sec pass oh well its life.

sweet

awesome post you hit the nail on the head

i will have to talk to dan @ valair to see if this clutch has the nutz for that. LoL. i have thought about that, but instead of foot breaking i was thinking of something more like a line lock... i run a valair full ceramic that i believe is a 650hp worthy clutch, but i can't remember right now. i know Dan told me not to do any 3rd gear launches with it so that idea is out the window til he builds me a dual disc. haha. if i could get the rear end to stay planted i think i could bust out a 1.6 60', but we will just have to see when we get to crandall... :U:

ya not a good idea to slip a single disc to build boost... you will weld the clutch together... a dual disc is made to slip...

I would slip my valair ceramic in my dodge and never welded it. Not sayin you should, but i got away with it a few times. :U: Your also not supposed to tow with that clutch, but it does everyday, just not nicely.lol I was in the low 14s in the 1/4 with the dodge, but traction was killin me.

ya this one will tow, but not much at all. most it will do is pull my f150 to a buddy's house to build the engine and drop it in then to the shop to get a custom true dual exhaust ran through there. thats probably about it! LoL

That is good if you are racing a 4 wheel drive. For those who have a two wheel drive diesel, you may want to heat up the tires . :5:

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:argh:


HUH?:argh:

i just put it in gear and go :tttt:

nice write up. It was fun to read that and very detailed. Thanks a lot.:U:

i love jammin gears next to a new corvette or rice burner then hittin 6th and leaving him at 60 mph=priceless

:U::U::U: AGREED!!!!! love jammin' some gears and spankin' up on an auto anything. says more for your driving skills!!

rowin the boat lol theres this local camaro that hates me lol the g56 just pulls to hard lol

What?:pca1:

no it won't, if you run in low range you will end in low range. There is not transfercase that I know of that can shift on the fly from low to high, and even if it could with the ratios they have , it would be bad for all parts involved. The transfer case would shift and the trans would have to downshift several gears to stay in the powerband. the only reason the D/A can see 100 mph in low is because of the double overdrive in the allison.

I saw this posted on another forum and figured if it gets one extra person to the drag strip, it's worth posting.

Originally posted by TopFuelEK4
This is a general FAQ for people who are making their first trip to the drag strip. If I've forgotten anything please feel free to submit an update.

Q: What do I need to bring?

A: Tool kit, jack, gas can, tire pressure gauge, newer helmet for 13.99 or faster (some states require helmets for all racers) , long pants, etc...

Q: What do they look for in Tech Inspection?

A: For street cars running 12.00 or slower they look for factory or SFI approved seat belts, coolant overflow tank, battery tie down strap, crack free windshield, and acceptable tread on street tires. Most sanctioning bodies use NHRA rules and guidelines. They can be downloaded at http://www.nhrasportcompact.com/2003/rules/index.html

Q: Can I have a passenger in the car when I race?

A: This varies from state to state but I believe it's 14.0 and slower in New York at LVD Of course that just makes you heavier, hence slower.

Q: How do I stage my car?

A: When the lane attendant instructs you to stage by waving you up, you do your burnout if applicable and then proceed to roll forward to the pre-stage position. This is when the top set of small yellow bulbs light. At this point, using lane courtesy, you creep forward to light the second set of small bulbs and wait for your opponent to do the same. (It's a good idea to use the hand brake to stop so you can keep one foot on the clutch and one on the gas. At this point you are staged and the lights will drop in approximately 3 seconds on sportsman tree.

Q: Lane Courtesy? Don't tell me I have to be nice to my opponent too?

A: Ok Lane courtesy is very simple. If you light the first set of small bulbs (pre stage) first, you should let your opponent light his first set. Then you both creep up. It gives both competitors and equal opportunity to stage without having to feel rushed. Remember, when you both stage (2nd set of lights are on) the lights are dropping, seemingly, almost instantly.

Q: What if I roll past the second set of staging lights.

A: It is best to roll back a full 3 or 4 feet and re-stage. The point of this is to load your driveline in the forward position. Not loading the gears in the reverse position if you were to just back up to the staging mark. This will help minimize breakage. Additionally do NOT take the car out of gear once staged. Just put the clutch in and wait to go.

Q: Should I roll through the water box or no?

A: It is my opinion that anyone with a street tire or DOT legal Drag Radial with treads should avoid the water box. A dry burnout will be more sufficient. Reason being is that you may not spin all the water out of the treads and when you move up to the staged position the water can leak onto the track and you'll lose traction.

Q: How long should I burnout?

A: Burning out is kind of a science. If you don't burn out long enough you don't get the tires sticky enough. If you burn out to long the tires get greasy and slick. Best bet is to Spin the tires long enough for white smoke to billow out, hold it for 3-4 seconds (1 one thousand, etc...) and release the brake or line lock, finish it up without passing the pre stage lights unless you're a big power maker in competiton.

Q: If I do use the water box should I roll through or back in?

A: Rear wheel drive cars should go around and back into the box such that they do not get the treaded front tires wet. Front wheel drives can drive through because the wet rear tires do not lead the fronts. All wheel drive cars should avoid the water box like the plague.

Q: How do the lights come down and what's the difference between sportsman and pro tree?

A: There are two tree types. Most bracket racing and test and tune sessions use sportsman tree. With this method the lights come down, yellow, yellow, yellow, green, each after the other. A perfect reaction time is a .500 with this type of tree. With a pro tree, all the yellows come on at once, then green. This is a much faster reaction time and the a perfect reaction time is .400

Q: How do I get the best reaction time?

A: On a sportsman tree when you see the third yellow go. By the time you react it'll be green. On a pro tree when you see any yellow go since they all come on at once.

Q: What if I react to fast?

A: This is when you see the red light. If this happens in a grudge match, eliminator, or in brackets you automatically lose. In test and tune it just means you're a dummy.

Q: When is the race over?

A: You'll see a line at the finish with colored blocks atop the Jersey barrier. Be aware where the quarter mile ends. It may not end at the score board and you may let off too soon. Also many tracks have different end of track indicators. If you're not sure walk the track before the event or ask a track official.

Q: Where do I turn off?

A: Most tracks have two turn offs. If you can make the 1st turn it is preferable and since you're probably not running a top fuel funny car you shouldn't have a problem. There might be an attendant waving you off or asking you to hold up. Generally the lane closest to the turnoff has the right of way. Use lane courtesy, think before you turn and be safe.

Q: What do I do if I have a problem on the track.

A: If you have any sort of problem back out, pull to the side of the track, and shut the car down once it is safe to do so if you are leaking fluids, are on fire, or lose partial control. Oil and coolant on the track is not a good thing. Do not exit your vehicle unless instructed by an attendant or if it's dangerous to stay in such as a fire situation.

Q: Does reaction time effect my time?

A: No, reaction time is purely a response time. The clock does not start until you break the staging beam.

Q: Well when does reaction time matter, whats it for?

A: Reaction time is how fast you react to a green light situation. If you can react faster than you opponent without red lighting you get whatever head start you beat him by. Example: You react a perfect .500 on sportsman tree. Your opponent reacts .750. You can go .249 slowing in the quarter mile and still win the race. In bracket racing it's equally important. We'll get to that soon.

Q: What is deep staging?

A: Deep staging is when you continue to roll forward a small amount once you see the staging lights come on such that you are about to overstage. It gives you a faster reaction on breaking the beam and puts you that much closer to the 60 foot mark. Remember in bracket racing or eliminators .001 can win or lose the race.

Q: How important are all these fractions of numbers?

A: Well how important is it that you win? A win is a win. (Please don't make me quote the fast and the furious)

Q: OK so now I get this whole staging and reaction time stuff, now what's bracket racing and heads up racing?

A: Heads up or Eliminator racing is basically an equal start. The lights come down simultaneously for every competitor. This style of racing not only shows who's car has the biggest Kahoneys, but it also shows how good of a driver you really are. Many races are won or lost at the lights and in the first 60 feet. The rest is just gas pedal and shifting. In bracket racing, you "dial in" during qualifying runs. You decide on what you want to set your dial in at based on either your best time of the day, your average time or whatever you think you can run. This is important because the track officials adjust the time each competitors lights drop based on their respective dial in. The reason this is done is to give each competitor and equal opportunity to win even if they are significantly slower than they're opponent. Example: If you dial in 15.0 and your opponent dials in 14.5, you get a .5 second head start. If you both run your exact dial in you'd cross the line at the exact same time. The odds of that happening are slim to none. This is where it gets tough. You have to cross the line first to beat your opponent. But here is the catch. If you run to fast you lose. example: you run 14.9 and your opponent runs 18.9 cause he stalled it at the line. He wins. He's embarrased but still wins . You will see experienced bracket racers who are winning by a large margin whack the brakes accordingly at the top of the track before crossing the line to make sure they get to the light first, but don't go to fast. Obviously if it's a close race you go for it and stay off the brakes till it's over.

Q: This is getting complicated? What's this 60 foot business?

A: Your 60 foot time is an indicator of what kind of traction you have getting your car to hook up from a dead stop. The better the 60 foot the better the quarter mile elapsed time. Every .10 or tenth in the 60 foot generally equals .15 to .20 or one and half to two tenths faster in the quarter mile.

Q: Ok I got that now, what else can improve my 60 foot time besides a good burnout and good staging?

A: Watch your tire pressure because it will increase a few psi. after a good run. Heat from track temps makes oxygen expand. Checking it between runs would be a good idea.

Q: Alright are there any other numbers, that I need to consider?

A: Actually yes. If you look at your time slip you will see a 60ft time, a 330ft time, a 660ft time and Mph, a 1000ft mark time and mph, and a 1/4 mile final time and mph. If you review your timeslips and the way your car is running you can learn alot from this little piece of paper. For example: If your car is slow to the 660ft mph wise but you have a good 60ft. you know your lacking power in 2nd gear or possibly are short or slow shifting. Example 2: If your car rips nicely through the 1/8th mile and seems to not gain as much mph up top you may be running lean, knocking and having timing pulled back by your PCM. There are a million variables but a great deal can be learned from analyzing this data. If it comes to winning or losing an event and earning prize money this can be invaluable.

Q: i heard the word money. Now you have my attention. Whats this prize money business. I want some!

A: Most sanctioned race events have prize money purses for the top racers in each class. This can range from a few hundred dollars to thousands of dollars for pro and outlaw classes. (what you think the pro's do this for free?)

Q: OK is there any other money or prizes to be had racing?

A: Well unless you're the idiot popping his tires in the lame burnout contest or the hottest chick there with the nicest tata filled string bikini and thong in the swimsuit competition, the other possible prize money you can win is called contingency money. Generally this is when you run a sticker for a sponsoring company and you win your class. So not only can you win say $500 for your race class, but you may win a prize or cash from each sponsor who's sticker you sport on your car during that event. Advertising people! Sticker that puppy up at the track but please take em off when you're rollin on the street ya damn ricers! Note: This is event sponsors, not necessarily the company or shop that may sponsor you. The agreements you make with them may get you more money.

Q: Well you seem to be quite the self proclaimed authority. Do you have any general thoughts that I should consider Big Daddy Don Garlits?

A: You will probably be very nervous your first few runs. Try to breath deeply and slowly and make sure you note where the facilities are. It seem like you always have to go at the most inopportune times. But really though, just be aware of your surroundings and pay close attention to the experts. Watch them stage, watch them use lane courtesy, note when someone breaks or has a problem how they handle the situation. Making mental notes is the best teacher next to this wonderfully thought out Award Winning FAQ. __________________

Read more: https://www.dieselbombers.com/newrep...#ixzz0Yp2oENGO

I have the on the fly 4wd in my 350. If i decide to race this one, i would need 4wd for traction, but dont trust the front drive shaft for more then 40mph because of the angle from the lift.lol If i switch back to 2wd say when i hit 30mph will it shift back to 2wd without damage, or would i have to back out of the throttle? The dodge was 2wd so i never had to worry about it.lol

You should be able to shift to 2wd with no problems. The only time there's a problem is when you try to engage the front axle while in motion. Disengaging the front axle is easier on the driveline as it releases the tension in the drivetrain.

thats the thing about drag racers some will bend over backwards and drop what they are doing to help a new or virgin racer and some will offer up all kinds af advice and then their are others who will act like you are'nt even standing there talking to them

Ashley.... Think about this for a min... I know your smarter then that...

Love the information here. Now for my additional questions. I have an f250 4wd powerstroke sct extreme race straight pipe, I've got the 4wd launch (it is awesome), I have seen most trucks at the track trip the first light and then get on the brake and start boosting and then just let off enough to let it roll forward and trip the second light after boosting and after your opponent has tripped their second light. My question is if anyone with a tuner has experimented with the shift points at the track, I have been thinking that the way my truck feels if it shifted sooner say at about 3500rpm wot it would build speed faster and be quicker? I am only going by seat of the pants it just seems that at about 2000rpm the truck is pulling harder (building speed) then at 4000rpm at wot. Just curious if anyone has track experience with numbers? Seems like it would also be easier on the truck keeping the rpm lower, would be the best of both worlds. Plan on hitting the local track in the spring after I replace my oil cooler and delete the egr.

Your truck is pullin harder at 2k then 4k, its a diesel. Are you runnin canned tunes on your SCT or custom. If you dont have custom tunes, get some and dont worry about the shift points. As far as hittin the track, I'd recommend doing headstuds first.

Custom tunes from Innovative, So I get that a diesel pulls harder in lower rpm because of the torque, my question is since it is a diesel would your timeslips be better if the truck shifted at 3500 rpm and dropped to 2000 rpm rather than shifting at 4000 and dropping to 2500 rpm? Just curious if anyone has played with this at all.

im only 17 so obviously i havent been racin for too long. but i have a 6 speed 04 cummins 3500 and when i race i win but im worried aout my transmission.when i shift in a race i shift really quick and when i slip the lcuth after a shift it it a real hard jerk. any tips?tryin to save the transmission

new clutch?

agree with that I love my dual disk but i sled pull:rocking:

i really want to take my truck to the track but i know i will get laughed at. my truck weighs more than most duallys. im thinking after the EFI and a few other mild upgrades i will just take it and see hopefully i line up agains someone slower. like a moped

good info

Cool thread. Learn something new everyday.

Will the Dodge transfer case handle 4hi launches? The truck is all stock right now but have wondered how they drag race these monsters! Mine also has the stick for the xfer case (not push button) would it be safe to switch to 2 hi after I get outta the hole or just leave it in 4hi? Thanks for any info!