tractor paint on my truck?
 

hey all im getting ready to do the paint job on my truck and got it all sanded down and primed. well went to the auto store to look at paint and my head almost exploded when i saw the price of a gallon of good duplicolor $250!!! well i went to tsc and found a gallon of tractor enamal for $30 bucks. anyone think this will work? any ideas? thanks tim

welll its paint ant it:tttt:

I've used it on several old trucks. Stuff wears like iron but takes a long time to dry. If you cut it with gasoline (says not to on the label), it will dry a bit quicker, lay down nice and flat and shine like new money!

If its the BPS paint, you may want to consider some clearcoat as well, I know the ford blue of their's fades really bad pretty quickly. Just a thought though, good luck.

ya im looking at the ford red from i think it's valspar correct me if im wrong but i like it... whta's the difference between tractor paint and auto paint? and can you spray it of roll it on?

u can spray the tractor paint, thats what we used to paint our derby cars with. does take a while to dry as stated above.

It's intended for spray on but there is an article her on the site about how to roll it on. It works with a roller but it fades quick because of how much you have to thin the paint down.

The difference between enamel tractor paint and lacquer auto paint, besides the price is the shine. Nothin you can do to enamel is gonna make it look like a gloss finish. If that's not a problem for you then enamel is easy to spray, cheap and will last as a protective coating for years and years, just don't expect it to look good through those years.

https://www.dieselbombers.com/bomb-s...aint-jobs.html
https://www.dieselbombers.com/bomb-s...um-roller.html

The difference between regular home use enamels and auto enamels is a catalyst is used to speed dry times, and it adds gloss. Basic auto enamel is an acrylic enamel. Urethane enamels are optional and have the highest gloss and resistance to UV rays that fade paint. They also are very chip resistant & tough. The disadvantage is most paints using catalysts need a fresh air system to apply safely.
A regular enamel or lacquer can be sprayed or brushed safely with a regular paint respirator. Spraying results in a smoother finish than brushing. Usually some practice at setting up a spray gun and thinning and mixing paint is needed for the smoothest enamel finish.
Lacquer is easier to thin and spray. It can be buffed for gloss but isn't quite as chip resistant.
Newer Automotive finishes in use are base coat/clear coat.
Auto enamels and lacquers are popular for refinishing autos or color matching auto paints that aren't base coat clear coat. Some TSC paint for tractors are acrylic enamels and made for using a catalyst. Check the can for instructions. :tu:

Let's just say you get what you pay for. Napa carries a decent line of automotive paint that's OEM quality. It's easy to lay down if you know what you're doing. Personally, Sikken's or House of Kolor is what it is all about.

tractor paint worked for me stay away from the "nason farm and equip paint tho" it sucks

This is a photo of Martin Senor's Euro-glow on a Mach 1 Mustang. It's a urethane enamel known for high gloss. It's dry-ed 24 hrs and will be re-masked for flat black acrylic enamel and striping on the hood. Martin Senor paints are sold by some Napa Auto parts. Another brand of urethane enamel is Dupont's Imron. The urethane enamels are a popular choice for refinishing faded gel coats on fiberglass boats. Especially boats used in saltwater due to it's fade,weathering and chip resistance. A fresh air supplied respirator is needed when spraying both types of these enamels.

The photo is automotive repainting for restoration of a car. It shows the shine urethane enamel has. The flat black to be painted on the hood is to match the factory paint and striping originally applied to these cars.

Your painting goals maybe much different. Good Luck with your repaint and whatever paint you choose. :)

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:jump: 1970 Mach I :jump:

I used to work at a metal refinishing shop and we used a lot of clear coat Imron. That stuff is hard as nails. I sprayed all my shotguns both inside the barrels and all the outside metal surfaces. I haven't cleaned them things in 10 years and they're spotless. The inside of the barrels still haven't scratched.

Wow, I was going to say that my personal experience with Imron over 20 years ago showed it to be really tough. . . . I didn't expect it to be that tough though! And the fact that it is still around says something too. It will be more expensive than $30 a gallon though :tttt:

I just did my little ricer early this year with True Value enamel (About $30 for the gallon) and I am here to tell you it isn't all that shiney or chip resistant. You would think I tailgate badly looking at the front edge of the hood. It was a 'free' car after rebuilding it from yet another wreck so I didn't want to spend much on it. Don't you just hate stupid people :argh: (A delivery van rear ended my wife at around 40 MPH :scare2: I guess at least this driver had insurance!!) I will try to post up some pics of it if you want. I don't think it is on here. . . .

Years ago I repainted the IH (The one getting the 12V Cummins!) with some 'snow plow' paint. The price wasn't too bad and it seems to be tough as nails also. It has a nice shine to it as well. If you want I will look up the brand name for you.

I would recommend going to a paint supply store unless you are going to go the $30 a gallon route. Either way, I would highly recommend using the right thinner for the paint you decide on. I know 'spirits' run at least $15 / gallon; but, painting is a lot of work and I would never cut a 'corner' just to save a very few dollars like that (You won't use much of the gallon of thinner in the paint, so you won't even save $12 if you use gasoline!) I would also always recommend spraying for a vehicle finish. Even if you haven't sprayed before you can learn to. Most important things to remember is to get up very close and move very fast. And I mean close and fast!! Be careful because you will cause it to run easily and if you are moving fast enough you will be sweating!! Don't let the sweat drip on your paint! :w2:

If ya look through those other threads I posted links to, in one of them another staffer here, Jazz is gonna be sendin me some new stuff to try out on my tractor fenders that shows a lot of promise for bein cheap, easy to apply and durable. If your not in a hurry you may wait to hear those results.

There is an industrial urethane or enamel too. No experiance with them. Heresay is they are used on oil rigs, optional on some equipment trailers etc.
95% of high quality auto repaint is prep, body work needed, primers and wet or dry sanding for the type of repainting we used as an example.

House of Color is infamous for mixing exotic paints and colors probably in any type of paint specified. One exception is flat black. A urethane turns it into gloss black. :dang:

We have experimented with commercial rust removers and other substances. One of the others works like magic, but is dangerous. We'll leave it up to the staff if photos should be posted of it in use. The last thing we'd want is someone to bottle and sell it as a rust remover not realizing it burns skin, eyes and possibly lungs during long term exposure or use.

We'll watch for Uncle Bubba's upcoming project results with new stuff!.:tu::choochoo:

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Everything we talk about on this site has an inherent risk factor that goes along with it. You gave us the risk factor with your rust remover, past that we have to assume a certain amount common sense on the part of the readers. Thanks for the info.

i love the feedback i think im going to give it a shot ill post pics when done im sanding everything down today paint later this week.

:tu: :choochoo:

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We will post some alternative rust remover info with before & after photos next time we use it. :sen:


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i remember my dad had a VW bug painted with some bright )&(* yellow Imron that paint looked good for ever.. no chips no fade...:tu:

The toughness & fade resistance of it is incredible. I hear the industrial version is used on outdoor machinery, bridges, etc for longer protection from the elements. It's suppose to be lower gloss and more pigment.

We had automotive grade mixed in John Deere construction yellow. It came out with more gloss than construction yellow normally has, but that color just tends to hide it. Probably why there are no very shiny yellow school buses.
This is a good contrast between that yellow old & faded. And how it looks in urethanes added gloss during overhaul. The part lying on the ground in the lower left is the original JD yellow enamel unfaded. That was used to match the color in urethane enamel. This paint is PPG's version of Imron sprayed over an epoxy primer. We used it on this tractor with tracks :) for fade and max wear resistance.

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Check out the reflection in the Mach 1's driver side door. :) Due to this paints gloss, you can actually see a mirror image of a yellow car. The gloss also adds a very high chip and fade resistant quality to this paint. The gun barrel coating posted earlier, holding up inside the barrel is amazing! Much different conditions than a paint usually encounters!

For comparison: the yellow car in the reflection was painted in a flat or no gloss yellow enamel. That particular yellow is slightly duller than the yellow on a ripe banana. Parked outside in the sun everyday, it will fade much quicker even if it's waxed than an unwaxed Imron or urethane enamel paint.

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