Battery Relocation
 

Well I decided to relocate my batteries
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sorry about the crappy pictures

is the stock bed going back on or are you building a flat bed?

I'm bout 95% positive Geoff put the stock bed back on

CAT batteries for an International engine? They may fight! :ha:

Are those 4D batteries? I thought about a couple of them, or even one. Lots of juice stored in those. That will clear up a lot of room for you, and the weight will be distributed a little bit better as well.

Very nice! I've been thinking of doing something like that too, only with dual acid/gels mounted sideways or somehthing... Be interested to see some bed on pictures.

stock bed back on right now. eventually it's getting a flat bed and i'll put them in the front tool box. i believe they are 4D's, with 1800CA and 11500 CCA each. yeah i got some juice in there! that was the only place under the body i could put them due to the size. total cost in batterries, iron for the boxes, cable, etc., i have about $1,000 in it. let me get some bed on pictures up. the only down side is i have to pull the bed to get to them so i put in a disconnect.

A grand:ouch:

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the first two are driverside. note i had to space out the drivers side 2 1/2" due to the parking brake cable right there.

Should get a splash of paint on there before the rust gets it. 1000 isn't too bad, considering the price of the batteries and how much copper is these days. What gauge did you use?

i did. i put some 3M rubberized underbody coating on them. talking to the guys at the shop and down at the parts house they recomended 1 ga. if i have problems with burnt terminals then i gues i'll upgrade to 1/0. also, do you know if they make a power block sorta thing? where i have my main power coming in, then have a post going to the starter, another for the post going to the cellinoid on the fender, another for jumper cables? i've looked thru the DEKA and STANDARD book and they make something similar just way to small.

Are these the only batteries you have, or is there one under the hood still? 1 gauge its pretty light for starting the engine from that distance. I would have gone at least 1/0.
When I relocated my battery, I ran a cable from each battery to the starter.

those are my only batteries. like i said if i have a problem with it then i will upgrade. i was looking at 1/0 and somehow they talked me out of it. as far as hook up it's like it shows in the pictures. pos./ neg. go from the DS battery and runs to the PS battery and then to the starter. the neg. goes straight to the engine block. now if i have to upgrade cable size can i do only the pos.? or do i need to do the neg. as well? where did you put your batteries?

Mine are still under the hood, I swapped air cleaner and battery positions. Each battery has a cable from positive top the starter, and negative to the block. All 4 cables are 1/ 0.

If each battery had one gauge from it to the starter, it would be better. Right now all that available 2000cca can go through one, one gauge cable. Ground its more important that the power wire, and it should be the larger off anything.

If it does become a problem, I would try this set up. 1 gauge from each battery positive to the starter. Then add a 1 gauge wire from the ground to the frame, along with the current 1gauge to the block. This should support the loss, and cost less than buying 1/ 0.

ok. do i need to run a ground from each battery to the block or can i get away with the one?

I suggest one from each.

ok. should i do this one out of 1/0 so i don't have to upgrade later?

If the distance is less than 9 feet, 1 gauge should do the job.

i'l have to measure it out. 2 feet behind the cab to the front of the engine. might be longer than 9 feet

Interesting.

I could not stomach the 1k, but I like the idea for the space under the hood.

oh believe me, i turned my head as he swiped my card. i want to put the water meth tank in one of the battery trays under the hood. if they make a tank that small that is.

If they don't, its only money to get one that does fit! :ha:

hell i'm a welder, i think a aluminum diamond plate tank would look good.

so to do any maintenance your going to have to pull the bed? that seems preatty inconvenient.

if i have to pull the batteries then yes. these are maintenance free batts tho...

This might be a dumb question but what if you need to jump someone off or jump your truck off?

So your sending 3600 ca to the starter?

the cranking amps is just what is available, it's not what the starter will actually draw though. There are some cold mornings that this setup would help me out:w2:

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you will want to take a 1/0 cable to the frame on drivers side, also make sure you put a heavy jumper from the frame to body of the cab. Looks good, if you decide to modify it you cam make the base on a hinge, basically a piano hinge with 1/2 rod and use flatstock for your 45deg brace with either 1/2 bolts or hitch pin setup. That way you would be able to tilt the batts. down to access them.

Oh . Do you have daul alternators?

the jumping part i can crawl under it and get cables on. but i will be putting thos cables on that stay on the battery then it has that big plug on it.

i'm not sure there is enough clearance to put a hinge on them seeings how it's almost touching the bed on the driver side. so i need to just take a small piece of 1/0 from the neg. post to the frame? i'll work on that this weekend. i'm still trying to find a "power strip" kinda thing where you have 1 cable coming in then it has multiple posts on it to run different cables off of. i you know of anything let me know!

Fab up a little slide with a pin in it. You release the pin, and battery lowers down. Just a thought, not sure if thats possible just throwin it out there... Probably be a hassle judgin by how heavy those things look

Each one is about 100 pounds. One armed bench press for exercise. :ha:

100... i weighed them, they're closer to 140. that slide set up would work too. why didn't i think of that... but i don't know if i like all that weight riding on a pin....

I just did a Google search for 4D battery weight, 100 was popular.

do a pin setup like the ones for reese hitches :humm:

yea you could use the slides used for keyboards on a computer desk, and have it fabbed up to hold it with a pin, of course youll have to let it down easy... im sure with a little ingenuity and a few 6 packs you can get the bastard fixed to be easier to get in or out. or instead of a pin use a master lock so people wont steal them damn $500 batteries so easy

well for now they're doing good. if i have to acess them on a regular basis i'll modify the boxes.

yea id just hate to be stuck in a bad spot with dead batteries and have to tow yourself from mcdonalds because your batteries are dead and you cant lift the bed off :td:

Get a set of these:
http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...rvwK9ypEGuaAAA

Mount them to a plate under the hood. Then run battery cable between the positve and the starter, and the negative to the frame/block.

That's halfway what I'm looking for! do they make them with a longer stud?

I'm not sure, but would imagine so. I just grabbed that picture off Goggle for example.

I'll check into those. See if S&W carries something similar.