1st Time 2nd Gen 24V Cummins Owners , Winter
Just post up some tips and tricks and FAQ about the 24v 2nd gen Cummins for you new owners ,
Headlights Diming Is normal that's your intake heaters cycling , Your intake heaters is a block of fins that are heated and when the air passes threw them its heated so hot air is going into your engine , You dont have any Glow Plugs Your Initial Firing is Cold Oil , Cold Block and Cold Air , so it may start ruff , And if its really cold it will shut a few cylinders off to stay running , You have no "FIRE" your engine relies 100% on compression Ignition of Fuel and Air inside the cylinders, Give your truck a break and PLUG IT IN !!! , its not a constant draw of electric it heats up then cools down then repeats Make a Big Difference . DO NOT USE your windshield wipers to remove snow/ice from your windshield , The motor is not very tuff and it will break. Run a Fuel Additive if its really cold Dont run an Emulsifier Style Fuel Additive , You Want a Demulsifier Additive during the winter It will say on the label which is which Emulsifiers Join H20 Molecules in your fuel system in hopes of capturing the large chunks of water in the fuel separator , This can cause Frozen Lines as the H20 is grouped Demulsifiers disperse H20 molecules in your fuel system with hopes of passing threw your fuel system and injectors unnoticed , having the H20 dispersed will be less likly to freeze |
yep the this morning my wait to start light stayed on for about 7-10 seconds i almost started it just from habit...so boys and girls get ready it wont be to long now:yeah:
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If you can let it run for a little bit as soon as you fire it up...dont just start it and take off it can be hard on everything your oil touches. So let the oil get a little warm so it can do its job!:U:
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ESPAR or WEBASTO hydronic engine heater.
I hate winter. |
Originally Posted by underpressure!
(Post 219247)
If you can let it run for a little bit as soon as you fire it up...dont just start it and take off it can be hard on everything your oil touches. So let the oil get a little warm so it can do its job!:U:
What you want to do is get it running, scrap the windows and slowly get it rolling. Driving way under the speed limit for a few 100 yards or even miles depending on where and how cold will get you the results you want. If your truck has the latest flash it will engage the high idle if it is really cold and if that's the case this is ok to let it sit for a bit as the motor is in the load range and will generate heat. This will not wash cylinders but will still waste fuel. Cheers. |
And i thought I knew a thing or two:ouch:
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Hey Circleville your right up the road from me ! Did you every go to any of the meets in lancaster ?
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Originally Posted by underpressure!
(Post 219349)
And i thought I knew a thing or two:ouch:
I wasn't picking on you, please don't see it like that.:choochoo::c: |
Originally Posted by DieselMinded
(Post 219497)
Hey Circleville your right up the road from me ! Did you every go to any of the meets in lancaster ?
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Originally Posted by Wyatt Earp
(Post 219301)
Uhh, well, no. Sorry but this is simply not correct. The modern ISB and ISBE trucks warm up much faster when they are being used inside the load range. Idling does nothing but wash your cylinders, waste fuel and piss people off.
What you want to do is get it running, scrap the windows and slowly get it rolling. Driving way under the speed limit for a few 100 yards or even miles depending on where and how cold will get you the results you want. If your truck has the latest flash it will engage the high idle if it is really cold and if that's the case this is ok to let it sit for a bit as the motor is in the load range and will generate heat. This will not wash cylinders but will still waste fuel. Cheers. |
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