CONVERTING WASTE MOTOR OIL TO DIESEL FUEL
 

CONVERTING WASTE MOTOR OIL TO DIESEL FUEL

Converting used motor oil to a useable fuel source. Currently, the market for used motor oil has stymied many recycling and reclamation efforts. The market for used motor oil has largely been geared to limited processing steps which convert the used motor oil into a low quality fuel such as bunker oil (#6 fuel oil) . Alternatively, a limited amount of used motor oil is reclaimed and converted into a recycled motor oil product.

Used motor oil retains a high energy potential. However, hazards and cost associated with collecting, storing, transporting, and general handling of used motor oil has limited the efforts to collect used motor oil for disposal or recycling. Although the prior art provides limited processing of used motor oil for other petroleum products, there remains a need for improvement within the art of converting used motor oil to a high quality energy source.

Waste oil from internal combustion engines can be cracked under low temperature, low severity conditions to yield a number two grade diesel fuel.

The starting hydrocarbon material, used motor oil, is characterized by a mixture of parafins, napthenes, aromatics, and olefins. above thirty percent distilled, cracking becomes vigorous between 60 and 650°F. The condensation temperature of the distilled material never exceeds the maximum boiling point temperature for #2 two diesel fuel. Therefore, in terms of boiling points, the cracked material meets the specifications for #2 diesel fuel.


Metal particles are typically in the micron and submicron range and represent particles sufficiently small such that they pass through standard oil filters.

And to think I use all mine to start my bonfires each spring & fall.

It would seem that filtering to the average fuel filter micron [ 10-20 ] & burning in tank at 3-6% is a good way to recycle .

Metal particles are typically in the micron and submicron range and represent particles sufficiently small such that they pass through standard oil filters.


this scares me...........I think if I were to put used motor oil in my fuel it would hafta be filtered down to get all the metal particals out

all the use motor oil we go through with our heavy machinary and dump trucks, we probably go through about 100 gallons a day and all that use oil goes right into our holding tank to be used tordes our oil heater in the shop. now when summer comes we just store the oil in big tanks

If it could be filtered down to 1 micron I would think it would be a lot safer then using it right out of the oil pan and putting in in your fuel tank as many oil filters only filter down in the 20-35 micron range.

I would filter it to at least 2 micron and then run it thru a strong arsed magnet to get the metal particles out.

hmmm...I've got plans for a waste oil furnace that fuels itself and condenses the stack exhaust into clear fuel oil. The only by-product is ash and no stack opacity once up to temperature. Anyone interested in trying it out? I haven't had time to build it yet, but the plans are solid and requires a very small foot print. Can be made out of everyday shop materials and hardware store parts.

Chris

Yes I am fuel just hit 4.05 a gal here in south jersey and I want to make my own fuel, my own small way of sticking up the oil companies butt to put it nicely.

this would be awesome to do since we get so much waste oil from the oil changes at the garage! has anyone came up with a clear formula to mix it in with regular diesel or do you have to do some work to the oil first?

I give my waste oil to a friend who is an over-the-road trucker. He has no qualms about dumping a couple of gallons in that BIG fuel tank and running it in his big truck.

I'd rather give it to him than risk my VP44... At least until I move to Colorado and get my garage outfitted with an oil-burning heater.

If I remember , one of the average smallest fuel filters is about 7 micron [ I mean stock , what the builder feels is the max allowable ] .
So that as to particles , should not be a problem , but we seem to be a bunch that likes to make things better , so some after market filters going around 2-5 micron , then by pass & centrifuge going sub micron , the particles being out ?
Then other issues are PH balancing , water ect. , this is just one more reason I went looking for the 12 P-pump .
I know I have the link for fuel recommendations , but have so many , that I can not find , there are about 4-6 things that were allowed in the P-pump engines , oil being one of them , but filtering , water & PH should be addressed .

Burn 1200 gal/year in my Reznor heater, shop 8000 sq. Get 3 loads of ash out of it during the season.

if diluted properly I think the pH would be of little concern, but there is probably a lot of junk in there that would need to be filtered out.

There are several centrifuges on the market that will filter to 1/10 of a micron for under $300. One unit will filter 55 gal of oil in 2hrs. We can fight the oil companies by recycling smartly. It will take some time,money and effort but if we keep paying their prices they'll keep charging more. Centrifuge co. Spinclean also dieselfuge

hey dieselherb you got any links to the centrifuges

Take your pick:
Google search for centrifuge+oil

:pca1:

I use a centrifuge for WMO and WVO and it is interesting the amount of crap that is removed.
I would highly recommend this type of filtering. No filters to change only bowl to clean out. Will remove water from diesel.
Regards
Ron

I have done a lot of reading and searching on this topic. I am convinced that centrifuging is the way to go. I am getting set up to do wmo/atf/etc. I plan to gravity filter thru a series of filter socks and then centrifuge thru an ACME Juicemaster juicer modified to become a centrifuge.
I saw/read about it somewhere recently. Sorry I don't have a link to it right now. Will post it when I find it.
Anyway, this juicer appears to centrifuge efficiently from the pics, but I wonder if it will just take longer since it only turns @ 3600 RPM. The "REAL" centrifuges turn at 7200-8000+ RPM. They are probably quicker and more efficient.

Do you heat your oil before you spin it in the centrifuge?

What kind do you have?

Thanks for your input.

I would be interested in those plans! I'll try it.

>>> I would be interested in those plans! I'll try it.

Me too.

:pca1:

My friend has a cummins 12V that he runs up to 50% old eng oil in, smokes kinda bad sometimes but runs fine, from the barrel he pumps it (30 PSI) through two fuel filters off an old truck engine, (filters are new) and a water separator,also off a big truck. He is trying to get transmission fluid from a local shop as its normally cleaner and closer in makeup to diesel fuel. The filters are from the local NAPA, and are pretty cheap. Parts were cheap from a big truck graveyard, and the 120V hydraulic pump wasnt too expensive.

hi there- so can you give me some info
 

on where to get the equipement, what are the results??:humm:

My dad is running 80-90% double filtered used ATF that he gets from a few shops around town in a 12v and the truck runs fine, other than the smoke. And the smoke will thin out to nearly nothing if the truck has been running for a while, so I would think you would be good to just heat the fuel. Only real problem I have with running it that concentrated is the thing can be a pain to start under 65* if its not plugged in and the smoke residue is kinda tacky...so you have to wonder what all is accumulating in the turbo and all...he just drives like it he stole it every so often and blows out a big cloud and keeps on truckin

WEO/WMO has it place... Like Cummins already produced Centinel which is a device that pumps WEO/WMO out of the crankcase into the fuel tank. But this was designed for the bigger Cummins trucks and engines...

But still in all there is a lot of prcessing that should be done... Filtering with a centrifuge and media is the best bet. As for the magnet idea it only picks up the metal... how about luminum and other non-ferious metals?

I'm curious if the centrifuge will filter out the carbon particvles too???

Don't the newer CR Cummins engines require a 2 micron filter? They are very sensitive to debris in their fuel systems. Its seems that if they only filer to 2 microns, than anything smaller wouldn't be a major factor.
Some of the older freight lines back in the 70's and 80's used to just mix old engine oil into their bulk fuel tanks, then filter them once at the pump. Other than a higher build up of carbon on the fuel nozzles and on the pistons, no problems.

I've dumped it from my drainpan into my transfer tank,back when I did not want to bother keeping it around,it quieted the engine a little,Fuel mileage was not as good,just about a draw.
I've got some barrels now,and am collecting it,going to build a small steam engine,powered with waste engine oil.(someday,when I can afford to)

I'm only going to put diesel in my 2008 F-250, I don't want to lose my warranty on this unknown 6.4 engine

Very good idea!

But I would at this point only suggest the WEO/WMO for the older trucks.As the trucks got newer the fuel system got tighter in design and don't tolerate debris as good. The old engines you could pump anything through it...

I have a dieselcraft centrifuge and ive been thinking about cleaning my UMO with it after each oil change. Then running it through a big ol magnet a few times and topping off my 200 gal. aux tank with it.

I've been running WMO thru a dieselcraft centrifuge to fully polish it down to a tenth of a micron (or so they say) and then thinning it down and running it in my 07 common rail Dodge. I add about 5 gallons of this to my fuel tank, then fill with #2. My truck LOVES it. No problems in the last year of doing this. :U:

Question whats your oil look like after filter and such? I would love to see your setup...

Do you heat it up like the guys running veg do or do you cold filter it ? Also do you run it over or through a mabnet to see if you get any metal material ? I know any metal would be small but after a while MAYBE you would see some if there were any tiny material.

my system
 

Yes, I heat it to about 175-180 degrees F* and run multiple passes for hours at a time until there is very little cake left in the centrifuge after several cleaning cycles. I have a recirculating pump hooked to a 55 gallon drum with the centrifuge, so it processes about 50 gallons at a time. Takes a while, but makes enough fuel for 10 tanks at the rate I use it. The oil is still pretty black at the end of the process, but if you rub a lil bit of it between your fingers, you can kind of feel the difference between it and the non centrifuged oil at the beginning. Using a magnet would only remove iron bits from the oil, it wouldnt help at all for the other metal types often present in used motor oil. That is the whole point of the centrifuge. I do, however, have a few magnets in the 1 micron prefilter sock just for giggles and general purposes. I havent really noticed much in the way of build-up on them though.

Thanks, i was thinking about running my oil in the fuel. I already have a centrifuge all set up on a 55 gal. barrel with heaters and a p/s pump to run it. I also have a series of filters setup to polish the oil, i guess the only thing left for me to do is start burning the oil. I was burning veg for @ 70,000 miles until i lost a cyl. due to a wrist pin failure. I got a new shortblock under warranty and havent ran any veg. or other alt. fuels YET !!

This is very interesting. GIves me a idea after I get a diesel. :w2: THis is a good idear if done right.

Can you email me the plans?
r_d@p3recycling.com
Thanks

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Did you get the plans? If so please email to r_d@p3recycling.com.
Thanks

I never did get them.

who else is running this on their CR motor

alright this what i do in my 12 v cummins strain oil in a paint strainer mix it 50/50 with diesel fuel add some acetone to thin it some more and your good to goo rins l;ike a champ:jump: