best engine oil out there? any suggestions?
 

saw 3 different types of oil for the same price? castrol, rotella T, and chevron? I got the rotella T anyone have a better suggestion for my next oil change?

I run rotella.


Strokin' Away

I always get chevron delo400 just because it's typically cheaper than the others...

motorcraft fords oem or rottela but if you want to have the best is royal purple full syentic some people swear by it but its not cheep. although ive never used it before because i cant afford it

For conventional oil dello 400, for synthetic or synthetic blend scheaffers

I'm using motorcraft filters and dello myself, but have yet to send out an oil analysis (although I have my sample containers sitting on the bench). My friend is running motorcraft filters and oil in his 260k mile 7.3 and his analysis says he's good for 5,000 mile oil changes.

honestly you can stretch it up to 8k miles thats what i do and its never to dark i put 5k in a few weeks :tu:

ask my buddy. he went 16K before he changed the oil. sh!t you not.

I switched to synthetic Rotella which was 6$ more per gallon then regular Rotella and I was able to start my truck unplugged below freezing on one or 2 tries when my GPR was bad. ON my Mercedes, the thing is almost like a gasser as far as starting below freezing when I switched to synthetic. But I think with a healthy Glow Plug system and batteries, dino would work as well. The difference between Delo and Rotella is just over a buck at Wally World today. but the other day they has a roll back on Delo for 10.50 a gallon. When reaching operating temperatures, I notice that with syn oil, the engine sound is quieter as well but a diesel is meant to be loud IMO.

my mom went 16k on an oil change with scheaffers oil in her Dmax. oil sample came back perfect

Duramax and a HEUI diesel are night and day different...

Just avoid running extended oil changes on a HUEI truck...

I use Rotella, DELO, & del vac they are all good

i know that, was just saying to the quality of scheaffers oil.

I would just get whatever is on sale, UOAs one brand vs. another are so close, just pick based on price.



Dmaxs are maybe the easiest engines on oil, if you do UOAs you can run oil longer on a PSD you just really need to watch oil viscosity cause it can drop very quickly. IMHO not really worth it.

Rottela T for regular oil and Amsoil with a bypass system for synthetic, cost more up front but intervals are alot longer, I run mine for 25k and test good but I change it anyway, I have a 6.0 and been doing this for last 200k and I have 250k on it with no issues, at times I would put 5k on in 3 or 4 weeks. just put 2k on in 2 days,talk about tired:s:

The kind that gets changed! :tu:

Forgive me if this sounds intellectually challenged, but its from a hard headed friend. Is there any reason NOT to run synthetic oil in a 1999 7.3L?

Cost?

Other than cost...IMHO no. I know some people claim that you will start leaking or you can't mix conventional and synthetic or once you go synthetic you can't go back to conventional...etc.

I have never ran into any of the issues that people claim with synthetic oil.

I would say on how long your oil last would be on your driving habits no?

My 7.3L buddy saw some key board commando write up about damaging the oil pump and "sensors". I told him that's what happens when he gets his information from "they said" or "them". Those two people are usually wrong!:bat:

Any rate, I thought I would turn to my fellow bombers for more input because there was NOTHING in the owner's manual for a 2000 7.3L about the evils of synthetic oils. That and I trust my fellow bombers more than "them" or "they". :tu:

Yeah you see a lot of oil myths floating around...especially regarding the 7.3. I hate to say it but a lot of mechanics don't totally understand the HEUI injection system and a lot REALLY don't understand motor oil. The one I run into the most is the mechanic that claims 5w40 is too thin at operating temp compared to a dino 10w-30 and will magically destroy the injectors..:argh: I am not a chemist by any stretch but I know enough to find out from people who know far more than I.

:tu:

I always run rottela t

I run valvoline Blue. Engine is smother running. 470,000 miles.
Price API Performance Category
$/gal. Oil # Brand/Description Estimate Actual
Best
9.98 Cummins/Valvoline Premium Blue 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
17.36 Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
21.89 Cummins/Valvoline Premium Blue Syn. 5W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
9.98 Pennzoil Long Life 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
10.88 Chevron Delo 400 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
35.00 Red Line Diesel Synthetic 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4

I paid $12.82 for DELO 400 LE at walmart:argh:

Correct if I am wrong, he is quoting the TDR oil study which is a few year old.

Good, now I won't feel like I got ripped-off:yeah:

Your right. it is an older TDR study. The prices have changed. valvoline is just my personal choice.

Yeah, that study is at least 4 or so years old IIRC.

Valvoline makes a good oil, I ran it a lot when I had my Dodge. A few years ago Cummins northeast had it for cheap money.

I am not a huge fan of that TDR study cause it focuses on VOA vs. UOA, which to me is like crowning a Super Bowl champ based on how they did in the pre-season. But I guess that is a whole different thread.

There are so many specifications, certifications, applications and competition in the oil industry is so fierce these days the differences in same grade-type selections is almost unknowable. Then you have the crackpots saying add this that or the other snake oil to it and you are good to go. Sheesh.

Just get any name brand oil in the correct grade for your environment, change it as necessary and you can't go wrong. Even filters are not that far apart anymore. The old Fram myth is a 2-decades old problem that disappeared 15 years ago. Operator error is the only reason people have lube issues. Wrong oil, not changing, leaks/running low. That's really all you have to worry about.

anybody use Mystic JT8 ?

No but i seen it at a local farm store kinda curious about it.

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jonh deere Plus-50 15W-40 is my oil

I'm running Rotella T6 in my Duramax and the trucks indicator for the Mobil 1 filters I use are in the 50% area at just short of 5K miles. My truck is used mostly for towing. I opt to change out my oil at around 6K. I haven't run a oil test and should. Very close to zero oil used at 6K miles.

rotella sucks in a powerstroke, your duramax and a powerstroke have very diffrent oil systems.

Always used rotella in my powerstroke not one problem.

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seen more then one case of it messing up injectors and whatnot. some people run it just fine but i would never take the chance.

Never happened, except maybe in some crackpot's imagination.

guess injector builders do know what happens to there own product?