Turning your EBPV into an Exhaust Brake
 

I found some really good directions online about how to turn your EBPV into an Exhaust brake. Check it out.. Hope i don’t get in trouble for sharing...... :c:

Let me know what you guys think?

that's the writeup i followed when i did mine. it works great! except the broken bolt on the manifold causing a nasty exhaust leak letting all the pressure out.

Added to the sticky file...

:humm:How bad was it? I really want to do this mod to my rig but i was not sure how reliable this source was and if anyone had done this yet. And just like every mod how bad is it for your truck.

it's not to bad. the best part of the write up is they had all the radio shack PN's. that was very helpfull. the wires are even the same color. except the wire for the brake switch. i grabbed the wrong wire but i always just flip the switch to on. as far as engine safety. it's not bad. just don't accelerate with the EBPV closed. you could float a vave seat.

How did you find the wire that is linked to the brake? I looked last night and can’t find any such thing off the master cylinder. It says that there is a green wire by the driver’s side of the master cylinder i the group of 4 marked "center high mount stop lamp feed". I can’t find it and do not really want to spend a ton of time finding a hot wire when the brakes are on. Do you have any idea fordornothing?

there should be 4 wires on the fender side of the brake maste cylinder. they might be kinda tucked in there. on mine i didn't see anything saying stop center high mount or anything so i just grabbed the green. but like i said, i always just put the switch to on.

Did you have any problems with the diodes?

*knock on wood* i have not. if i did it agian i would just put a simple on/ off toggle to it. no brake switch or PCM control.

i thought that would be the cool part the brake light and PCM because you still have normal operation of the EBPV. well to each is own bro thanks for the info.

well i say that because my PCM thinks it needs to close that valve ALL THE TIME! it's annoying as hell. and a don't drive with my foot on the brake pedal. and i have a brand new EBP sensor and tube.

oh and the cool little leds... i have my switch all made up just have not hooked it up yet. here is a pic.

bad pic better one

what's the push button?

they are all toggles..

the one on the right looks like a push button. i had a pretty nice pannel on my 94 that covered the storage hole in the dash.

Yah i was thinking about doing that but i always use the cubby. I decided to make my own little switch panel and that’s kind of what i came up with. I’m going to put in a second row of switches above that switch panel for all my lights.

i might make another for my 99. but some times i use the cubby and sometimes i don't. we'll see i guess.

tips and tricks that i encountered doing this mod.
1. The wire from the 4 wires marked center high lamp feed that do not lead to anything are dead wires. i taped in to the wire harness right behind the master cylinder on the driver’s side above your feet. (GREEN WIRE) check to see if it has power only when the brake is applied.
2. The wires coming off of the EBPV on the plug to the pedestal were not the same color as the directions depicted. Black with a white stripe and yellow with a red stripe. the yellow with red is the one to tap.
3. install another diode in the power supply so you do not short out what you are taping in to for power.

keep in mind these directions are for the OBS. my EBPV wires are the same color as OBS....

EBPV & T/C lock with DPST switch
 

Not sure if this will work either, but seems pretty easy.
BTW, what size diode, swamps shows a RS#276-1114, which should be 2.5amp, but they are actually 1.5amp, not sure if this makes a difference, maybe using 1N5408, 1000PIV 3amp rectifier diode.... just wondering

Attachment 23091

If I use one DPST switch, grounding T/C and energizing EBPV then it would seem much more simple with just one switch. Don't really need to have 3 operations, typically I would use the EBPV with braking, so actuating with brake lights seems just easier for me.
Let me know if you think this would work, and also if this is actually a switch I am proposing, or a relay. If it's a relay then how would I operate it with one switch?

Also, would putting a diode on source side of tap for T/C for potential backfeed be a good idea. And/or diode, or at least a fuse for the brake light hot wire.

Thanks

TIMK

2003, F350, 7.3L, 4R100, CC, SB, 4" lift, 285/75/R16
SNUG TOP, AIH DELETE, 6637 INTAKE, PETE'S COVER, FOG LIGHT MOD.... MORE TO COME!

i'm thinking about re doing it and just having on and off. keep in mind it takes a few seconds for it to close so you might not like it if you wire it to the brake.

More info please
 

fordornothing....
What size diode did you use? just the ones that swamp calls for?

Also, would my diagram be a switch or a relay, and would I have to operate relay with a switch?

I'm not an electrical genious, so the more info the better.

Thanks

TIMK

oh you're a auto loader... well your diagram just confused the holly hell out of me. i'd follow swamps write up. they have it for autos too. my diode? i don't know. i went to the shack and handed the lady my list and she got everything for me. lol

Modified Swamps
 

Well, it's sort of like Swamps, but modified in that in only would have one operation, instead of ON/OFF/ON. Although you bring up a good point, if there is a 2-3 second delay, then hitting the switch may be a good thing. I just don't think I would use it that way, and would prefer to use the brake to engage, but that's me.

Yeah, slush box, I know. I wish I had a ZF6, just can't seem to get it passed my old lady yet... yet!

I ask about the diode because Radio shack claims that part# is a 2.5 amp rectifier diode, but there were reviews on the website claiming they were only 1 amp, so I want to be sure of the size.

If anyone knows more than fordornothing or me about electronics please chime in.
I think I have a relay on my diagram, or a DPST switch, but like I said, I'm not an electronics wiz, so I'm not sure.

Can someone let me know if my diagram would work, and if so what type of switch it would require.

Thanks fordornothing, I'll keep at it. If all else fails I can still use swamps, just don't need 3 operations.

Thanks in advance

TIMK

I doubt that the back pressure solenoid uses more than 1 amp to operate. If you have a multi-meter with amp reading capabilities you could hook it up to the battery to see how much it takes. If there is any doubt you can always use a larger diode without any trouble.

well if you just want a on/ off, just cut the wire. on mine it was grey with red or it will be the yellow with red. then run a wire from the brake switch to it or run a wire from a switch. it's up to you.

Yes
 

Yeah, but I'm still needing to lock the T/C... auto remember.
So what I need to do is ground the t/c and energize the EBPV at the same time. One switch

That's all... doesn't seem that hard, but I don't know what kind of switch I need, or if it would require a relay.
Thanks for the info on Diode, I never thought to check with multimeter... Duh, I should of thought of that.

Or I can use a DPDT switch like swamps and just not have the hot power position hooked up, so basically up would activate with brakes, center is off (normal) and down is nothing.

Thanks in Advance

TIMK

Or I can use a DPDT switch like swamps and just not have the hot power position hooked up, so basically up would activate with brakes, center is off (normal) and down is nothing.

Thanks in Advance

TIMK[/QUOTE]

If all you want is the brake activation a DPST would do the job.

you can look at swamps writeup for locking the tc... or spend 400 bucks on a controller. lol

:c:I followed these directions with the DPDT switch and I must say I am very happy with it. I like when im driving in the mountains that I can throw the switch to work with the brake and save my tranny. Also the 2.5amp diode is a little overkill but it does not matter. Its only blocking current form flowing back through to the brakes. This is only a problem when the EBPV is under normal operation. With this set up you have the option to switch back and forth between on and off as well as working with the brake . it took me about three hours, I double checked everything and the directions were good except for the changes I stated in the other post. I would recommend doing this to the next guy because it is super handy. good luck

That's what I thought
 

QUOTE]

If all you want is the brake activation a DPST would do the job.[/QUOTE]

Gradyc,
That's what I was thinking, a DPST switch, One pole for ground to T/C, and one pole for energizing the EBPV. So double pole, with one operation activating both, so single throw
DPST... right?

Can you look at my diagram from my previous thread and tell me what you think? On next post as well.
Just want to confirm with someone if I'm proposing to do what I want and will get the results I want from this schematic.

Thanks for the tips Hosser, that's getting me closer to actually doing this thing.
Can you look at one of my previous threads and see the schematic I've drawn for a DPST switch (which basically only uses the "Brake lights" option of swamps)? If you could see if this would work, that would be awesome.. or encouraging at least. Check my next post.
What I want to do is just use the brake lights option, so basically energizing the EBPV and grounding the T/C in one operation, so I would just use a DPST switch right?

Also, how much voltage operates the EBPV? Full 12V?

Basically I want to just have ON/OFF (locking t/c and energizing EBPV, not interested in swamps DPDT switch, although I could use it but would just not hook up the 12V always on portion, so it would be ON/OFF/OFF with his option.

What do you think?

Thanks in Advance

TIMK

Schematic for DPST switch
 

Attachment 23175

Check this out.... Do you think it will work?

I tried this and could not get it to work. The wire from PCM to EBPV has voltage any time the key is on. How does applying voltage to a line that already has voltage help anything?

Thanks

Voltage w/key on
 

Maybe try waiting until your engine warms up. It's probably getting voltage during start up.

TIMK

If I disconnect it from the PCM and just use an on-off switch. Would it make any problems??

THANKS

Fuse
 

What size fuse for the supply power?

I couldn't open the file with the write up. I am not sure witch diodes i need to buy please help!

Good info im gonna look into it