More HP, same MPG? Upgrades/Mods?
 

I want to make some mods and upgrades without hurting my fuel economy or jeopardizing the integrity of the engine. Yes I know that anything really can jeopardize the integrity of the truck but within reason. It has a 4" turbo back exhaust, I was thinking of going with a 6 position chip, an upgraded turbo, I know nothing about them but everyone is talking about a 38r, a S&M intake, and maybe changing out the inter cooler. If I could make 400-450 hp that would be great, 500 would be awesome but I think thats a little much to ask. Whats your opinion, mods, upgrades, hp?

Set a horsepower goal that fits with how you use the truck, then set a budget...

Once you have those two figured out...

You need to start researching injectors...https://www.dieselbombers.com/99-03-...tml#post528193

38r would be a good upgrade to the stock turbo...

Chip with some custom tunes...

You will need to beef up the transmission...

You might want to start looking at studs, springs and pushrods.

My goal is 400+, budget, not really a concern, it has a beefed up tranny already, I have been hearing these stock 7.3's can handle 400 with the studs, springs and pushrods they have, is that wrong?

2001 and newer PSD's have PMR's, which are powdered metal rods, L99 and 2000's have Forged Rods...

The PMR motors are good to about 400 HP, while the Forged rod motors will handle up to about 500 HP. Beyond that both motors need head studs, springs and pushrods replaced.

Your good having a 2000, you can handle up to 500 hp.

I am in the same process in that I am modding my truck, I chose the 38r and I love it, then I went with the TS 6 Position chip with Tyrant custom tunes...I am very happy so far.

Next I am going to install the 238cc/100% injectors, then go with a regulated return fuel and fuel bowl delete system. I will address any oil issues after that, IF I have any at all or my stock HPOP let's go.

I tow a 35 ft Toyhauler that when loaded is about 12,000 lbs, with the mods I am shooting for I should be still reliable and have manageable EGT's...I am shooting for 400-425 HP, I might be touch over when its said and done.:c:

Thats exactly what I am shooting for, what kind of fuel mileage are you hoping for? What is a spyntec unit bearing conversion?

When I am towing I'm hoping to maintain 11-13 mpg, running empty I am averaging about 17.5 -19 mpg.

Theoretically, if you the mods help the truck get along down the road more efficiently it will get better mileage...as long as you keep your foot out of it.

My biggest concern are the EGT's, I have to climb steep passes pulling my trailer, so I am concerned to not build a really hot running motor, empty will be fine...

I am buying a newer trailer this year, probably an 05 or newer, 30-40' toy hauler, with 2 or 3 slides, I will pull it to somewhere in the country then be there for a few months, then somewhere else.

Sounds like a little gypsying...should be a lot of fun. Do you work on a Drilling Rig?

What kind of trailer are you looking to get? I have had my eye on a 37' Raptor, but it's just way to pricey for me. Will be sticking with what I got for awhile.:tu:

You can run the stock ones... I wasn't sure what your horsepower goals were, You start knocking down the door of 500 and I would install studs, springs and pushrods...

In fact, If budget is not really a concern, I would do it even at the 400 hp level... They are added insurance...

Have no idea, its just for work but I want all the comforts and it has to be in decent shape, dont know a thing about any of them because the only one I have ever owned is a 27' bumper pull made way back in 78. I know I want the actic special or the equivelant. What are some of the differences, why do you want a raptor?

I like the options and floor plan of the Raptor, its an expensive beast. The things that are different are whether you get a straight through type or one with a garage in the back. By straight through I mean that there is no partitioning wall separating the living area from the area you haul the atv'/motorcycle. Mine is a straight through, I can put 3 full size quads, 2 youth atv's and 2 motorcylcles in mine.

The Keyston Fuzion is another one that has great options and different floor plans...these trailers are $55k to $75k...they are not cheap!

There are a lot of things to consider when buying, look at the belly storage and make sure there are no pipes and vents hindering the storage area. My trailer has the toilet drain pipe running through the middle of one storage compartment and the shower drain running through the middle of the other one. Very poor design. I didn't look at it closely when I bought it.

Other differences are double or triple axle, usually most toyhaulers that are over 32' have triple axles, but not all. There could be a book written on all the things to consider in my opinion.
:humm:

55-75 used? I am looking at spending 20.

No not used, that's new. Not sure what one would be used...

There are a lot different models out there to choose from, I named the most popular and nicest featured one's. Several manufacturer's have some sort of toyhauler....

Figure out if you want a bumper pull or fifth wheel and then start looking at "RV Trader" online and look at ebay as well...you'll definitely find a great trailer used trailer for 20.

I am not sure on the hitch type, 5th is nice because you can pull a bigger trailer and it will handle nicer but then you dont have a bed, so I might go with bumper. Just depends on if I can squeeze a wide tool box and fuel tank infront of the 5th.

Do you have a longbed (LB) or shortbed (SB)?

Its a long bed, its in my sig. I am hoping to be able to have a custom made 150-200 gallon fuel tank built and then put an extra wide tool box in there and still have room for a 5th wheel but I dont think I have that much room. That would take up about 42-48" from the front inside of the bed. The axle is about 52" from the front inside of the bed. Need to know how much room a 5th wheel actually takes up, like how far infront of the axel is the furthest most point, or if it is the same bed, how far from the front inside of the bed is the furthest forward point. Then I can make a custom tank to fit.

I have a SB, so my 5'er hitch sits right on top of the axles, damn near centered front to back and its a sliding hitch so the trailer doesn't hit the cab when I turn. I have 31 1/2 inches from the front of my bed to the front of 5'er hitch. I would imagine you could add another 18 inches or so to that for having a long bed.

That 31.5", is that to the 5th wheel plate where the king pin is or to the mounting legs that extend further to the front?

That's to the mounting frame that sits on the floor bed...the 5'er plate sits at 33".

I just got back from town and measured a 5th, it protrudes 12" to the front, and if you mount it 2" to the front of center over the axle that leaves me 38" to play with, only enough to mount a standard tank.

That surprises me, my bed is 6'6" and I figured an 8' bed would allow more room in front of 5'er hitch.

Have you thought about going to a gooseneck style for a 5th wheel, most all pin boxes can be converted to a gooseneck hitch.

This is one style of bed mount for a fifth wheel, but any gooseneck hitch will work, you just have to find a kit to convert the pin box over to gooseneck:

http://www.pullrite.com/super5_gooseneck.htm

Here is a coupler to convert the pin box to a gooseneck, there are few different one's:

http://www.etrailer.com/dept.aspx?fu...FRFOgwod2ggtfQ

Yeah but the mounting area will still be in the way.

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Can you take a pic of the inside of your bed?

the mounting for a gooseneck hitch is under the bed and the only thing that sticks up is the ball mount...

I will take a picture tomorrow of my bed.

Oh yeah, thats right, it is, could use a "hide a ball".

How did you decide on the 238-100?

I decided on those because the stockers are 160cc and I want more and if I am going to tear down and R&R the injectors I want something I can build up to if I choose. They may be overkill, but at least I can build to their full potential like a modded HPOP and Reg/Ret fuel system...

Not really set on the 238/100's...might go with 205's...

Towed my trailer to Kalispell, Mt and it was easy to get the EGT's to rise, the motor might be a little too hot, looking into a InterCooler next before injectors, cuz if it's hot now with stock sticks, it'll only get hotter with bigger one's.

Stockers are 140cc split shots...

A typical stage 1 injector is 160cc single shot..

What is the difference and pros and cons of single shot and split shot?

OOOps! My bad, thank you for correction, had it in my mind that 160cc wasn't a very big jump from stock and just plainly effed-up on switching the numbers!:argh:

Split shot has somewhat better idle quality and is a bit quieter.

Single shot uses less HPO and is easier to tune for higher HP.

Single shot is more efficient.

So it would be better to go with singles?

Correct...

What injectors are you running, or what would you like to run, are "swamps" any good?

I am currently running 250/200 hybrids.

I have run in this truck stock AD's, Stage 2 Swamps, EIS Fubared 238/30 hybrids, GTS 238/80 Hybrids and these 250/200's...

Swamps is one of the best builders out there, Casserly is right there too...

what are 250-200's, 250cc-200%? What kind of hp are you running and what is the purpose of your truck, work, play, recreation?

250/200 are 250cc per 1000 shot hybrids with 200% over stock nozzles.

Hp... Before I blew the last motor with 238/80 I was at 470hp... That was with a smaller turbo.

Now it should be about 525-550, but who knows. I dont care anymore... 4 motors and 6 trannys and 2 rear ends and a bad economy will sap the giveafuk right out of you.

I drive it. It pulls trailers. It starts everymorning...

Someday I will have fun with them again.

I was just wondering why you were using a 200% nozzle, instead of say a 100% nozzle, why go with such a high %, how does it relate to the cc of fuel being released or hp or efficiency? And what does the "1000 shot" pertain to?

Injectors are rated on a stand per 1000 shots... So a 140cc stock AD flows 140cc for every 1000 times it fires.

A 250cc flows 250cc for every 1000 times it fires...

200% nozzle allows you to shorten the PW (Pulse Width) and makes a much crisper injection event per the HP asked. A 100% nozzle would take longer and would require more advanced timing or more retarded timing to inject the same amount of fuel.

I didn't want 200% nozzles when I order them. I ordered 100%... However I am glad I received the 200%.

Oh, ok, why are you glad you got the 200's?

Because of the reasons I stated above. Much crisper HP, better tuning with less timing.