new glow plugs, wont start
 

i put new glow plugs in last night, i put a new glow plug relay on, truck still wont start if it drops below 40ish, it blows white smoke so i know its cranking good and pushing fuel through the system, what should i check for? it did this before that's why i changed everything but it didn't change anything, if i plug it in and get it started, it will start perfect the rest of the day

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i tested glow plug relay, with key off i have power to one big stud(the power side) and with the key on i have power on the power side of relay and one small stud (the front stud), this accurate? i haven't tested it while its cranking over yet, do i need to? there is no power to the second big stud or the small stud towards the back of the motor,

Did you replace the correct relay? Are you testing the correct relay?

There are two there... One for the intake air heater, and one for the glow plugs.

not on mine i only have on top of motor, and it was a bad relay from the start, i jumped the relay, and i heard my glow plugs kick on, so i jumped it for 10 seconds and it fired right up, so i replaced it and now it works perfect and i have power to the other big stud when i turn the key on.

Your GPR sounds like its working. Did you remember to put the caps back on the glow plugs? How did your UVCH look?

Well you have a Early 99 then... Good thing to know when your modding your truck!

Early 99's dont have the intake air heater which is the second relay on top of the motor.


Sounds like you got it worked out!

yes sir, its like mid 98, ya 3rd relay in less than a year,

3rd in less than a year? I got mine from some company outta SC on E-Bay for $30 a year and a half ago. I busted a post (over tightened...oops!) during install, i called to get another and they replaced it free no questions asked. I just wished I had the # to give ya.

Napa... GPR109... about $34 bucks. I have not replaced one in about 2 years now.

There is also the Staycor, which is a tough SOB but about $100 bucks.

$34? Everyplace I called gave me quote of $45-60

oriellys here in town wated 78 for theirs i warranted a buddys haha

Here you are 44 bucks this is where I got mine a year ago

586-902 Stancor General Purpose / Industrial Relays

OOooo! Now this is interesting. Can someone post a pic of this relay board, or whatever you call it? I am having cold start problems too. I would gladly replace both relays if I knew what to look for. Mine starts great in the warm weather, but sucks in the cold. I also get plenty of white smoke when cranking too.

THANKS!!:tu:

just look on top of the motor on the passenger side, you will see 2 relays, they look just like ford starter solenoid, i BELIEVE the one you want to change is the rear (i could be wrong tho), and make sure you get the glow plug relay or you could burn your computer up,

Your Excursion does not have a GPR... It has a Glow Plug Control Module... Its fancy... and expensive, and breaks all the damn time! On my 4th one for the wifes Excursion!

Okay so anyone have a P/N and/or a procedure for testing this? I don't show any codes and my curly cue glow plug light comes on the way it should. I can also hear (what I think is) the cold air warmer fire off. It makes that whoooosh sound.

I would gladly replace the GPCM if I could verify it's malfunction.

Ideas?

Glow plug light means squat, its an idiot light...

You can not hear the intake air heater, more then likely you are hearing a vacumn pump, and the intake air heater has nothing to do with cold starts, infact it does not even come on during cold starts.

What are you using to look for codes? If your GPCM is out, you will have a code for it.

I have a generic SES scanner just to read codes I bought at Pep Boys. It clears my PO238 I get when in over boost, but that's another story.

Really? about the glow plug light? I have seen that stay on once in a while too, until I key off and re start. That's rare though.

As for the whooosh, what is that then????? Wouldn't that be the best time for that heater to come on -- cold starts??? I am really confused now.:humm:

I paid the same, nothing near $100

Doubtful it will read diesel codes, and not in depth at all...

yup, nothing more then a glorified idiot light... Watch this video that shows how long the glow plugs stay on after the WTS or light goes off. This is on a warm motor too.




The intake air heater was added in late 99 for nothing more then white smoke when sitting at extended idle. It has NOTHING to do with cold starts. It will not come on unless the parking brake is set, truck is in Park and the oil temp is above a set point...

Well I will stick to my GPR109 for 24.98... Same one for 3 years now...:tu:

No SES Light
 

Well, I am going to try swapping/disconnecting the GPCM cables and see if I get an SES light. If I do and my scanner can't read them for some reason, then I guess I'll head to the stealership for a more, in depth analysis. If mine reads P0238 I think I'll be fine though.

That was interesting news about the cold air warmer. Very enlightening. No wonder people take it out and cap it off. I saw pics about it being such a restriction.

More power to ya. I had one and it lasted a couple years. Figured i would try something different

RockAuto Parts Catalog

Very good price right there! I ordered one for Chelseas Excursion last week...

More Information for MOTORCRAFT DY876


Close up picture of the module...

you get it fixed yet
 

for anyone having sudden or now recent problems starting thier powerstroke , i have a 2001 7.3. if you have already replaced your glow plugs, relay, looked at your batteries, alternator ambient air sensor and determined your computer is working i may have a solution to your problem. if your truck still wont crank over in the cold unless plugged in. regardless of your oil, fuel filter (check fuse to see if heater is working) there are 2 connections for the glow plugs to get a charge. one is plugged in right at the valve cover, the other is on the inside. if one of these becomes disconected or wiggles loose, you will not get a charge to either one side of the motor or the other depending on which side has lost a connection. the result is white smoke and no crank (your getting compression and fuel, but 4 cylinders are not getting warmed by the glow plugs to heat the fuel). while the other side is, now if its plugged in, it will start start fine because your block including the cylinders are allready warm so thare is no need for the glow plug system to engage as a cold start is not needed. if your upset and tired of trying to find the problem with your 7.3, look at those 2 connections as a last option. new kits are 85.00 at napa or use little dab of super glue to hold it in place

change hpop case oil wit amsoil might help [it holds 3 qrts of sluge oil it worked 4 me]

Oh no... Not another change the HPO oil guy.

If you want to change your HPO res, go out on the road, go WOT for about 2 seconds, and the HPO has been changed. ITS THE SAME MOTOR OIL IN THE CASE...

Got my lifetime GPR from checker o'riley lasted about a week then it took our the computer and a board in the trany. After ford tracked down the problem it was $2063. Everything is working fine now.

how in the hell did the GPR take out the PCM and tranny?

Cuz ford said so...

It didnt...

Its not possable.

i didn't think so.

Lol and they wonder why we call em stealerships...