Wanted: 7.3 shop in Central FL (1500 RPM shutter)
 

Has anyone had a good experience(s) with shops in Florida? Specifically the Orlando area but I would be willing to drive to Tampa or even Jax if I had to. I normally do all my work myself but this latest issue has me stumped and is just getting to that point of letting some who specializes in these diesels take over.

I have read up and down the forums looking for a solution but nothing seems to be the fix I need. Here is the issue for some background:

Starting about 2 months ago… The truck idles a little rough (most people would say it’s just a 7.3 but I have driven it for 8 years) then it misses/shakes/shutters real bad in the 1200-1800 RPM range and the worst at 1500. Only when accelerating, as soon as you let off the pedal its normal. And if you run at 2000 RPM it runs strong. The worst is at 1500 RPM when it shifts into OD, bad enough to spill a full glass of water. It feels like when my Valve Cover harness came undone but I checked it all out.

I have scanned the truck and no codes (other than the pedestal P0476 and AIH P0541). I did get contribution failures. First scan with gray CPS #1,3,& 8. Second scan with black CPS #5. Between the 2 scans all the injectors were out and did not go back in the same spot (other than #8).
I unplugged each injector one at a time while running, every time it ran worse and you could see the oil discharge quit. When running with the VC's off they all spit oil evenly.
I have swapped out 3 different CPS's (2 blacks and a gray) and it runs the same with each.
I pulled all 8 injectors one had a bad o-ring so I replaced all the o-rings. I had them bench tested (Nozzle Masters in Orlando) and they said they were all good. They also scanned the truck when it was back together and said nothing on the scanner was out of the norm.
I replaced the ICP because when I unplugged it the truck ran the same (also had some oil in the plug)
UVCH was replaced few years ago, still looks good and tightly connected.
Replaced EBPS and cleaned tube (had good reading from the scanner).

My truck is a 2001 with a little over 188k.
Mods are: 6637, Zoodad, 6-Pos TS, 203* Thermo, 4" MBRP w/ Aeroturbine, Bellowed Up Pipes, Turbomaster Wastegate, non-EBPV pedestal & outlet, Plenum Inserts, AIH Delete, Intercooler boots, Overboost Annihilator, Wicked Wheel, Stancor Glow Plug Relay, and HXP. The tuner is currently unplugged.

The injectors are stock rebuilds about 3 years ago (<10k), the HPOP was replaced less than 2 years ago, the turbo was rebuilt 8 months ago, and the PCM was replaced about 4 years ago.


I would also be interested in troubleshooting ideas or suggestions.
I know the IPR is another area to consider but don’t want to just keep buying parts.
Thanks in advance, Michael.

Mine does the same thing. Hope to get an an answer too.

Is yours doing the exact same thing?
What kind of troubleshooting have you done?

Same thing. I have not tried to find problem yet.

Ok, I will let you know whatever I find out.

I did purchase an IPR rebuild kit from DieselOrings.com and will try that next just to see. But it doesnt replace the electrical components of it...

Did you ever find out what your issue was?:humm: I am also in Orlando, ready to take mine to an expert also. One in Groveland I know of.

No not yet. I am going to rebuild the IPR this weekend. But I really think it has to be an injector, even though they checked out "ok" on a bench test.

What kind of issues are you having?
What is the shop in Groveland and what have you heard about them?

My issues are cold starting, I had replaced the glow plugs already and the wiring harness, but that did not fix the problem. I had already replaced the glow plug relay but did find that it was not working so I replaced that again just the other day. Seems better for cold starts without having to plug it in. This is Florida ya know!!
I also have a major oil leak, especially when it is cold outside. I believe that this is coming from the "engine oil cooler" O-rings and seals, got this info from Central Fla. Trucks in Groveland. Next I will start looking into replacing the injectors since it is running like 6 cylinders in the morning until it warms up for 15 minutes! They are original injectors and have 297k, so I am certain they need to be replaced.
Truck place in Groveland? I have only had 2 instances where he has spent time with me on the phone talking about my issues and he has been very helpful. Both times he was "spot on" with the needed fix! Usually, if someone can trouble shoot with you over the phone, and will take the time to speak with you, return your calls, then they understand trucks and have my trust. I have never taken my truck in to have him do the work, mostly because it is 50 ,miles away(1 way) and I feel if my truck I going to be broke down in somebody's shop, if I can do the work myself, then I am better off fixing it myself. As long as I don't break something else in the mean time! LOL

I have an 01 Excursion having the same problems. If I do not plug in the block heater when it sits more a few hours, it will stop running. Very hard to restart and runs like a bag of a$$holes for 10-15 minutes. It still "surges" when warm. In damp weather it cuts off completely. If there is enough momentum it comes back to life and about takes out a u joint. It has cutoff many times, but always restarts without issue, if its warmed up. Help!

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BTW, I did have the glow plug controller go bad. Codes showed even numbered glow plugs failed. That was relatively painless. This other thing really is driving me nuts.

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Yeah, I have never had a cold start problem. But if its better when you plug it in then you are probably talking about something in the glowplug path (wires, ground, the plug, relay, etc).

I didnt get around to pulling the IPR but will do for sure this weekend. Although I really do think its an injector. If you get injectors I would go with Rosewood.

The latest bug is fuel leak. Not the top of the filter housing, but in that area. Brake cleaned it and cannot tell where its coming from. Leaves a puddle in the valley. Could this be the culprit? Leaking while running and possibly allowing air in while shut off?
Its been real cold. The block heater really helps.

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This has probably been solved hundreds of times on here. My leak was from the fuel filter housing drain valve o rings. I know, huge surprise. Have OEM Ford ICP sensor on the way. I will let you know if things improve, once it's changed.

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After replacing the glow plug relay I never have any problems starting in the morning without block heater block heater only warms up the water does not warm up the oil probably an injector issue have you checked your glow plugs and your harness under the valve cover? Sometimes the wiring harness will come unplugged through the valve cover and this will cause the truck to stumble or run on only one bank

I have been under the valve covers. Quarters are cut and installed.
It was 60 this morning. Did not plug in block heater. Engine started just like it should. It maybe a couple minutes. I hit a hill on my street and halfway it starts to stumble and miss and then stall. I hit the glow l
plugs again and it restarted after about a full minute of cranking. Stumbled as soon as any throttle was applied. Did this three times. 3 rd time I ran the engine for 10 minutes before it seemed ok. Put it in drive and its back to normal. Still surging but no stumbling or stalling.
I have the orings for the fuel water drain valves on the way. Could it be picking up air? Why does it only do this before the engine is warmed up. Block heater or 10 minutes of running.

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Yeah the UVCH will make it run like garbage, had it happen to me. Twice. For the most part you can visually see the harness unplugged when you have the valve covers off. Then you can do the 50 cent mod if the connector is just unplugged and not burnt.

Its pretty easy to check the glow plug path with a multimeter. Many posts on how to ohm them out.

Also, have you figured anything out with the fuel leak? Air in there will cause it to run rough and/or hard to start. Also maybe you got water in there, have you drained it? You can get a fuel bowl rebuild kit from DieselORings.com, it pretty much covers all the common places the fuel system wears out. I have rebuilt mine, I also had the line that feeds the passenger side head get a pin hole in it from rubbing/vibration. But that was not a small leak.

How does the truck run when its all warmed up? After the bad 10-15 min when it runs real bad.

I am sure the glow plugs are functioning ok. When I had the controller go bad, it had lots of blue smoke.
Once it warms up, I can beat most cars away from a red light. Except for the intermittent surging and rare thing where it cuts off completely(usually in wet conditions), it runs smoothly and with power to spare.
I should have the o rings today. I will let everyone know when the leak is fixed. I am not too optimistic, though.

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I would track down the fuel leak thing. Can you actually see where its leaking?

Also, one time I was having this big problem with my truck starting/running when we were having tons of rain (florida) and it turned out to be my CPS was getting water in it. Changed it out and it ran great.

Its definitely the water drain valve o rings on the back side of the filter housing. Tough to see. Brake cleaned everything and used a mirror to look at it with engine running. Very common leak. There are at least 3 YouTube videos of guys showing where to look and the steps and pieces to repair it.
Parts are in the Priority Mail.

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Ok thats good.

If it was me I would just pull the whole fuel bowl and rebuild the whole thing. Its not that many more steps and gives you more room to do it all on the bench. My fuel line o-rings were at least 50% worn out.

Leaks fixed. Seems to run better. I am still afraid to leave the block heater unplugged overnight. Its so nice to be able to start it and drive away. Plus the heat is already there for cold days. New ICP sensor is in the mail. I will change it, again. The new non- OEM replaced a leaking one. And it leaks too. Hopefully, the fomoco version will last as long as the original. Almost 300k.

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BTW, professor foam is the man. His drain valve rebuild kit for under $5 worked fine. Includes the 3 o rings in viton. Supposed to last better than the green OEM buna N ones. Mine made past 300k. I guess that's pretty good.

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Glad its working better for you. I think I need to pull my #5 injector this weekend...

Tried it without the block heater. Same old! Ended up at the bottom of the hill, restarting about 4 times, plus 10 minutes of warm up time to finally get up the hill. ICP sensor should be here today. Maybe?? Block heater is plugged in, so I should be able to start it & drive away.

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I dont think it will be the ICP. They will run with them unplugged.

What kind of temps are you talking? Its back to the 80s here in Florida...

It was about 45. Should not have been an issue.

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BTW. Take 01Platinums advice. Remove the filter housing to service the water drain leak. By the time I finished my right hand looked like I was attacked by cat. About 20 bleeding scratches on the back. That was with 8 mil gloves on! Gloves were not punctured, either.

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New FoMoCo ICP sensor installed. It did not effect the need for a warm engine to run properly. It did feel like most of the surging was gone. Partial success. I am trying to reach a guy with the advanced diagnostic equipment to do a ride along with it plugged in and monitoring. In the mean time, I will continue to use the block heater to keep it warmed up.

Im pretty sure mine will crank right up at 45 even if I dont let the glow plugs run. I would say you might have an air (or water) in the fuel system issue.

Especially if its worse on a wet day. That or an electrical issue.

10 min of driving to reprime/purge the system? But I guess that wouldnt explain why keeping it plugged in would help...

Yeah, been there, done that! Water drain valve o-rings, uh huh! Small fuel leak in the valley! Major fuel leak was the steel line on the passenger side! In Florida also Nd same issue with the block heater. Runs great after warms up, 15-20 minutes. Always have left it in the driveway idling before departure. Done the GPR recently, again! Thinking that it must be a injector. 298k on originals.
Platinum, just wondering how you determined injector #5? Can't afford the Rosewoods you recommended, but I am thinking about all 8!

I am beginning to get a better feel for what happens when it stalls. It feels like it runs out of fuel. If there is some momentum, with very light throttle, I can keep it going and it will "catch up". Depends on how cold the engine. It can be deceiving. It always starts on the first try, but once you have tried to accelerate or get up a hill, if it not warmed up, it may take 3-4 periods of cranking for 30-60 minutes to get it to run on a few cylinders at first and add cylinders the longer it runs.

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But then its good once its warm? And is it only on hills?

Yes. Once it is warmed up, there is no shortage of power. But, until it warms up, even the slightest pressure on the throttle and it noses over or stalls. Sometimes by babying the throttle, it will stay running after stumbling and dropping cylinders. Hills just amplify the problem when cold.

It acts like it got a big gulp of air in the fuel and by babying the throttle, it will eventually work its way out. Kind of like when you change a fuel line or filter. Starts ok, runs rough, then ok after a period of running. But this takes longer and until warmed up, it will not go away.

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Might be the fuel pickup in the tank. They have been known to have problems. I have replaced mine.

I saw a thread or video once where a guy added a clear hose to the fuel line to watch and see if air is in fact entering the line... might be worth a shot.

Pulled 3 codes p1000, p0475 and p0683. Do those shed any light. The p0475 code is always in. I am running the Econoline turbo pedestal.

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The p1000 means a test didnt complete. Sposta clear out from driving after you have the codes pulled. Yeah you will prob always get the 0475 with that pedestal, I get the P0476 because I have the delete pedestal. The P0683 points back to the glow plugs or glow plug relay. I replaced my relay with the Stancor one.
Welcome to guzzle's Stancor GPR replacement Mod Web Page

Have you tested out each of the Glow Plugs or the Relay?

I did it to me yesterday. In spite of it being 60 degrees, I had been parked, in the sun, for about 5 hours. Started fine, very very easy on the throttle, I made to the entrance to the interstate. Hit the pedal, and in a few seconds it nosed over and quit. Pulled out of the way, hit the glowplug again, restarted, minus a few cylinders and I sat for about 5 minutes, until the temp gauge made to the sweep area, or low end of normal temps. Gently eased it up to 70 and had no indication of any issues. Full power after that. Its like a switch( sensor) changes state and the fuel delivery goes from virtually none to full volume. Is there a temperature switch/ detector that changes state around 100 degrees H2O temp? :scare2:

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I have replaced the glowplug controller and checked all of the wiring. When the controller died, I had codes for one bank of the engine and lots of blue smoke. Now it just acts like it can't get enough fuel for more than slightly off idle, unless the block heater has been plugged in or it warms up for 5-10 minutes. Just seems to change as soon as its warm enough. Have done fuel filter multiple times, too.

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Another code appeared. P0670.

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Did research. P0670 is glow plug control module malfunctioning. Only on Excursions. One nice thing, if there is a bad glow plug, it knows which one(s).

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if your still looking for a shop, there is
whites diesel 941-468-1710 in nokomis.
powerstroke performance 239-338-8137 in fort meyers.
grays diesel 904-449-5917 in jacksonville
diesel cartel 954-691-8977 in pompano beach

I hate to admit this but, an oil change seems to have eliminated most, if not all, of the "running out of fuel" on a cold start. I got a new case of amsoil filters and did the oil change Saturday. I use the bypass filter arrangement. Let it sit outside for several hours without block heater. Started and drove away with medium throttle, then heavy throttle without being forced to restart the engine. Jumped in Sunday afternoon, no problem. Monday morning, temp about 38 and started slightly hard, but drove away, up the hills with no sign of the previous issue.
Question: What could be worn out or plugged to cause the cold stalling and lack of fuel which goes away with an oil and filter change or properly warmed engine?

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My SD did the same thing, at 1500rpm it would buck.

Have you looked at the small filters that are inside the fuel sending unit, inside the tank? My truck would run fine for a while and then run out of fuel....sit for 30min or so and start back up.....sometimes I would crack the filter housing and she would start up. Turns out that those filters were caked with bacterial sludge. I bought the Driven Diesel Pre Pump Filter to eliminate these in tank filters and everything is perfect.

Was perfect I should say, now the engine cut out while driving like someone turned off the key and will not start. See my earlier post. Still need some ideas!

Mine dies the cut off thing too. Usually in wet conditions, but not always. If I have momentum, it will refire but feels like I got rear ended. Always restarts immediately after. Does that bucking surging thing all the time, except under full acceleration. I will try to find the energy to inspect and replace the tank filter. At 312k it could be time to replace. Plus the truck has had a few periods of no activity. Stagnant fuel is the enemy and that slime will form on the slightest trace of water.

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Codes p1000, p0238, p0475, p0478 & p0683 were in. Cleared and will watch again. Still running fine when cold with or without glow plugs.

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After several days of starting without use of the block heater, the truck has been starting and running great. Then yesterday that cutting out in wet weather appeared multiple times. It was very rainy. Usually it happens when I am at speed and it refires almost instantly. Once, while parked, a minute or so after starting, it cut off while sitting in a parking lot. Restarted without issue. Any ideas? I did get a p0344 code since the last time I cleared out the codes. And 0683 &0670, for which I have no description. Anyone heard of the cam position sensor being effected by wet conditions? It has been replaced, but that does not mean its still good. Any advice on which brand cps is bad or good?

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Did some searching and found several Excursion/ Superduty 7.3 with engine cutting off issues. The wet condition issue threw me off the trail. Until, its leading to a poor ground directly effected by....the intermittent wiper operation. Seems that some sort of spike or other electrical phenomenon created while using the intermittent wipers causes confusion and the engine cuts off. But restarts either on it own when at speed or by key if standing still or going slowly. Now I have to find the proverbial needle on the haystack. One suggestion is the body to chassis connection. Hopefully someone has been there... And can lead me to some ground connection points, so I don't have to remove all of the dashboard and interior.

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This is ironic. The intermittent engine cutting off may be caused by the intermittent wipers

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UPDATE - FIXED

I went back to the shop (Nozzle Masters) here in Orlando who tested the injectors out of the truck to have it scanned again. They didnt get anything on the scanner so they brought out this sweet tool to help troubleshoot it. It plugged right into my harness (the one with the 8mm bolt in it) then it had 8 buttons so you could shut off each injector one at a time. Each time the truck stuttered at little bit till we got to injector #5, there was no change when it was turned off.

Got a new injector and swapped it out. Now she is back to running like a top.

I am about pull out the injectors. On a trip, just ran 600 miles issue free. Topped off the tank and it restarts on 5 or 6 cylinders. Terrible miss. Barely able to maintain 50mph. Took about 10 miles to clear out. Its OK now, but something is still messed up. At 319k, its probably overdue for a rebuild of the injectors and associated pieces. Debating switching to a Cummins w/ adaptor and a 5R110.

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