Question about California trucks
 

While working on my truck today I noticed the tag on the passenger side valve cover said: "engine is certified for sale in California in new vehicles rated above 14,000 GVWR, engine is OBD II exempt." So does this mean I have a California truck or do all 7.3s tag say that. Plus what does OBD II exempt mean? Also any links on diffenances between California and normal trucks.

Thanks everybody

i don't know on the 7.3's but on the 6.leakers there was some programming differences between a 49 state and a CA truck along with some slightly different emissions junk. there also might have been less power output on a CA truck.

The tag read 215hp at ?rpms but as far as emission stuff it'd be hard to tell since I got this truck I had to swap exhaust and unless it's programmed diffrent I can't tell what else would be there for emission stuff.
Anybody know if the Cali trucks were split shot injectors vs. single shot (thought I read that somewhere)
Any ideas if I can decode the VIN to see or if I need to try and find an engine ID number.

Cali trucks were split shot AB injectors... Roughly 120cc

There are a few ways to tell if your truck is a cali truck... One way is to look between the fuel pump and the turbo and if it has a black diaphram on top of the fuel fitting (looks like a little space ship) it is a cali model. Another way is to remove a valve cover and if it has AB code injectors, you will know its a cali model.

Yup, 96 and 97 OBS came with AB injectors (split shot) which gave them (weird) more HP then the fed trucks with AA injectors (90cc)... Also from 99 on the cali 7.3's came with a damn Glow Plug Controler rather then a Glow plug relay!

Well judging by all the info and the following pics I don't think mines a Cali truck - just trying to find out for repair /mod purposes

No "spaceship" unless I'm looking in the wrong spot
http://i1025.photobucket.com/albums/...ford/pump3.jpg
http://i1025.photobucket.com/albums/...ford/pump2.jpg
http://i1025.photobucket.com/albums/.../ford/pump.jpg

No shunt on the GPR
http://i1025.photobucket.com/albums/.../ford/GPR2.jpg

And a black engine tag - guess the Cali's were blue
http://i1025.photobucket.com/albums/...nginetag-1.jpg

Just still trying to figure out the for sale in Cali and OBD II exempt parts, since my truck is 8800 GVWR and the tag is for 14000GVWR

Looks like a 49 state truck with that valve cover tag and a regular glow plug relay with no shunt on it...

The "space ship" fuel dampener will be straight behind (towards the firewall) the fuel bowl and underneath that intake spyder if it is indeed a cali model.

The valve cover tag might not mean much though because it looks like that engine has been painted yellow at some point.

do you not have a pre filter?

That is not the motor that came with that truck... Hard to say what it is, but I would bet its a bus motor someone swapped in. Could even have AC injectors in it.

I was told the origonal owner pulled the motor to put a new oil pan on and painted the motor. but who knows. I have a number (TNV7.3C8DAAA) from the tag thats under the International name, going to see if it turns up anything. Where would I look for say an engine serial number to see what it is. Would a bus motor bolt to a e4od without some mods?

As for the pre filter ya lost me-pre filter on what?

It would bolt up with the adapter shim off of the old motor and changing the oil pan and pick up...

Best thing to do would be pull a valve cover and see what injectors are in it.

Great another weekend trying to fix somebody elses ghetto fixes. God they need a sarcasm thing on these forums.

THe Badlands. lol

my 94 and 97 have the black cone prefilter on the side of the fuel bowl. maybe i just cant see yours. its hanging off the regulator or whatever its called

i dont think it has ACs in it. my valve covers said 215hp@3000rpm

I'm just gonna pull a valve cover off when I get time - theres to many people who say yes and even more saying no. I don't recall seeing anything else on the fuel bowl but I'll look harder tomarrow plus now that I know the fuel pump is under the spider I'll check for the "spaceship" to at least end the single vs split shot question.

Just pull one valve cover. You just need to see what code injectors you have.

Just afraid to - every time I take something apart bolts have been rounded, crap messed up, etc since the PO didn't know a driveshaft from steering wheel. Thankfully the covers don't look like they have been touched.

I find the drivers side to be easier, Just pull the air intake, then pull all the vc bolts and botta bing. There will be a code on the top of the injector solenoid. It will either be AA or AB followed by a bunch of numbers.

i know another difference betweem the cali spec and 49 state trucks is the spring in the FPR. the fuel pressure was bumped up on the cali models. there is a seperate part number for the cali spec fpr kit. i came across this looking for info on doing a fpr shim, and someone listed the different part numbers. im not sure what the difference is pressure is, but i will probably be buying the cali spec spring to help smooth out my idle..

oh.. and another thing i just remembered - the timing is different for engines that use single shot vs split.. one uses 1 degree advance timing while the other uses 11 degrees.. the chip in the pcm also has different programming. the water outlet on the water pump on the school bus motors is also on the opposite side of ours, but i would imagine if the motors were swapped they would have changed over to our style pump to make connecting to the radiator easy/normal .

well the T444E in a school bus is international. in a ford, it's powerstroke. it's slightly different. and i believe the water pump is different. ford changed some parts so you couldn't go to international for everything and get parts cheaper.

Incorrect...

The timing on ANY POWERSTROKE is the same, and dynamic. It is not set at one point...

courtesy of DIESELPOWER magazine :

Split-Shot vs. Single-Shot:
For emissions purposes, 7.3Ls built for sale in California after April of 1996 came standard with split-shot injectors (AB codes as opposed to AA), which flowed approximately 130 cc of fuel (on a 1,000-count test). By converting to AC-code single-shot injectors, considerable gains in power can be had, as they flow 160 cc of fuel. And because only one injection event occurs (as opposed to a split-shot event), they also require less high-pressure oil to fire.

It should be noted that all of the following modifications can also be performed on all '94 to '97 Power Stroke engines. With a few quick phone calls, a set of single-shot injectors was on the way, as well as a new 17-degree high-pressure oil pump and some fuel system upgrades. While under the hood at John Wood Automotive in Holtville, California, we also took the time to perform a little preventative maintenance on the old Power Stroke.

Tuning For Single-Shot Injectors
One of the most important things to keep in mind when going from split-shot injectors to single-shot units is tuning. To be specific, it's in the timing. Split-shot engines typically use 1 degree of timing advance at idle, while single-shot engines require 11 degrees. After our install was complete, we pulled the F5 chip attached to the powertrain control module (PCM) and had John Wood Automotive reburn it with DP Tuner's programming, which allowed the new, single-shot injectors to work problem-free both at idle, and on the throttle.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

and before anyone says im wrong about the FPR springs, here:

Fuel Pressure Regulator Repair Kit (contains spring, valve spool & new brass plug)
(Ford) F5TZ-9K061-A (federal emissions; 94-98)
(Ford) F6TZ-9K061-AA (CA emissions; engine serial no. 201681-98)

Fuel Pressure Regulator Spring
(International) 1823643-C1 (federal emissions; 94-98
(International) 1825854-C1 (CA emissions; engine serial no. 201681-98

WOW a damn near year old thread brought back and causing an argument. :lol88: that damn truck still causes problems even after I sent it's worthless azz packing.

not arguing.. just giving sources and information.. its not like i made the stuff up myself..

You are correct about the cali fpr, I have one.

I think you are about to get schooled on the timing issue.:pca1:

i have noticed that the articles in DIESELPOWER aren't exactly accurate. but let the schooling begin :pca1:

If its in a magazine it has to be true. Gale banks its the king of diesel performance isn't he?

LOL... Can someone please help me adjust the timing wheel on my powerstroke? I am now running single shot injectors in my split shot motor and I never adjusted the timing wheel...

The timing (I'll repeat it so its clear...) the TIMING on a powerstroke is dynamic. It is not set. Anyone that tells you there powerstroke is running 1* of timing, or 11* of timing or 18* of timing has no idea what they are talking about. This is NOT a mechanically injected motor.

Your free to believe whatever Diesel Power tells you, however it is wrong.

Rofl,sometimes the basics of diesel injection should be considered before opening the of the mouth. This is more common sense then diesel physics honestly...
Better define dynamic csipsd lol

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

well shoot guys, i put AA's from a 97 PS in my 94 PS, i think i need to adjust to 7* :spit:

static = stationary
dynamic = not stationary

well i suggest you write to the editors of the magazine that usually deal direct with the programmers and engineers themselves, before they write articles. i would also assume that info came from the company that provided the new programming for their build. i came to look for info and to attempt to help someone else out. didnt know id have the moderator lead a stoning.. good job on attracting new members btw, i will be sure to upgrade my membership now.

since everyone else is clearly experts i will refrain from trying to help anyone else, and will also discontinue my reading since its aparently not a good way to learn. lastly i will point out that myself, and the article, were mentioning the difference in timing advance at idle, and might also explian why they say, " allowed the new, single-shot injectors to work problem-free both at idle, and on the throttle" , implying that the timing changes from one to the next.

so unless your claiming that the timing is dymanic while at a constant rpm (idle), i still see nothing wrong with this info.

the No. one thing you need to change is tuning...

While the help is appriciated posting in a nearly year old thread is, IMO, a waste of time because most people have either figured out the problem, found the info they were after or got tired of the issue and sold the truck. (I found out mine was a federal truck and a complete POS due to the PO and sold the truck after it gave up on me and I was tired of dumping $$ into it)

CSIPSD is a good guy and a heap of info but he is a little rough around the edges and is pretty blunt but so what? You learn to deal to deal with it.

You get contradicted and get all butt hurt - that's not going to help you or anyone else, just let it roll off your back and move on.

and btw 11 - 1 is not 7 .. so maybe you should back off seeing as how you dont even know where the sensors on you fuel bowl are..

gotta love the forums where the moderator leads an attack on the new members.. so if your all going to join in, make sure you all know your info.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

as i agree with some of what you say, i however do not agree about bringing back older posts. i thought the point of the site holding onto them in the first place, was so that people have a data base to search when they do need info, which is how this turned up to begin with. just because the info that myself, or anyone else , doesnt happen to be on the first 3 pages, doesnt mean i should start a new post instead of building off of an existing one. most times when people do that, guys jump in and complain about the OP not searching.
regardless of how much info someone may or may not know, theres no reason to have a power trip about it, as i have already reminded one of the guys they may not know just as much as they think they do in another thread.

These are discussion boards, if you are not willing to accept criticism don't post.
If you had accepted the fact either your wording was wrong or your idea or concept was wrong. Get over it. I've been working on diesel trucks for atleast 7 years now and as any technician will tell you , everyday is a learning curve and you make mistakes. You may misunderstand a computers operation or you might not understand how something comes apart. The reality is a good technician or even diyer must be able to learn from every situation and accept correction. Take it as a lesson learned but don't act like a child about it

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

again - a discussion forum.. great how you jump on the bandwagon directing you comments to one person, but the 4 other guys that play "follow the leader" are right in doing so in your eyes. and btw im not the one acting like a child but im not about to bow down and just absord sarcasim. this is my last post here, and i will rethink becoming a paid memeber.

Just some things to think about.

Did I say anything about anyone else's post. What they so isn't anything to me

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk