New here and already have a problem. lol
 

Names Jon, I am a mechanic but the current situation I find myself in, well, I wish I had a degree as an attorney.

I am from PA and had a shop times got bad had to get a job. Know I am working in CA for a few months and my warranty is up. Love the truck hate the rep. Took the truck to a local place that works mostly on the power strokes. Had them install head studs and put the First Coast Diesel delete kit on and installed the 155 injectors. They said "Your trucks ready do you want us to put the rest of these parts on?" I said I can handle it. So I go to pick up the truck and The owner says to me "The trucks not running right and we don't know what it is."

Truck starts acts like it is running on 6 cylinders, warms up and runs almost right. hesitates bad lag, wants to stall. No soot but the exhaust is rather loud under the hood. I got the anti freeze and oil temp difference code. Tore into the motor and found that the factory y pipe was not cracked but the flange on the new replacement pipe was bent out of sorts. Explains the loudness and the turbo lag. Next came the intake... HAHAHA

So I must say Adam at First Coast Deisel carefully packs these things using tape over all those holes... You would think that it would be easy to remove it all. The inlet between to the intake for the coolant passage had 4 mil tape on it and had completely sealed the inlet and not ruptured at all. Explains the temp code. Now I have not gotten the truck together yet but I am worried the new head gaskets or the new heads might have cracked. Any ideas as to the why the truck runs and hiccups every where. I have a new IPR and ICP will be checking the hpop and the orings for leaks.

Thanks for any ideas...

I'm confused...

Is this YOUR truck, or this is a customer of your's truck? So he brought it to you, and you brought it to LCD? Is that right?

Sounds like LCD messed something up, why isn't it being brought back there?

Or did they do the work, the customer doesn't want to deal with them, and he brought it to you?

The more details you can give about why it went in, what it got done and what it's doing now, the better...

So how does the truck run now that you've figured out the exhaust leak and coolant blockage. I still don't follow where exactly the coolant flow was blocked, forgive me.

Is it still sounding like it's running on 6 cylinders? What tuning is being used to control the new sticks? Who's injectors are they? Heard similar horror stories with some no-name injectors.

First thanks for getting back to me. It is my truck, I took it to one of the local shops here in CA. I wont drop there name unless they don't take care of things as far as my time etc. They are my old injectors redone to 155's stock nozzle. Warren diesel did these. I am not running a tuner yet only because I haunt decided which to get. Leaning towards the Sct. As to why I wont let them pick it up to attempt to fix it? They had tried and given up. Asked me to let them know what's wrong with it. They also new I was a tech and that I had more parts and custom work to do my truck. When I get all the work done I will run it on the ids and if there is still an issue they will be picking up the truck. I have no faith in them to properly diagnose the problems after what I was told and what I already found.

Man it's tough to say.

Can you elaborate more on the 4 mil tape stuck on a coolant passage, I'm not quite following what happened there.

It sounds like the truck has never run correctly since the injectors were put in right? It's possible they weren't tightened down all the way. I would start with making sure all of the clips on the harness going to the injectors are fully seated, I've seen this a few times.

If you have IDS, this might be real easy to find... I would definitely try and figure this issue out BEFORE going further with other mods, you're just going to compound issues here I think. Let's get this resolved, then go on with other mods. Especially if this other shop is going to be at fault, once you do MORE work to it they're more than likely just going to pass the buck and say "look at all this other stuff you did, you probably messed it up"

Can you monitor ICP actual against ICP desired, and IPR % duty for us?

I doubt you blew gaskets or cracked a head in that tiny amount of time. Most drag guys hard fill their blocks and don't even use coolant in some cases so...


SCT for sure, nothing else is going to allow you to use those injectors properly and keep the trans alive while doing it. Custom tunes should come from Innovative Diesel, Gearhead, GoGo, Mike@KEM or someone like that. Name brand only here...

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Here are the pics. Thanks for the tip on the injectors. I will check that when I am checking all the hpop orings. We used my injectors for the build and they worked well before warren got them. The ficm was sent back to swamps and they checked it and put a microprocessor in it to eliminate the ficm code due to the higher voltage. Also put the 40 hp tune in it. I replaced the fan clutch and waterpump. Fan clutch was trashed and water pump impeller was about a 1/4" chewed up evenly on the face of it. The oil cooler is in good shape but I am replacing it while I have it torn down. Let me know if those pics don't work.

Pics work... how the fugg do you forget to remove the tape from that and install it, man would I be pissed. I would 100% without a doubt figure this out ASAP, and don't do any more "mods" to it until you do, because if something is fugged up, I'd be on the phone with that shop ASAP.

Ok, reading more, I'm comforted slightly more knowing you're using good people on this, ie Warren and Swamps. I didn't even know Swamps had something to eliminate the FICM code... interesting. Just so you know (you probably already do) it doesn't actually toss a check engine light, just a soft code if you pull it up on the scanner. Did you go with the 58V I'm assuming?

Sometimes those injector o-rings can be a pain to trace down, sometimes you'll see they're blatantly torn.

Being an 05, do you know if the STC fitting was done? What about the stand pipes and dummy plugs? If you have to dig into it again it might be a good idea to just replace this stuff, it's known failure points, Ford has upgraded all of them, and they're not expensive (relatively). STC fitting is like $50 or less, and the dummyplug/standpipe kit is like $120ish.

Nice quad by the way, have a c'dale quad all gncc ready. I will put some pics up tomorrow after I take some.

Most of the updates have been done but not by me. I tore into it a year or so ago after I had it to the dealer for a new turbo and an oil cooler. There was a bill with some other parts charges there that they said where needed for the warranty so I did not question them to hard. The hpop was done so really didn't look much farther though I bought a new kit and plan on installing it myself just to be certain I have the dummy plugs and the new stands and will check them out and replace them as well as the blue fuel spring.
I learned a long time ago that if you try to skimp on the quality of parts that is the same quality the job will turn out to be. That being said throwing money against a wall doesn't amount to much either. I believe the micro processor and the flash from swamps are relatively new. It is a 58v unit, will let you now how they work when I get them on.
I was actually amused, at first. They said "There was a lot of tape sorry I must have missed it." Then I was angry. Really???
I wonder what would have happened to me if my boss said Jon why is that 8,000.00$ compressor burnt up that you just installed and I said oh sorry I forgot to take the tape off the back of the oil pump.
As far as the mods I am done for now. I wanted to get everything finished at the heart of this motor before I put her back together. Turbo and tuner are the only thing on my agenda and that won't be until it runs right. Though I still have to polish and port match the inside of the headers. Oh forgot to mention I had the heads sent out and decked as week as checked for cracks and valve seals put in. They said everything looked good.
I have a hard time believing that not having a tuner on would make it run like that. Thats what they where thinking at the shop, guy says put in a new ficm, I have em on the shelf, and get a tuner thats sitting next to it and all your troubles will go away. I didn't say much... I just :ha: my butt off.

the good news is that there should be no damage done by that tape, yeah your oil got a little hotter than the coolant but it is the same as a clogged up oil cooler and there are people that have probably run for years with them like that, me included. I know of at least one shop that offers the intake with the water pasages sealed up, heads should be fine. how long has the truck run? you need to put a good 40 miles on it to get all the air out of the high pres. oil lines. Hopefully they went with stock Ford head gaskets, the black ox head gaskets are too thin and wll fail in short time, FYI, the stock head gaskets come with new standpipes, that is why I brought that up. Right now I'm leaning towards a injector problem, these injectors are alot harder to make right compared to other ones. If you find a loose injector pull it and replace the orings, there like $5 a set for each injector, that will definately cause problems and is hard to determine which injector it is because the combustion presure enters the fuel rail and can effect any injector on that side of the motor.

The truck was run for 60 miles by me. They ran it for about the same I was told. They also said that it already had upgraded dummy plugs and stands so they did not install new ones. I have to believe it is going to be orings or a loose injector because the truck ran great when it was dropped off. Got 16 miles to the gallon. Factory headgaskets where used. They told me the truck ran good when it was first started then slowly started to have a problem. It progressively ran worse for me when I picked up and brought it home. Ran it to work for 2 days to se if it would straighten up and the second day it would barely start. I live about five minutes from work and it was so hot when I parked it that it took about 5 hours to cool down enough to tear it apart when I got home the 2 day. They said they had gotten an injector code for 2 and 6 but when it first started they cleared the codes and they did not come back. There where no codes except fir the ficm code, due to the 58 volts, and a code for the Egr, due to the fact that there isn't an egr. One for the oil temp being different from the coolant.

Now we're getting somewhere. At least 2 and 6 are on the same bank. I think I'd be pulling that valve cover myself...

Yeah that was my thought. I will be tearing into that over the weekend. Hopping that the injectors are lose or the orings are bad and not the cups.

Could be one of the copper crush washers too. Bob mentioned it before, but I would inspect ALL 4 injectors on that bank, if one leaks it can simulate others having issues too with it leaking back into the "rail" if you want to call it.

All right I pulled both those injectors as well as the ipr and everything looks good. I am going to pull the other 2 on that side in a minute. Crush washers look good orings look good and are new bolts where tight. Ipr screen was mostly clean and not brocken but I have a new one to put in as well as an icp sensor and pigtail. Was looking at the injector wiring harness and one of the ficm side plugs is cracked. Will replace that as well. Talked to Warren Diesel and he wants me to send the two injectors that threw the code back to him. I tell you what he and swamps stand by there products all the way. I also ordered an sct tuner, believe its the 3000 part number with the custom written maps. got that so when I put this truck together and it runs right I can get new maps for the new turbo and fuel system.

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Hmm since I have your guys input for now, what turbo would you run with an automatic? Was leaning towards an 03 turbo from liberator diesel. He has them I believe they are his stage 1's. The way he explained them is they are a new turbo 2003 style with a modded wheel. Wasn't certain that would be better than a less expensive garret powermax but he also sells those at the same price as everyone else. I would rather buy something from someone on here if you recommend someone.

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That is a video of my truck when I picked it up I took it for the shop:pca1:, I was trying to be nice. It was warmed up and had some very bad turbo lag and was stumbling all over the place. Was thinking since orings and copper washers looked good maybe cups? Maybe this will help.

Might be an internal issue with the injector, it'll be interesting to see what Jesse says.

155's and a stock nozzle probably wont flow a ton, a powermax would be fine, or find an 03 turbo used on the forums.

Maybe look into the Mad stage 1 turbo too, it's cheaper than those and will outflow those.

Thanks for the info. Yeah these 155 shouldn't flow much I am buying a new injector every other week and will be having him run em up to 175 or 190 with bigger nozzles but that wont be for about 6 months should be running back to the east coast before then. Figured having these done would make things a bit more reliable. I still don't want to run a huge turbo. I will check out that mad stage one. I will pull this other side of injectors and see what I find...

155's can flow a decent amount, the stock size nozzles would be limiting it. Still an upgrade over stock though. If you plan on jumping up in size, the mad stage 1 or even the stage 2 might be a good choice. Check them out some time.

I will do you know there full name or better a website? I was searching bit havnt come up with anything.

It's basically one guy doing it himself, not sure they even have a website yet. He's on PSA. I'm trying to get him to come over here possibly. You send in a stock 6.0 turbo and $700 and you get your mad stage 1 back. It's a 6.0 stocker on the back side and machined to adapt the front half of a duramax turbo. Supposedly cleaning up better than the p-max and flows more on top. Also goes by MTW too (Mad turbo werks).

That sounds good will have to talk to him. Wonder what the bottom end loss would be? Generally it seems your power has a band width and when you make the top tougher the bottom weakens out. In a quad I would change stroke and cams to compensate for the larger bore carbs a little bit to get it to pull harder. Really don't have that option here.

It will spool like stock. It's still got the stock VGT setup from the back half of the turbo. Everyone is raving about them. It would be nice to see a map for this turbo, but if you start reading turbo maps you'll see some turbo's can still spool like stock and flow more on the big end. It's not a naturally aspirated carberated quad motor here, apples to oranges! haha.

Agreed lol. I have a bit to learn about the diesel's but I am a quick a pretty quick study. On that note I took the plugs out if the back of the head to intstall the crossover. Passenger side was easy pull threads where clean no dirt. Drivers side I thought I was going to snap it off when it finally came out full off dirt and crap. What is the best way to clean that with out getting a bunch of dirt into the cylinders? It was getting dark and assuming it doesn't rain I will open it back up tonight and mirror the passage to see the extent of damage. Drivers side is also the home for injectors 2 and 6 and those where the codes I was getting. Problem connected or no? Still havnt pulled passenger side injectors yet but hopefully tonight, time allowing or tomorrow if not.

I doubt it's an issue. Those plugs are usually super tight in the heads. Once you snapped it loose, did it thread out easy or could you hear it grinding etc? I can't imagine anything is actually IN the threaded area. Not really a good way to clean that out unless you had the head off the truck.

Are you putting a regulated return in, or just that x-over line?

Cross over line for now and later I will split that and run a return. I pulled all the injectors all seem good unless they have an internal issue. Pulled the exhaust manifolds to start the process of cleaning up the ports polishing and wrapping them the bolts on cylinder 2 where good and tight but the bolts on 6 where almost finger loose couple on the passenger side could have stood a torque wrench as well.
Put the gaskets up to the drivers side ports on the motor to check if they would be a good template and they are and noticed cylinder 4, 6, and 8 looked good but cylinder 2 was wet very very wet... now the truck hasn't had batteries in it for weeks and hasn't been moved or turned over etc etc. What would cause the exhaust cylinder to have oil/diesel all around it? not just at the bottom but all the way around it? I will take pictures tomorrow and figure out if its oil or diesel.
The shop I had it to had the heads sent out to a good machine shop and checked for cracks and bad valves and guides, there where no issues and I said to put seals in it why we where there. All keepers are in place and there don't seem to be any issues with a bent pushrod though I am thinking of checking the seals and will physically check the pushrods then. Also remember that, cylinder 2, was one of the injector codes that was being thrown out that and cylinder 6. Unless I have forgotten everything drivers side front cylinder nearest the headlights is cylinder 2 right? :s:

Maybe injector cup?

Yes, that is cylinder 2. I really never read/hear about injector cups on these trucks. Sure it wasn't just an exhaust leak?

Yeah was doing a lot of research here and everywhere and that doesn't seem to be a common issue. That exhaust port being saturated is most Likely from a sticking injector that's wide open. Warren is going to test these add new 30% nozzles and the truck should be good to go.:jump: I will let you know what he finds out. Gotta get some new exhaust gaskets. Lol

Deffinatly diesel fuel in the exhaust port!

Probably just that injector then I'm guessing.

These injectors can't really stick "wide open" like a common rail, but the nozzles can crack and allow fuel to dump in like that. Or it might have just been sticking really bad and dumping fuel at the wrong time causing poor burn situations.

Might not hurt to get an oil analysis sample done to see if your oil has been diluted with fuel at all too.:c:

Finally able to get on the site... Anyway I changed the oil about fifteen miles before I tore it down. would it still be worthwhile to drain some and send it off? If so to whom do I send it? If the nozzle had cracked would I be able to see it? I didn't see anything like that. They are in a box and getting overnighted tomorrow morning. They will test em and put 50% over nozzle this time. :jump: We will see what he says...

Seriously!? the packing tape was actually left on during assembly? :ouch:

I'm sure Jesse will take care of you on the injectors.

Yeah, packing tape! Crazy isnt it.

I am sure he will take care of the injectors as well! He stands by his work! Does good work as well! Gotta pull that glow plug just to make certain it's not damaged.

he got em
 

He just got the injectors see what he finds out next week. Got the y pipe, down pipe, the pipe right after that, and the exhaust manifolds wrapped and painted. What a pain in the eye, yeah I wasn't wearing safety glasses when I cleaning the factory ridges and seems off the manifolds. Did some digging and research and found a good 2000 degree silicon paint ford blue. Should look good on the wrap.:tu: I will post some pics when I put the headers and pipes in tomorrow.

Who is the best at building tunes for the sct? I don't want any problems so I might as well start right.

Gonna run a cover on the turbo and on the intercooler piping from Heat Shield products. Running the cfm plus large mouth intake and pipe. Think it would be worth while covering the afe stage 2 intake pipe? Maybe insulate the box that the filter and battery will sit in?:humm:

exhaust
 

Here the exhaust just got it all put back in.

Nice. Wonder how much it will help with spool up? Interesting.

When we used to wrap our four wheeler head pipes, we'd soak the wrap in water first to loosen it up, then wrap it as tight as possible, and when it dried out it tightened right up. Then we'd spray a high temp sealer/clear coat over it to help prevent it from getting soaked when we rode in wet conditions. When it got wet repeatedly without that, it would actually rot the exhaust apart. Even good stainless systems. I doubt a truck would have these issues though.

Yeah soaking it with water helps it tighten up real good. Same paint just blue. Any ideas on who the best tuner for the sct would be? I will let you know about the spool up that's why I wrapped em! Headers where a pain in the butt though.

I've always wanted to ceramic coat mine (the inside, like it's supposed to be done).

Innovative Diesel
GoGo
Gearhead

All good tuners.

injectors are coming back him
 

Well... good thing I didn't erase the chalk board talked to warren today. injectors where solid. Got 50% nozzles why they where there. Though I forgot to ask him if he tested before or after the nozzles. I am thinking of putting it together when i get the injectors on friday and starting it up.

The drawing board says:
truck started hard banged a bit then kinda smoothed out after five or 10 minutes of sitting at idle. then ran like it had a bad miss would sometimes stall.
There was a lot of pressure coming out of the oil fill tube,
injectors where tight, so it seemed, ringes looked good, no extra copper washers and the looked good.
injector codes on #2 and #6 same bank,
#2 exhaust port was the only wet port after 3 weeks of letting the truck sit. All others had been firing.
drivers side exhaust manifold had some loose bolts in it. new gaskets and some customization
flange on factory y pipe was bent which was replaced with a long y pipe.
wet substance in exhaust port smelled like diesel.
ficm was sent to swamps and tested good.
ipr screen clear replaced ipr anyway 160k on it ya know.
icp sensor seemed ok though it was also hi mileage so I replaced that
all updates have now been changed or completed. sct, stands, dummy, blue fuel spring, turbo drain and oil tubes.
changed the oil and filter again cause of the oil temp sensor.
took out crappy cheap fuel filter and installed motor craft. did have a good bit of water in there when I drained it.

hmmm big ticket items unburnt fuel down in exhaust port lots of pressure coming out of fill tube and ccv. What do you think?
I have installed some gauges hpop, oil temp, and pyro.
I am thinking pull glow plug on #2 and #6 and see what they look like.

Saw your truck isn't running up to par whats goin on?

I just stopped into the dealer to look at my last work order, which was right before it went to the shop for the delete and studs. I saw that there where 2 glow plug codes, cylinder 2 and 6... Pain in the butt not remembering that stuff. :argh: I figured since both glow plug harness's where mangled a bit I would replace em, and the glow plugs. Can't believe a glow plug would cause the problem with the cylinder no fire and the fuel in the exhaust port on the head. Thought diesels fired on compression? even if the glow plug didn't get hot enough wouldn't it pick up after a few rotations when compression heated things up? Need a class on this I guess...

They do fire on compression, but if the glow plug is also a sealing point, meaning if it's loose it will leak compression as well.

Glow plugs are cheap for these, but use motorcraft only and make sure you get them for the correct year, they were different lengths, so if you get a long one where a short is needed, it will hit the pistons.

I replaced all 8, and the harness's. Tig rod bent just right and the harness pops right off. Used all motor craft. tried to start it tonight cranked and cranked but not even a rough hint of a start. gonna check the ficm after I recharge the batteries make sure it , A. have voltage and B. umm did I hook it up right! I don't think you can plug it in wrong but with my luck lol. how long should this truck crank before it fires? Nothing appears to be leaking. Gonna double check the ipr wires and make sure they are on right.