Turbo hose blows off
 

I have a f350 4x4 06'. the blue silicone hose next to the turbo going to the intercooler blows off when I tow uphill for an extended amount of time. I only tow that way about twice a year, and ford has never been able to tell me why it happens. I had the Banks big hoss bundle on it. Ford kept blaming that, so I took it off. except for the exhaust. Still happens. My turbo blew up after about a month of owning the truck, Might have been from me towing a 34' 5th wheel and 18' ski boat up a large grade doing 70mph, but not sure. I hope this is enough info to get started. thanks

This common, the boots can get saturated with oil and pop off easy, I clean them with brake clean, the boots and tubes, then reinstall, Ford sells upgraded boots that hold on better, there are other manufactuers that sell better ones too.

Common issues with worn boots. We sale upgraded boots with SS clamps.

Luke

Don't you just love it when the dealership points to the aftermarket part that has NOTHING to do with the problem!?! :argh:

As previously mentioned, the crank case vent goes into the charge tube above the driver side valve cover. About the only real fix is to re-direct it somewhere more useful, like over the rear u-joint.

I've had a Banks elbow and Techni-cooler on mine for a couple of years without issue. I'd put the Banks Techni-Cooler back in (esp if it came with the elbow and larger plumbing), clean things up as suggested, and re-route the crank case vent if it persists after cleaining.

Ok, thanks for the response. So I have to clean the connection points of the hoses before every trip? Thats a horrible design. I have the ok to put the banks intercooler, ram air, and six gun tunner back in?

If it were mine, I'd clean them good, install, tighten good, see what happens. If the problem persisited, I would look at redirecting the CCV. If the truck wasn't bought new, I would also investigate why it had so much blow by. I bought my Banks used, did a wipe with a rag, threw it in, pounded 25~30 psi of boost, no problems. I've run it on Edge Hot, IDP Xtreme and Gear Head's SRL tunes.

I don't know if there is a valve like a PCV in the valve cover, but I do know that's where the oil comes from. Furthermore, I don't know if there is a baffle in the 6.0 valve cover, but, it's been my gasser experience that if there is no baffle in the valve cover under the breather it blows oil like its cool. Sometimes fixes on gassers work on diesels, they are pushrod oil burners afterall.

I keep a spare boot in my service truck for that application. The oil deteriorates the rubber/silicone and it continually pops off. As the truck weighs 17,500 lbs, its like pulling a trailer everyday, and it's very seldom it's driving at under 10 PSI boost. IMO, the best option is to remove the old boot, clean everything really well, and install a new one.

You're not making anywhere enough boost to be blowing these off repeatedly, clean the boots, clean the connection points and reinstall. If it blows off again, get new boots, clean them, reinstall. You shouldn't have any issues after that. As far as the crank case vent re-route, that's your call. I haven't found the need to do it yet, some guys do it, others don't. You shouldn't have to clean them after every trip, you just need to clean it after every time it pops off, and it shouldn't be popping off repeatedly. The banks tube doesn't really do anything, even though it's larger diameter, it still necks down at the connection points. Probably want to look at getting rid of that 6 gun too, especially with what you're telling us you tow. Get an SCT with some good custom tow tunes, it will be leaps and bounds better than that Banks stuff. Your transmission will thank you. :c:

In my case, the truck does make about 28psi. It's usually around 20 that it will blow off. Even when I wire the tube to the turbo and alternator bracket for support. I have found that once it blows once, it's time for a new one. When I didn't have a spare, I re-installed one 5 times on a trip up a logging road. Wired or, not, it kept blowing.

I have replaced the tube about 10 times, (the silicone one)pretty much after each blow off. While I had the banks, they (banks) replaced their silicone hose and the metal hose a few times trying to help. It never did.

have you ever heard of this?

Issue:
Some 2003-2006 F-Super Duty, 2003-2005 Excursion and 2004-2006 E-Series vehicles, all equipped with 6.0L engine, may exhibit coolant venting from the degas bottle cap. The condition typically occurs when operating the vehicle under a load such as trailer towing, uphill driving, or both.

I received that plus a whole article from Banks. Just fyi, I'm not a motor head, I can do basic things, I'd rather pay someone to do the more involved things.

The Big Hoss bundle LargeMarge mentioned includes the Techni-Cooler which has the larger openings in/out of the "charge cooler", I almost bought one for mine. I haven't seen the nee to redirect the CCV either, just passing on options.

I've maxed out my 35psi gauge a few times, running the stock OEM Blue boots coming up on 100k miles and the CCV is still in the stock location. I believe Ford did update to a newer boot style after 04ish. Either way, at that point it's time to replace them like you said.

When you say you replaced the tube, I'm assuming you mean the boots? They should NOT be blowing off like this. You are no where near boot blowing power. If the problem persists, maybe try a good set of boots, like the one's dieselsite.com sells.

As far as the "issue" you've posted about... yeah, a lot of people have heard about this. It's completely unrelated to your boot blowing though. Are you pushing coolant out the degas cap? That's typically a blown EGR cooler or blown headgaskets.

Ahh, good catch Karl. Overlooked the part where he said he had the intercooler too. If anything the larger intercooler and piping will LOWER boost numbers though (not a bad thing). Boost is just a measurement of restriction anyways, typically when flow is opened up or a larger volume is created, overall boost will drop a bit.

well thats a bummer "This boot will not fit van applications or Banks Intercooler systems" Thats from Dieselsite.com

But thats what everyone says, "that it shouldent be blowing off" But its been doing it for years, new boots and all. Both ford, and banks ones. Thats why I had to come in here. You are my only hope. The hose from dieselsite, kinda looks like a radiator hose. Is that material oil resistant, and if so can I make a custom one? Do you think it would hold better?
Another worry I have is that the truck IS overboosting some how and it keeps blowing the weak spot instead of blowing something in the engine. People were taking about the veins getting stuck somehow. I live in california so it sounds like I cant get rid of the egr. Its just very frustrating.

You can take the factory EGR cooler off and weld freeze plugs in both ends of it and reinstall. It costs almost nothing to do and the appearance of the EGR cooler is still there, without the actual functionality! :tu:

As for the boots, no they're not radiator hose, that would most likely blow to shreds. The boots from dieselsite are really good boots. Even if your veins were sticking and you were overboosting, how high do you think you're going? Probably not enough to blow boots off... Your 06 has a factory boost gauge no? What is it hitting? There is something else going on here if it keeps pulling off. The only thing I can think of right now (sort of a long shot) is that the new banks intercooler perhaps isn't allowing the factory intercooler tube that attahces to the turbo to sit in the correct position and is throwing the alignment of that boot off a little, making it much easier to slip off of the turbo? I mean there are ways to fix a blowing boot, just depends how creative you want to get and how much $ you want to spend. What's the reason for the Banks intercooler anyways? They're nice units from what I hear, but your power levels don't necessitate it.

Let me see if I can dig up some pictures of some of the boot clamp setups I'm thinking of.

Try "Hairspray."

Currently it's all stock, still blows off. It hapends when it a constant boost on the gauge. About 25-30 psi. But like I said before I only tow a couple times a year when it happens.

Not sure if it's related but I get alot of fumes in the cab if I'm not running recirculated air. Just coming to a stop with the windows down I get a rush of fumes. Very stinky! I drive a 550 for work and it dosent smell at all.

Smell like raw fuel or burnt diesel...?

I peg my 35psi gauge on my race tunes, my boots have never blown off. If it keeps repeating I'd say new boots are in order.

More like stinky exhaust, to the point of coughing.

Nobody has mentioned anything about the clamps backing off, so, I will.

I took my 06 to the dealer for a glow plug controller failure, which they replaced under warranty. On the way home from the dealer I heard a loud POW! and when I got home I found that the turbo boost tube popped off.

I tried tightening the clamps and this seemed to work for a few days, but then POW! it happened again. I eventually figured out that the aviation nuts on the clamps were backing off. They have plastic inserts to prevent them from coming loose, but after tightening and re-tightening a few times the don't hold like they're supposed to.
So here is my solution. Put an extra nut on each of the clamps and tighten them down against the aviation nuts. We used to call these jamb nuts, but, you get the idea.
I haven't had a single problem with mine since I did this. And I assure you mine are just as oily as yours are.

Weird symptoms call for weird suggestions. What if the turbo was loose, or the pedestal cracked/broken? It could still make the boost, but it could also flop around. This flopping around could not only pull the boost tube off (both OEM and Banks), but could have cracked the exhaust leading to the exhaust leak. Probably unlikely, but you never know.

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My Banks Techni-Cooler (part of the Big Hoss Bundle) uses a spring under the nut on their hose clamps. The springs work pretty good because on my elbow I have one with nylon insert and one without.

"Weird symptoms call for weird suggestions. What if the turbo was loose, or the pedestal cracked/broken? It could still make the boost, but it could also flop around. This flopping around could not only pull the boost tube off (both OEM and Banks), but could have cracked the exhaust leading to the exhaust leak. Probably unlikely, but you never know."

Would I be able to move the turbo by hand then?

No, I know guys running with NO turbo mount bolts holding the turbo to the pedistal, literally the only thing holding the turbo in place is the up-pipe clamps and the down pipe clamp. As well as the drain tube somewhat orienting it. Seriously. I wouldn't recommend it, but I've seen it done.

Can you get some pics under the hood of your truck? Take some close ups of the connection etc...

Karls on to something though, what condition is that clamp in? I know some of the updated clamps had springs on them too.

bustedknuckles... why not just replace the one lock nut? Double-nutting works I suppose. I know the nut/bolt section of my clamp on my downpipe is fubar, it's all stripped and goobered up from removing it so many times. I bought a new one directly from Ford, waiting to put it on when the cab comes off.

Something isn't making sense here, there is absolutely no reason your boots should be blowing off.

As for the exhaust smell, probably a cracked up-pipe... which isn't uncommon at all really. However, the boot constantly blowing off is not common, especially on a stockish truck. What I find odd is that it's the same connection blowing over and over...

Ok I can try to post a pic, but I have been thru half a dozen clamps and a dozen boots both factory and banks. And 3 different down tubes. Just talked to a perfomance shop near me and they said something about the stock turbo wheel housing vibrating. Causing it to blow. Said banks makes an after market housing to fix that. I'm probably going to just drop it off with them and say "fix it". And see what happens. If I'm going to be spending a few grand anything in particular I need to do? I was going to put the banks intercollegiate back on but try and get the sct tunner. See if they will nix the egr somehow. Did I miss anything?

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Have you ever seen this? CAC Tube Brace - TCN Enterprises

Sounds like a huge waste of money to me, but it's your money to waste. I've gone back and forth with two different factory CAC tubes on mine, one was the original for the dual alternators (squashed down in the middle) and the single alt one (since it fits with dual alts anyways) same boot, never even cleaned anything, pushing 35+ psi through it and never once had it pop off. There is something else going on with your truck.

The shop you talked to sounds like they don't have a clue either. Stock turbo wheel housing? The turbo isn't vibrating any more than the rest of the engine, since it's hard mounted to the damn block. I wouldn't spend a dime on anything Banks makes to begin with, and I've never heard of them making anything for a stock 6.0 turbo. They're probably confusing that with a wicked wheel upgrade for a stock 7.3 turbo.

How mechanically inclined are you? There are some relatively simple ways to fix this. You might need to do some fabbing....

That $50 brace kit looks cheesy, but I guess it might solve your issues. I'd buy that long before adding a banks wheel housing at the cost of thousands.

There is something else going on here. There is no rhyme or reason for a stock turbo'd truck to be pushing new boots/clamps off like this....

Please try and get us some pictures of the engine bay. Specifically that joint, and the other intercooler connections.

I'd just really hate to see you dump all that money on NOTHING. :td:

http://m1153.photobucket.com/albums/LargeMargw/Snapbucket/?src=www?pbauth=1_uLEBonVPfaLdh1h3YMYz2Q6w7zMYBJ1RT160YjHyE%2F1OBYFDlNs1mWXb%2BFNc5mz1mR6dyk2qkf6%2B8uj5hkApxNbHbu0TwDpllj8oUsGwy%2FyoLiFgGmg1ma%2FJQVFl8JNVZEOHxTHJ%2BZ42bXPFl%2F8e6VTdOKG3MquOT8zMu0Avet8%3D

See if that works

I also spoke to another person at oc performance diesel, he sounded better then the first guy. I think the first guy was just an operator. Diagnosis $200, install banks crap $400, install sct tunner $180. Not sure of any other costs yet

$180 to install SCT? It plugs into the OBD port and you hit a few buttons and it's done... that's it. WTF kind of shop is that?

Banks list absolutely nothing turbo related for a 6.0 on their website... NOTHING.

Pics work if you click on the box.

Attachment 39085

Dude, that doesn't even look like it's on all the way... This is why I wanted a picture. I just went out and took a picture of mine for reference... this may be part of your problem here bud.
Attachment 39086

Thats how I installed it this last time, all the way snuged up, but then went to get on the freeway and BOOM it poped off, so I tried to line up the ridge inside the boot and the dimple on the tube, it stayed on then, and yes I did clean them both the first time right before I went on the freeway, no towing.

as far as I can figure what the first kid was talking about was for a 7.3 turbo housing. I think he was confused.

My options are very limited for performance shops around here.

Because OEM and Banks use the same type spring loaded bolt, I have to wonder if it's not a fastener issue. What if there were a crack in the turbine section (or VGT malfuntion) allowing the turbo to make a ridiculous amount of boost? I am guessing at this point, BTW.

Has there been any OBD scan done? What codes are popping? I didn't see that in the thread.

That CAC brace does look kind of hokey. I wouldn't call that the hot side of the turbo, the hot side is the exhaust/turbine section.

At any rate, because 2 different inter-coolers are doing the same thing, it's time to quit looking there, quit looking at band clamps that have been chnaged over and over, and look to something else. Codes, turbo, turbo mounting, something.:s:

You said you tried a different CAC tube too right?

is the CAC tube the metal one going to the intercooler? if so, its blown off with 2 diffrent banks ones and the stock one. Ford has looked at it several times, I'm sure they would have seen a code. When I had the pda on I think the only code I ever saw was low/no turbo pressure(after the hose blew off). If it did make an insane amount of boost, it was fast enough for it not to be recorded by the tuner. I think the highest I saw when the entire banks system was on there was 34 psi, that was when I wasent towing, but racing it. I have a feeling that this is going no where, its extremly hard to diagnose a problem without getting your hands on the truck. If I ever do find out what the problem is I'll let you know. Its only been 5 years. I'll have to take a look at the sct tuner instalation, but the price might be with custom tunning too, not sure. Did you have a chance to look at their web site? Orange County Performance - Corvettes Mustangs and Hot Rods

I feel your pain, I have had issues that forum diagnosis really hindered, but please keep in touch, I would really like to know the answer to this Scooby Doo mystery. There are a couple of other Bombers that would like to know also.

:c:

If it does it again, tighten down the nut until the spring just bottoms out, then tighten it down a little more. Then put the jamb nut on it and tighten the 2 nuts against each other using 2 wrenches. If you just try to tighten the top nut, both of them will turn and they won't hold; they will both back off together due to vibration.

Never heard of them so I wouldn't even use their custom tuning. The name right there says corvettes, mustangs and hot rods... doesn't say DIESEL TUNING. Stick with the big names for tunes. You're talking about how your truck runs and drives here, don't just use a no-name shop. Seriously the SCT "install" is hardly what I would even consider an "install".... you plug the thing in, it turns on, you go through the menus and load the tune, it's quite simple. I can talk you through it over the phone man.

34psi is not enough to blow hoses. If you were running compounds and pushing 60psi maybe...

I would thing towing would actually cause a higher boost situation than racing... racing an empty truck doesn't really put a large load on it.

Unfortunately I don't think there is much else we can do from here, you're right. My only other suggestion is finding someone with another 6.0 and swapping the CAC tube and hose and see if it changes. You said you've swapped the stock CAC tube off for the banks, but have you tried another Ford CAC tube? If you were closer I'd swap with you today just to see what the heck is up. I do have a spare CAC tube I'd be willing to ship to you to try out.

Could you maybe take the CAC tube off and get a pair of vernier calipers and measure the OD of the tube where the boot connects? Maybe it's egg shaped, or too small or something. We could compare it to one of ours. I know we're stretching here, but we're willing to help any way we can from behind a monitor.

You said it still does this even when returned to stock right? As in stock tuning...?


Karl, if there was a crack in the turbo housing I would think it would make NO boost or very little. A hole/crack in a pressurized system is just a way for pressure to escape and air is going to take the path of least resistance. Even if the vanes were stuck, he would know it. It'd either be really doggy down low and light hard up top, or it would be quick to spool and fall on it's face and have a ton of backpressure. The vanes can only move so far, so figure when we're singing at full boost that's the max travel for the vanes and we're not blowing boots, you know what I mean?

I hate to rule out the clamp/boots etc, but if he's changed them so many times it's hard to argue that it's not those... maybe we do need to think outside the box on this one.

This might help, but he really shouldn't be needing to double nut this thing to keep it on... there is something else going on here we're overlooking...


LargeMarge, have you tried the hair spray on the boots? Makes them STICK real good. These are Ford boots you're using right?

I'm sorry it was Diesel Performance Parts | OC DIESEL

If that crack were in the compressor section, yes, little to no boost. I KNOW an exhaust leak before the turbo kills the boost, but what about an exhaust leak IN the turbo?

What if that crack were in the turbine (hot) section, which is isolated from the compressor (cold) section. Couldn't a leak in the turbine housing "ease" the pressure on the turbine, allowing it to spin faster, thus making more boost, or at least spiking the boost so rapidly it blows the boot off? It would certainly explain the hideous exhaust leak after 3 down tubes were installed.

If there is soot on the cast iron part of the housing, that would indicate a leak. It doesn't cost anything to look...

I'm all for abstract solutions for this, none of the usual fixes seem to apply.

I see what you're saying now, but no it would not make more boost, you'd lose a lot of heat which is what essentially drives the turbo. You'd have major failure is my guess, but I seriously doubt it would create more boost. If it would, guys would be figuring out a way to make it work...

You're right, I'm not sure where else to look, this is such a simple thing that it's blowing my mind.

One person I spoke to suggested maybe I have a clog in the inter cooler or the computer is registering a lower boost then whats really there so it allows it to boost higher.

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Clogged catalytic converter?

I followed this thought process when my boots were popping off.
I reasoned that maybe I forgot a rag in the intercooler tube input or output.
Have you ever used the black aftermarket boots that disintegrated for more than a few people? This would clog the intercooler input side.
This might explain higher boost causing the tube to pop off.
I never considered the possibility that it was something as simple as the nuts backing off, but that was exactly what it was for me. My personal belief is that the spring tension in the clamps is too low to hold to tubes on and that's why I suggested to tighten it a little after bottoming out the springs. I've had mine 'double nutted' without bottoming out the springs and they still popped off.

well I just threw the banks inter cooler and ram air back on, I figured I'd save myself $400. The savings will go toward better upgrades.

If there was a clog in the intercooler back pressure would be through the roof and you'd be having more issues than tubes popping off me thinks.

So does the stuff not pop off with the banks stuff on?