berniebern
 

I ordered a 4inch turbo back from banks.also need to know if I also need egr delete or what other mods.truck runs great other than a few rough running issues at times.also on several occasions it would not start.all electronics worked.but when u turn the key it did absolutely nothing.after it sat for a day it fired right up?:rocking:

Understood&thnx,I have 220,000 miles and just did oil change,fuel filters and new stock air filter.I use rotella 5w40 with hss.I drive her daily for wrk and tow and haul light trailer with quads.nothing big by no means.nothing spilt or huge burn outs.cnt afford tires!it only seems to run rough when its hit in the summer?like now in the cooler months no issues at all.so I would like to know what else other than the turbo back monster exhaust what else should be done.egr delete,dpf delete?also the dead ignition problem.done it twice while driving,and two more times after it sat for a hour or so.all electronics work but turn the key and it does absolutely nothing.mechanic said possible anti theft issue but dnt know why.

What filters are you using?

I hear you on the tires, I'm on something like my 5th set in 90k miles... SCT tuners are too much fun.

Typically a hot issue is a high pressure oil leak, but I can't imagine the outside temp affecting it that much. Does it have trouble re-starting when it's warm?

The exhaust is a good start. There is no DPF on these trucks, only a muffler and cat. The cat is nothing like a gas-job cat either, it's relatively open, more like a second muffler. Most of us run straight pipe. I believe your banks will have a muffler. You can use it or lose it, up to you. Nothing quite sounds like a straight piped 6.0...

Full EGR delete is a great idea, if you live in a state where it's ok (basically anywhere minus Cali)

As for what else you should do, that's up to you. We can point you a certain way, but we need to know your plans for the truck. Are you looking for reliability? More power? Run at the track? Be a tow pig? Fun street truck? Budget for this? Kind of a few different ways we can go here.

I would suggest in the short term, a coolant filter (such as one from either Sinister, or dieselsite.com), probably some gauges if you plan on adding a tuner at all, and if not, I would still get fuel pressure gauge, engine coolant temp, and engine oil temp. After I get some more answers on where you'd like to head, I can explain why I think you need these gauges regardless.

Are you the original owner? What's the service history been like on this? Any major repairs at any point? Ever had an Oasis run?

As for you no start condition... that's a tough one, and electronics stuff like that always puzzles me as well. Could very well be a security thing, I've heard of that before. What package do you have? I know the harley trucks of those years had chipped keys.

Certainly need reliability,but do want to get tuner and gauges but mo.rt is tight so I'm doing what I csn when I can.I've been using wix filters and the air filter I thnk its a stock motorcraft.I've had the coolant flushed,serviced the entire drive train,new universals in rear shaft,wheel bearings and now the exhaust.I'm the 3rd.owner and had her for two years now.I drive it 7days a week for week work and family outings since her Toyota 4runner is too small!I pull a trailer with 3 quads and do plan on getting a toy hauler.not huge but 30ft.or so.so what ever u thnk would be good and help I greatly appreciate as I'm learning.I know its a good motor with a ton if power just need pointed in the right direction.as far as running bad and starting,it does start easily when its hot but will still act bad if it hasnt sat long enough to cool down.but that has been around two months since it done that.it would smoke real bad and didn't have any power at all.but I've been running the hot shot secret for two oil changes now and seems to be doing great.but I haven't been on long trips or towed anything heavy since then either.

Ok I think I can see where you're heading.

Start with your exhaust you have, keep the stock air filter, get a coolant filter next, they're about $120, and will prevent any crud from making it to the oil cooler. Story time...

The factory oil cooler is there to regulate the temps between the oil and the coolant. Ideally, it keeps the coolant and oil within 15 degrees of each other (actually less is better). Now, all is well and good right? Not so much. The block of the 6.0 motor is made (was made, can't get em anymore) in what they call a sand casting process. This process ends up leaving little sand particles throughout the motor. As the engine is heat cycled and used, sand particles break away from the block and make their way through the coolant system. Most of these particles are too small to even get caught in the oil cooler, but some can and do. Add to this, our coolant... the silicates in this can turn into a sludge and clog the oil cooler as well. The combination of this, clogs the oil cooler and you'll start seeing temps with a higher delta than 15 degrees. This overheating of the oil cooler is bad for a few reasons. Itself can rupture, causing oil and coolant to mix. It can also lead to superheating of the egr cooler, and cause that to rupture, it can also take out headgaskets due to excessive heat. So you can see why keeping it clean is a good idea. The coolant filter catches a lot of this crap. Now the only way to really see what is going on... get the coolant temp gauge and the engine oil temp gauge ECT and EOT gauges as we call them. You can monitor the temp difference in hopes of catching early signs of the cooler clogging.

So this is our justification for the coolant filter and those two gauges.

Fuel pressure gauge is #1 mucho important gauge. Our injectors are very finicky. They have something like 75 moving parts inside each injector. They're built with very tight tolerances, which are also the downfall. They need good clean oil to run well. I wouldn't really go over 5k miles at all with the oil changes, regardless of oil or additives. Use OEM Ford, or Fram oil filters. Normally I'd NEVER recommend a Fram filter, but in this case, the cartridge style filter they sell is the exact same as the Ford unit. EXACTLY. Pull them both out of the box, same P/N's and everything. International is also a good source for filters. The oil filter is a very important part to the health of this motor. There are many aftermarket units that even have their own cap, and they have all been known to cause issues. Issues as minor as rough starting and poor driving, all the way up to complete oil starvation and major engine damage. Stick with the Ford cap and the ford filters. The oil also serves double purpose on ours, as they fire the injector, thus the importance of frequent oil changes. I'd also recommend Rev-X as an additive. For fuel filters, again, get rid of the wix and use Motorcraft or International ONLY. Very important on these. This all ties in with the injector life. Our injectors NEED 55psi. If you start dropping below 45psi, you're doing damage, or so says Ford. A fuel pressure gauge is like a heart monitor for a 6.0. We can make recommendations for a fuel system, once you have a base line and know where your pressure lies now. Typical mods here are the "blue spring" mod, which you can google or just search here and read about. It's a stiffer spring in the fuel bowl for the return of fuel to the tank. Basically a certain pressure is reached, the spring collapses and fuel goes back to the tank. This just bumps pressure up. Many of us are running these, and they're relatively inexpensive. Another common upgrade is the 6.4 banjo bolts. These bolts are what attach the fuel lines to the front of the heads from the filter bowl. They are quite restrictive. The 6.4 is just a more open design. You can get the bolts and new copper crush washers for something like $25. You wont notice a difference, but it is just replacing the most restrictive point in the system It should help sustain higher fuel pressure.

After you have gauges, time to look into a tuner. For your needs, some mild tunes and even a good towing tune would be a good idea. Get an SCT X-cal3 or SF3 (handheld programmers) or a livewire (programmer/pod all in one. It will double as gauges, and you can just eliminate the gauges in the previous paragraph). Get it from a reputable tuner, like Eric @ Innovative Diesel, Doug @ GoGo, Matt @ Gearhead, or some of the likes. When you buy from them, they include free custom tunes. Custom tunes are where it's at for these motors. They tune the engine AND the transmission. The life of the transmission relies vastly on tuning. With great tuning, they can tow almost anything and live behind a hot motor running 1/4 mile passes with relatively nothing else.

Your starting/rough idle issues could be attributed to a few things, but I'm gonna recommend you get your batteries load tested first, if they check out ok, test the FICM. I have a write up posted on top of the page how to do it, you can also PM me, I'll get you my number and walk you through it.

Any more questions, just ask. I'm sure you'll have some! :c:

Wow now that's information!and your right I will.thnx again buddy,you've been a big help.is there a certain egr delete I should get with the banks exhaust or does it matter:tu:

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Almost forgot,my truck has the fx4 package.so I dnt know if that's got something with the key or not.its weird though,only happened 4xs in 2years?its like the ignition just doesnt engage to go to start the motor.

Any EGR delete you want. You can get some basic full deletes on ebay now for the $150 price range. A popular name brand one now is Sinister, I think they're about $299. I know FCDP (First Coast diesel peroformance) have some real nice units, it is an entire intake manifold hot-tanked and powdercoated any color you want. Doug @ GoGo probably has the single nicest one on the market, he actually does some machine work to the intake manifold. The coolant never goes through the manifold again. $$$ though.

FWIW, the exhaust you got is a nice unit, but Banks is generally frowned upon on the diesel forums. The exhaust systems are nice (but overpriced) other than that, their intercoolers are nice and competitively priced, but that's it... everything else they sell under-performs for 2x the money. :c:

Buddy I hate to keep bothering you.but got my exhaust tonight.and it looks like I have to use the converter?is there a way to not to put that back on.do I need to get a straight pipe and just replace?:rocking:

No worries, you're not bothering anyone. That's what this forum is for, to ask questions and learn!

You can find your answers here...

DFUSER.com - Diesel Performance Products Diesel Exhaust Diesel High Performance Part Diesel Intake Diesel Power Chips

Is it possible to even just return the banks unit without taking a hit? They are nice units and all, but you can get aluminized 4" turbo backs for like $265 these days...

Wow that's a lot cheaper.ok great and thnx again:rocking:

Don't get me wrong, I know Banks makes some nice exhausts, and it's probably all stainless as well. I don't want to discourage you from using it if you've already paid and got it too. You can always go to the local muffler shop and have them weld in a piece of straight pipe there too.

Yeah its paid for and got it yesterday.but that's what I was thinking.I'm a welder and have my own shop so that's what I will do.but I'm glad I joined ur site.do u guys have clubs or anything I could also join.these trucks really have my interests and I wanna learn all I can.:rocking:

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Also where can I learn more about vegiestroke:rocking:

I'm not really too sure if there are any sanctioned events put on by dieselbombers. I think the forums are a great way to find out about local get togethers and that sort of thing. Are you on any other forums? I can point you to a few that are more powerstroke oriented as well. I see you're in OH, I know the name Ohio Coal Rollers is pretty popular on some other sites, so you're probably not alone out there.

For vegistroke info you can always ask here, we do have an alternative fuel section found here: https://www.dieselbombers.com/altern...itives-fluids/

They also have their own forum, WVO Diesel Conversion | SVO Grease Conversion | Ford Vegistroke Powerstroke | Biodiesel Conversion and of course I can answer pretty much anything about it as well.

Ok great thnx again buddy.I will definitely be looking into that club and checking out the vegiestroke:rocking:

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Need help buddy,cannot get down pipe off turbo?i removed heat shield on valve cover and engine hoist ring.its just not passing the valve cover.dnt know why but I'm getting my a..kicked.:s:

Ok, do you have the heat wrap on your downpipe? It was mostly an 03 thing, not sure if any 04's have it. If you have that heat shield, you need to cut it all off to get it off. This is literally a wrap around the downpipe, I'd expect that you DO NOT have this, but I have to ask.

Next you need to cut the downpipe under the truck, in front of the frame cross member somewhere. The farther up you cut it, the easier it is. That downpipe should just fall out of there with some careful maneuvering. I think if you twist it one way or the other, it just drops out. You can NOT take it out in one piece without cutting it under the truck though.

Yep it sure does have the wrap.ok buddy I will try that,thnx again!:rocking:

I feel for you brother. I only did one where I had to remove the wrap. Added about 45 min to the process and by the time you're done your hands will be itchier than heck, it's all fiberglass under that metal wrap. You'll see there are like 3 or 4 bands holding the metal wrap on there. Get some tin snips, snip those bands, then start at the bottom of the wrap and cut up Just keep cutting up and up as far as you can. I can remember this being a huge PITA. Just take your time, wear a long sleeve shirt and some gloves, that stuff was nasty. I did it with a t-shirt on and no gloves and went all day with really itchy arms.:c:

I was afraid u were gonna mention insulation.especially that's almost 8 years old and 220,000 miles of heat and god knows what else.lol:rocking:

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Will I hurt anything driving it for a short time with only that pipe off the turbo?its all off from before converter on out.:argh:

Not one bit. Give her hell.

Dam shame I didn't cut before,this thing sounds WICKED!!:rocking:

Is it ok to buy and use a used sct tuner?also a good friend of mine wants me to ask u about his horrible fuel mileage.he has an 05 f350 srw crew cab fx4.had the head gasget and studs done,6.0 solution kit,mbrp exhaust not tuned yet,small lift with 35" allterrains,3.73 gears and everything else is stock.he said he avg.14 mpg.I'm getting like 18 on avg.with basically the same truck.he is getting tuner and oh yeah does have egr delete also.so any help or ideas would be cool.I figured you'd be the one that would most likely know.thnx again.I will let u know how my mods are going as i complete.can't wait,I'm all excited about my truck again:rocking:

You can certainly buy a used SCT, but it needs to have "unlocks" left, and the vehicle it's coming off needs to be returned to stock. These programmers Vin-Lock to each truck, so it's not returned to stock, it's useless. Also each SCT only has 5 vin-locks from new. So every new truck it goes on, it loses an unlock. So lets say I buy one brand new, put it on my truck, use it for a year and sell it to you. I need to put my truck back to stock, then send it to you. As soon as you load it on your truck, you use another one of the locks, so there would be 3 left after you got it on yours. No big deal, as long as there are unlocks left! It will say right on the programmer how many are left, just plug it into the OBD port and go through the menus and find it. Also, don't plan on using any of the tunes that come with it, get your own for your strategy. So factor that in cost wise, since 3 good tunes are going to run about $150. If you can get an X-cal2 or X-cal3 for like $150-$200, it's probably worth it right?

Your buddies mileage doesn't sound too terrible for such a big truck. I have an extended cab short bed and I get about 15. At least I did the last I checked. I think the 35's will actually help mileage if you're running all highway, I know my cruising RPM has dropped with taller tires and I definitely get better mileage now, but I haven't actually checked it. Your 18mpg is actually very good for a 6.0

I have to ask... how are you two checking mileage? I hope you're not going off of the lie-o-meter on the dash. Most people know to fill the tank, run it down, fill again and calculate gallons used vs. miles travelled. These trucks are a different breed though. Have you ever noticed that you can keep adding fuel after the pump clicks off? You need to keep adding fuel until you actually have fuel sitting up in the fuel neck. Otherwise you have no clue how much is really in the tank. It's a PITA to do, as it usually takes another 10-15 minutes to get the fuel up that far in the tank, thus why I don't do it anymore. Some guys have gone as far as dropping their tank and cutting the fill line flush with the top of the tank to avoid this, it's called the "harpoon mod".

The difference in mileage is usually more related to the tune/strategy loaded on the truck than anything. Tunes may help, they may not. Let me just tell you what I was told when I first started modding my truck, and it's ringing true... "Mod for power, not mileage. If you happen to get some more MPG's as a side effect, be happy."

The hotter tunes get the best mileage, IF you can keep your foot out of it.

:c:

I've been dividing miles per gallons used when I fill back up.u r the man,thnx again:rocking: