So you got this truck and no pics up yet? C'mon! :pca1:

no i dont have it at home yet, im waiting for the d*** credit union to get all the sig for the loan, last time it took about a week to get all the sig,

6.0 cons-
1.-High pressure oil leaks, make sure to ask the seller whether or not hes had the new stc bracket installed on the pump. The original ones are like a quick discconect fitting from a 7.3 oil line and they are notorious for leaking oil and having starting issues when theyre hot. The new ones thread into the pump. The dummy plugs and stand pipe o rings wear out from heat and vibration and cause no starts. Injectors shit the bed up here almost every 2 years. Injector cups cracking or failing causing the injector crush washers or oring gaskets to be wiped out, IPR screens getting wiped out or clogged with shit so change the oil religiously! 3k miles not a mile over it. especially if your going to run it hard.
2.-Front covers cavitate causing overheating due to particles clogging oil cooler and building up in the block. I dont know how many ive replaced over the years.
3.-VGT vanes stick and need to be cleaned ive seen early build 03 and 04s (icp sensor mounted in hpop cover) turbo seals fail causing run aways or filling the exhaust with oil.
4.-FICMs getting fryed. I am convinced that any chip especially the banks 6 gun, that plugs into the ficm and into the pcm, are causing a voltage fluctuation to cause the ficm to short out or fry. (Ford warranty now wants us to tear into the ficm and to inspect the circuit board and replace the circuit board for visual burns or lose diodes but regaurdless i replace the entire unit) I have 3 friends with the banks 6 guns 1 has ran out of warranty and ESP and just recently switched his 6 gun to a DP tuner. But all 3 have gone through at least 10 ficms each (trucks being 06s 07s)
5.-HPOPs failing, ive replaced a few (mostly from early build 03s-04s) due to only building 1-300psi and no hpo leaks.
6.-Oil coolers as mentioned previously.
7.-intakes gumming up
8.-Oil pans rot out
9.-Water pump failures (mainly due to customers switching gold coolant to green and causing a jelly to be made and wipe the impellar fins off the pump and clogging up the block and radiator as well)
10.-CAC tube hoses (blue rubber connectors) leak oil and crack, stock plastic intercoolers crack (especially if the truck is chipped and makes more than 25psi boost)
11.-Exhaust leaks, Up pipe bellows crack cause underboost P2263s, Down pipe cracks where it meets the turbo (makes for the interior to reek like exhaust) EBP sensor + tubes get clogged with carbon and make for some wierd issues to be had, have seen a few manifolds crack recently (best way to diag an exhaust leak is to put a smoke tester into the ebp tube)
12.-General maintenance, Change the oil every 3k miles i dont care what ford or navistar says these things fire off oil pressure and clean oil=good running truck. 15w40 in the summer 10w30 in the summer, Use stock filters and DONT change the caps or filters for aftermarket napa etc. (have seen intermittent missfires with no check engine lights or pending dtcs and change the oil and filter and cap to ford oem and the miss go away) Use Gold motorcraft only coolant, theres silicones in it and if it mixxes with green coolant it makes a mess! Clean air filters obviously make for better mileage also allow for optimal performance. I dont care for the K&N oil bath filters.

Pros-
1.-They sound amazing stacked or straight piped. Thats the only primary reason id own one.
2.-Theyre easy to diagnose and easy to fix if your mechanically inclined.
3.-Takes only 10 minutes to remove the turbo (i absolutley hate 7.3s and turn them down every chance i can i make better time on a 6.0 and a 6.4 than a 7.3 further more its a good thing the 7.3 was before my time otherwise i wouldnt touch a diesel) just undo the clamps 3 hold down bolts and the degas bottle hose going to the intake.
4.-Valve covers come off easily with a 10 and 12mm semi deep and shallow swivel socket (just keep your hand under the heater box to catch the bottom 3 valve cover bolts)
5.-headgaskets are easy to do i pull the cab screw bending over and screw removing the heater corebox. I can get the cab off by the time the a/c machine is done evacuating the system whether theyre reg cab or ext or crew cab.