03 f250... nada but problems!
 

How's it going, readers? This is my first thread on this site and it's the BIGGEST reason why I joined... and it's all about the problems my truck is giving me. First off, details about my truck. She's an '03 F250 6.0L SD Powerstroke Lariat edition crew cab... She's lowered a little bit, since I have no need for huge lifts in San Diego, and riding on 22 inch Kumho lo-pro's... Okay, now the picture is painted, let's get to the dirty...

Rough time cold starting
Absolutely will not hot start... takes 45 min's to an hour to start again, and even that's not guaranteed.
Rough idle, doesn't matter if it's warm or cold
Has to wait about 10 min's to be able to drive, and even then she's slow.
Takes forever to pick up speed from a dead stop.
At about 50-55 mph, engine does something real weird, as if it's just shaking real hard and rattling, but once you get to 60+, there's no problem.
Runs better at 60+ than it does at 30.
Has a real hollow sound coming from engine. Sounds like a hollow drum beat.
Doesn't like reverse (probably a tranny problem).
Doesn't like climbing hills of any size.
Won't tow anything remotely heavy, like a trailer pulling a 95 Firebird.

So, there's the dirty... some notes, she idles at about 550 rpm. Oil temp and levels are normal. No leaks anywhere. Runs thru the go-go juice like it's cool, averaging about 7.7 mpg. Has to get to about 3k rpm before it'll shift, and it's a hard shift, too... She also has 237k miles on it... and the engine was rebuilt about 100k ago...

So, my new friends of DieselBombers... what do you have for me?! Any ideas of what is/could be wrong with it? I'm open to everything, b/c I need it fixed! CHEERS :c:

Garrett

P.S. I'm planning on adding videos of everything on YOUTUBE next weekend, so you can see and hear for yourselves how it is.

very likely the EGR valve is stuck wide open, won't let it build boost and totally screws with the mass air, has it ever been out and cleaned or replaced? it sits right next to the intake elbow, has the little black cap with a wire connector on it, only has 2 8mm bolts holding it down.

Not that I know of... I haven't done it... I will take a look at that, though! Thanks! :c:

What mods are on the truck?

First things that come to my mind are the STC fitting under the HPOP, it cracks, leaks oil when it warms up and causes the no start issue when warm. It's very common and there is even a thread only a couple posts down here that has the same info.

Second, the shaking at speed and the not being able to drive it for 10-15 min until it's warm is probably just injectors sticking. (possibly EGR issue too). I'd order up a bottle of Rev-X and try that, see if it cures some of those symptoms. I'll bet it does.

Third, yes EGR is probably dirty as all heck. I'd just normally tell guys to order a full EGR delete setup, but you're in Cali, so I'd pull that EGR valve, clean it really well, weld it shut, put it back, and see if you get a CEL. If you do (you shouldn't, 03/04 usually don't) then order a custom tuned SCT (search for this topic, you'll find way more info than you can handle) and it will turn the light off. Might want to look into bulletproof EGR coolers. I also believe GOS Performance offers something similar.

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Probably wouldn't hurt to hook the truck up to a scanner and see if there are any codes.

Wow where do we start I would defentlety clean the egr I would also check your FICM and the rev-x oil tretment is amazing stuff for cold and hard starting trucks I would try some if I was you but sounds like you need to address some other issues first.

Hey every one, thanks for the great info... I'm gonna have to spend all weekend tinkering with it and try to figure it out. The EGR valve was mentioned a few times as a potential problem, so I'll definitely pull that and see what's up... Where can I get some of this Rev-X?

To Mdub707, there are no mods made to the engine. It was rebuilt 100k miles ago, but returned to stock specs. If the STC fitting under the HPOP cracks, wouldn't it leave a puddle of oil under my truck? Just asking b/c there's no signs of leakage (aka puddle of oil on ground)

I think it is safe to start with the EGR and work my way from there. Thanks again! I'll keep ya'll updated. :c:

Yep ! I'm betting on the EGR Valve . When you pry it up gently, wire brush it real good even the stem of the valve. It wouldn't hurt to put some graphite on the stem also.
The main symptom you get when it is stuck besides bucking, spiting puking and gaging is when you step on the pedal it has no power at all. Runs real bad. Some times you can reuse the gasket.

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don't forget to drain the coolant down!:s:

No, there would be no puddle because it is internal to the engine, that cover that has to be removed to access it seals it, the high pressure oil pump is driven with gears off of the cam gear on the back of the engine and it sits under a cover right under the turbo pedestal and if I remember right the intake has to be removed also, wich isn't a bad Idea once you see the gunk that is in the intake from the egr, a shop vac will be helpfull once you start scraping that gunk out of there, its nasty

It's going to be a hairline crack and when the motor is cold and the oil is thick it wont leak at all, which is why it will start cold. As the motor warms up, oil thins out and starts bleeding out and losing pressure... thus why it wont start warm.

the fitting is almost like an aircompressor fitting, it swivels to make it easier for the install at the factory, that swivel wears out from the extremely high pressures it sees, you can pull it in and out with ease, the new one is solid, you put it on loose then after the pump is bolted down you tighten it up %100. my boy and I can do one of these with a egr cooler block off in about 8 hours, the extra set of hands realy comes in handy