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-   Ford Powerstroke 03-07 6.0L (https://www.dieselbombers.com/ford-powerstroke-03-07-6-0l/)
-   -   Banjo bolt do or dont (https://www.dieselbombers.com/ford-powerstroke-03-07-6-0l/64162-banjo-bolt-do-dont.html)

ranger518 12-05-2010 06:53 PM

Banjo bolt do or dont
 
Hi i have a 2006 PSD preaty much stock other thatn 4" exhaust and a intake and am getting ready to install a sct tune and was wondering if i sould install a new set of banjo bolts to help with fuel flow and what is the down fall of installing the bolts with no check valve in them like the factory banjo bolts have in them. Thaks

Mdub707 12-06-2010 08:01 AM

No downfall, they wont hurt a thing, they can only help. I'd do them. The factory ones aren't even a true check valve, they bleed off.

jimrd 12-06-2010 05:26 PM

i have the air dog kit two installed and SB air kit and was wondering the same thing
would the banjo bolts from the 7.4 L ford motor help...on the 6L

any advantages....

Also Ford part numbers for bolt and washers(4) would be great:hellox:

stone 12-06-2010 06:05 PM

Sinister Diesel here in az makes them n sells them for 99.99, I dont no if thats cheap or not. 2 guys i work with put them on their mostly stock 6.0's n said the only thing they noticed was their trucks idle a little smoother, but their trucks r mostly stock.Im sure those w/ an airdog II n you'd notice a difference

Mdub707 12-06-2010 07:25 PM

You wont notice anything, it's just the biggest restriction in the fuel system. It wont HURT at all though.

I was wondering how much sinister was going to charge. I believe theirs are stainless steel. You can get zinc coated jobs on ebay for $25 shipped, that's what I used and had no issues.

You can use the 6.4 bolts yes, they're similar to the stock 6.0 ones but with 4 holes. You can also just remove the check valve part from your stockers and drill the holes out.

For the money, I'd buy the ebay jobs myself... cheap, easy and work great. They're a 3 hold design but the holes are HUGE, and chamfered.

This is another one of those mods that you probably wont notice unless you're already having a problem, but you are eliminating the biggest restriction in fuel flow, so it certainly wont hurt a thing.:pca1:

ranger518 12-06-2010 07:53 PM

probly going to do it but still trying to find out why ford would put in a check valve int the banjo bolt if it is not needed. Really dont think they will spend any extra money on anything they did not need but like you said the ford check valve is really not a check valve so?? How hard is it to do i have heard that they are really hard to get out without stripping them out. Also anbody used the 6.4 banjo bolt heard they work good or maby it was the 7.4 anbody know

Mdub707 12-06-2010 08:22 PM

It's the 6.4 powerstroke that uses the bolts you want. What's a 7.4? They're not hard at all. The biggest thing was with the stock ones people were drilling them and they got brittle and would break easy, that's why I'd just buy the 6.4 ones or the ones on ebay. You can re-use the copper washers that are already on there. If you buy the 6.4 bolts they come with new copper washers with a rubber coating on them. They're not hard at all, unless you have dual alternators like me, then the job goes form about 20-30 min to 2hrs.

ranger518 12-06-2010 08:51 PM

Not sure what a 7.4 is eather ment 7.3 and i only have one alternator is there just the 2 on the front of the head one driver side and one pasanger side?

MUDSTROKIN' 12-07-2010 09:44 AM

i noticed a difference when i changed mine? At wot past 2750 rpms it pulls alot harder than it did before i changed em out.

Mdub707 12-07-2010 10:39 AM


Originally Posted by ranger518 (Post 662712)
Not sure what a 7.4 is eather ment 7.3 and i only have one alternator is there just the 2 on the front of the head one driver side and one pasanger side?

Nope 7.3's are different. You can use the 6.4 ones, but again, I still like the inexpensive big port jobs on ebay. Yep, one in each head in the front of the motor, simple as pie. If you open the hood, see where your fuel filter housing is, follow the hard lines coming out of that to the front of the heads, and you will see where the bolts are. Passenger side (on a truck with a single alternator) is cake, drivers side there is a coolant line in the way. You can drain some coolant and remove the line, or do like most people and just use something like a wrench to pry it away a little bit and then you can change the bolt out. If you have dual alternators it's a project, one alt has to come off, both belts, all the pulleys and tensioners... just a pain.


Originally Posted by MUDSTROKIN' (Post 662934)
i noticed a difference when i changed mine? At wot past 2750 rpms it pulls alot harder than it did before i changed em out.

That's interesting. I thought mine idled smoother, but it was probably all in my head. Like I said before, certainly wont hurt a thing putting them in. I think it's worth the small investment of money and time. We can't get anything else this cheap for these trucks!:c:


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