Loss in power...
I've noticed a loss in power in my 05 6.0.... today when i went to start it i turned the key to the on position and waited like always, the glow plug light came on the went off after a couple of seconds. but i noticed i didn't hear that buzz sound i usually hear before hittin the start position and my truck cranked and cranked and cranked for about a minute (4 15 second intervals) without firing one single bit or semming like it was trying to. i had to turn the ignition on and off a couple times before it would start... last night i added some diesel fuel supplement + cetane booster to my tank. before the truck gets to about 150 degrees it has no power at all and seems to have a bit of a miss and i'm noticing that at running temp. (190 degrees) i don't have the power i had a couple weeks ago :w:
Any ideas as to what could be my problem? Thanks for any help! |
icp sensor
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Do you have any way to check for DCT codes? It may also be a glow plug controller, or possibly FICM issue.:c:
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yea my edge pulls codes, i'm gettin a code that says FICM circut voltage low.... but it only throws the code when the truck gets turned off and the turbo timer keeps it running....
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What code are you getting? Mine is throwing P2552 all the time, of course the dealer can't find any issue with it on there test equip.:argh:I was getting P0611 before they changed my head gaskets and glow plug control module. What voltage are you getting from your batteries? If you have a multi-meter ; unhook one of your batteries so you can check each individually. once you check batt. voltage, hook em back together,start the engine, and take another reading on one of them.Without the truck running they should be 12 volts or higher, once the truck is running they should read around 14 volts.
I was doing some research on FICMs and came across a procedure for checking your FICM voltage, but before we get into that you have to have proper batt. voltage, and a good working charging system.:c: |
batteries are pretty good and it runs at 13.8 when engine is running... I think it might be my HPOP or the injectors :( the other day i added some power service diesel supplement and it seems to be running better... i was thinkin about tryin some 2 cycle oil in the fuel to see if that lubes up my fuel system and cleans out the injectors and helps them run smoother... any advice on that?
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Why do you think its the hpop? If the only code your getting refers to FICM. You first stated that you weren't hearing the injectors rattling anymore. This would lead me to think the Fuel injection control module has some sort of problem. An article I read has a way to test hpop, but it sounds kindof involved.
Diesel Technician Society What was the code that you did pull?:humm: |
Okay i have have been goin off hunches and stories from other people that have lead me to what i have been saying. My edge is pulling 2 codes. u0155- which is lost connection with instrument cluster and p1378- which is - ficm supply voltage low. both of those areonly tripped when my turbo timer keeps the enigine running w/ ignition off... common edge code when using the turbo timer.
But last night i got something real to go off of when i hooked a scan tool up to it and ran diagnostic tests. i pulled this code that my edge wasn't and maybe you can help me with this... p0261- injector circut low cylinder 1 :argh: If you know how to fix this or what part it is or can even narrow it down to my problem i would greatly appreciate it. Thanks for your help so far! |
Unfortunately the only experience I have to work with, is my own bad luck.:ouch: My truck recently had P0273, P0275, P0335, P0611. I took it to ford dealer,ended up head gaskets, and a glow plug control module. Fortunately it was still covered under the 100K engine warranty. But previous to this, I had just changed batteries. (a week prior to going to ford) Once it was in the shop the first thing they said I needed was a new alternator.:argh:over $400:argh: 'cause my voltage was still to low to diagnose. The day I picked it up and ever since I've had P2552 on my livewire.FICM Issue. ford hooked it up again, still can't pull any codes, Still hard to start, Had to jump it to get home this afternoon.:argh::argh: Still sounds like a FICM issue. I'm not sure if your warranty has expired yet. But if so here is a thread from another site that might be helpful. It's my next step.
6.0's, FICM's and Cold Start Problems - Powerstroke Nation http://www.aeswave.com/images/Produc...-DIAGTESTS.pdf |
I'm at 115k so no warranty :argh: but i need to figure this out because i have lost power and i'm getting shitty mileage now which is not cool with the price of diesel!!
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Originally Posted by crewed powerstroke
(Post 470725)
Unfortunately the only experience I have to work with, is my own bad luck.:ouch: My truck recently had P0273, P0275, P0335, P0611. I took it to ford dealer,ended up head gaskets, and a glow plug control module. Fortunately it was still covered under the 100K engine warranty. But previous to this, I had just changed batteries. (a week prior to going to ford) Once it was in the shop the first thing they said I needed was a new alternator.:argh:over $400:argh: 'cause my voltage was still to low to diagnose. The day I picked it up and ever since I've had P2552 on my livewire.FICM Issue. ford hooked it up again, still can't pull any codes, Still hard to start, Had to jump it to get home this afternoon.:argh::argh: Still sounds like a FICM issue. I'm not sure if your warranty has expired yet. But if so here is a thread from another site that might be helpful. It's my next step.
6.0's, FICM's and Cold Start Problems - Powerstroke Nation http://www.aeswave.com/images/Produc...-DIAGTESTS.pdf |
http://www.fordtechservice.dealercon...FICM_Guide.pdf
How to Fix Your FICM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums Here's some more interesting reading. Hope this might help.:c::tu: |
almost sounds like you lost an injector.:argh:
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I did an "injector buzz test"? with the scanner and everything passed...
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Did you check the screw on the FICM with a multimeter? Check with key on engine not running, check when injectors are buzzing, then with engine started. J ust did mine today. I had 48 volt w/ key on, 46 when buzzing, 41 when running. Removed FICM, took it apart, solderedit like the 1 thread said. I then put it back in the truck. I did the test again, 48 volts key on, 48 volts buzzing, 48.2 when running. I haven't road tested yet, But the injectors are buzzing louder again.:tu::c:
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Let me know if that helped you out and how your trucks runnin now...
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Truck seems to idle smoother, still takes about 8 seconds of cranking before it fires up though. :argh: I also still have P2552 code,:dang: I haven't figured that one out yet.
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Have you gained any power back?
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Seems to have the power back.:tu: I'm afraid to press the small pedal too far toooo quick; as I have just recently dropped a grand for new sneakers on it. :ouch: Did you take a multimeter and check the voltage on the screw head? It's real easy , remove the 2 screws on the degas bottle, slide out of the way a little, remove the 2 screws on the cover, remove the cover, then get someone to run the key while you check with the meter.:c:
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I haven't yet but i'll have to ASAP i've lost power and i'm gettin shitty MPG and when the engine temp it below like 150 i don't have any power at all. i need ot figure this out so that seems like the easiest first thing to test and it seems like re soldering it will be easy if thats the problem
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Speaking of easy things to try; I apologize in advance, but I was wondering if you know the last time the fuel filters were changed . Again It is a stupid question , but like my dad used to say to me; (KISS it) "keep it simple stupid". Sometimes it's the simplest things we overlook.:tu::c::humm:
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Originally Posted by crewed powerstroke
(Post 474359)
Truck seems to idle smoother, still takes about 8 seconds of cranking before it fires up though. :argh: I also still have P2552 code,:dang: I haven't figured that one out yet.
Whatever the hell that means...? Still sounds like a FICM issue? Mudstrokin - I just had very similar issues to you, no power, and it got better when warm. Truck ran awful though, ended up being injector #4 was bad on mine. |
Crewed - The filters were done about 3k miles ago... I've pulled up 2 new codes from yesterday to today :argh::argh::argh: Now i'm getting a
P0272 - cylinder 4 contribution/balance fault P0284 - cylinder 8 contribution/balance fault :argh::argh::argh::argh::argh::argh::argh: Mdub - Thats what i'm afraid of.... how much did you pay for your injector? Advance told me 235 per injector:ouch: and i haven't seen many sites on here taht sell injectors for 6.0 |
It could also be the glow plug controller.??
Chrysler OEM Parts | Dodge, Jeep, Chevrolet Genuine Parts, GMC, Pontiac, Buick, Hummer, Cadillac, Nissan, Ford, Lincoln Mercury, Kia & Suzuki |
That code?? i cleared it while driving and it popped back up again in a couple min....
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When mine was having serious issues, I had P0275,P0273,P0335 &P0611. I was also loosing coolant. After some new head gaskets for the coolant leak, and a glow plug controller, those codes are all clear. I do still have the P2552 code. I'm thinking it's a loose wire or something of that nature; as I didn't have it before the dealer visit, and it was there when I picked it up from them.:argh:( of course when I took it back to them there diag.computer doesn't show any codes, and they could care less what y SCT says):ouch::c:
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How much did the glow plug controller cost? and how did you come to the conclusion that that was your problem?? And did it run like shit b4 you replaced it then better after?
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The dealer replaced it 'cause it was still under warranty. :yeah: It did run rough until it warmed up though.:argh:
This might be worth a try.:humm: 2005 Ford F250 Diesel controls :c: |
Did the dealership pin point the problem for you or did you figure it out on your own? when its cold it cranks up in about 3 seconds runs rough for a second then has loss of power while driving until it's at running temp
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I thought it was a FICM issue when I took it in. It took almost 10sec. of cranking before it would fire up. It seemed like a gasser with a real bad miss until it warmed up. The dealer actually figured it to be the gpcm. Don't forget that mine had bad HG's, and was loosing coolant also. Normally there are some really excellent techs on this site. You could try a post on diesel in distress before trying alot of new parts without being sure, as nothing for the 6.0's are very cheap.$$$:scare2::c:
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Originally Posted by MUDSTROKIN'
(Post 476617)
Crewed - The filters were done about 3k miles ago... I've pulled up 2 new codes from yesterday to today :argh::argh::argh: Now i'm getting a
P0272 - cylinder 4 contribution/balance fault P0284 - cylinder 8 contribution/balance fault :argh::argh::argh::argh::argh::argh::argh: Mdub - Thats what i'm afraid of.... how much did you pay for your injector? Advance told me 235 per injector:ouch: and i haven't seen many sites on here taht sell injectors for 6.0 Do you always get the same cylinder codes, or does it seem to change? My buddy had an 04 that had exact same issues, we brought it in and the dealer tried telling us it need injectors 2,4,6,8. We thought it was rather odd that all the injectors on one side of the motor decided to go at once, so we ended up just putting a new FICM on it, and the issues disappeared. Truck ran great after that. This was a decision we made on our own after the dealer tried convincing us that we had wrecked them with bio-diesel. We were running WVO through a vegistroke... there was never any bio diesel ever introduced to the motor, ever. The tech kept calling it bio and told us we weren't getting enough lubricity to the injectors... this is about when we stopped listening to him at all.:argh: |
I've pulled up one of the codes for one cylinder once and i pulled up the other cylinder twice. But haven't seen them pop back up lately. i read a fault code diagnostic sheet and it said that code was cause by injectors not putting out enough fuel and something else and the cylinder being too weak. And i'm at 116k, so no warrranty :dang:
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Just for kicks ; try testing voltage on FICM srcew.:pca1::c:
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which screw is it? and which probe from the multimeter do i touch where?
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Test the FICM, good starting point. A contribution test would be awesome...
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You have to move the coolant res out of the way (two screws). Then you will see the FICM sitting just above valve cover. On top of FICM you should see a small plate with two screws holding the cover on. Remove these two screws, remove cover plate. Under the cover there should be 4 screw heads you're looking at. With a multi-meter V DC setting, take the positive or red probe to the screw nearest to the drivers fender, and the black probe to the ground of battery. The only caution here is not to touch the probe to the aluminum case while testing. You should have someone turn the key for you when you are testing. You should have 48 volts with key on not running, 48 volts while cranking, and 48 volts when running. One other caution is to have small hoses still connected to the degas bottle(coolant res.)when cranking and running ,otherwise it will push coolant on the ground. :c::pca1:
---AutoMerged DoublePost--- 6.0's, FICM's and Cold Start Problems - Powerstroke Nation |
Originally Posted by crewed powerstroke
(Post 480272)
You have to move the coolant res out of the way (two screws). Then you will see the FICM sitting just above valve cover. On top of FICM you should see a small plate with two screws holding the cover on. Remove these two screws, remove cover plate. Under the cover there should be 4 screw heads you're looking at. With a multi-meter V DC setting, take the positive or red probe to the screw nearest to the drivers fender, and the black probe to the ground of battery. The only caution here is not to touch the probe to the aluminum case while testing. You should have someone turn the key for you when you are testing. You should have 48 volts with key on not running, 48 volts while cranking, and 48 volts when running. One other caution is to have small hoses still connected to the degas bottle(coolant res.)when cranking and running ,otherwise it will push coolant on the ground. :c::pca1:
---AutoMerged DoublePost--- 6.0's, FICM's and Cold Start Problems - Powerstroke Nation Dang, that's actually pretty simple. Thanks for the info! |
:tu::c:
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I'll have to test it ASAP then if thats not it move on and see what it could possibly be next...
Thanks alot!!! |
Any update on the performance of your engine?:humm::pca1::c:
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