My injector was replaced under warranty. I've only got 55k miles on my truck. If you're going to buy an injector, just get them from the dealer, they come with a good warranty through Ford, 12months/12k miles I believe.

Do you always get the same cylinder codes, or does it seem to change? My buddy had an 04 that had exact same issues, we brought it in and the dealer tried telling us it need injectors 2,4,6,8. We thought it was rather odd that all the injectors on one side of the motor decided to go at once, so we ended up just putting a new FICM on it, and the issues disappeared. Truck ran great after that.

This was a decision we made on our own after the dealer tried convincing us that we had wrecked them with bio-diesel. We were running WVO through a vegistroke... there was never any bio diesel ever introduced to the motor, ever. The tech kept calling it bio and told us we weren't getting enough lubricity to the injectors... this is about when we stopped listening to him at all.:argh:

I've pulled up one of the codes for one cylinder once and i pulled up the other cylinder twice. But haven't seen them pop back up lately. i read a fault code diagnostic sheet and it said that code was cause by injectors not putting out enough fuel and something else and the cylinder being too weak. And i'm at 116k, so no warrranty :dang:

Just for kicks ; try testing voltage on FICM srcew.:pca1::c:

which screw is it? and which probe from the multimeter do i touch where?

Test the FICM, good starting point. A contribution test would be awesome...

You have to move the coolant res out of the way (two screws). Then you will see the FICM sitting just above valve cover. On top of FICM you should see a small plate with two screws holding the cover on. Remove these two screws, remove cover plate. Under the cover there should be 4 screw heads you're looking at. With a multi-meter V DC setting, take the positive or red probe to the screw nearest to the drivers fender, and the black probe to the ground of battery. The only caution here is not to touch the probe to the aluminum case while testing. You should have someone turn the key for you when you are testing. You should have 48 volts with key on not running, 48 volts while cranking, and 48 volts when running. One other caution is to have small hoses still connected to the degas bottle(coolant res.)when cranking and running ,otherwise it will push coolant on the ground. :c::pca1:

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

6.0's, FICM's and Cold Start Problems - Powerstroke Nation

Dang, that's actually pretty simple. Thanks for the info!

:tu::c:

I'll have to test it ASAP then if thats not it move on and see what it could possibly be next...

Thanks alot!!!

Any update on the performance of your engine?:humm::pca1::c: