Headgaskets ???
 

Have been avoiding it for sometime hoping it wasnt but i have been blowing cold air at idle for awhile now after egr delete and pushing a little bit of coolant but not puking. Now this wk i checked my degass bottle to find traces of oul in my coolant.
267k on truck arps at 55k at ford, safe to say i am in for gaskets and oil cooler?? I am in school this year so poor timing award goes to me. I might attempt this myself, my skills are ok just doing cab on :( how much for oil cooler ? Anything else i should while everything apart? Will b getting heads checked and planed
Also turbo is sticking again, so clean it again,
Replace thermostat
Flush heater core
Check waterpump
Anything else?
How much time am i looking at for this project and cost? No money for shop time
Thanks for advice guys!


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Oil in coolant is a ruptured oil cooler, not head gaskets. total job for oil cooler is probably going to be just over $300 for oil cooler and intake gaskets and other misc

So what is the small amount of coolant seepage and no hot air at idle? I was informed on psn that to hold me over fir awhile until i do it right and have coin i could re torque my arp's to 280ft lbs , could do that while in there??


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The oil can reach 75 PSI, and if you have oil in coolant then your degass bottle is going to be subjected to too much pessure causing it to puke.

I wouldn't torque the studs that high, they'll likely yield. Or do you have the old lube where they were still torquing to 245?

If you replace the oil cooler you should be replacing any rubber line in the coolant system now too, and flush the radiator out REALLY well.

Couldn't tell u if u had the old lube, i guess maybe check them to see if they are at 245lbs with torque wrench, then hopefully be ok for 6 months without heavy towing then do a cab on gasket job!
There is place in my town that does cooling systems only complete flush and pressure test with new coolant for 150$ pretty good i figure!


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I would think that no heat at idle would be a water pump problem if coolant leven is good.

Coolant gave been dropping a bit about 3 litres a month with daily driving i am going to check water pump, replace thermostat ( both original with 267k) check torque on arps and complete flush including heater core, it must be plugged up! And replace degass cap too!


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Bob, when the gaskets are blown and the cylinder pressures are constantly aerating the coolant system it's tough for it to get heat going, mine's doing the exact same thing right now. I am replacing the thermostat and waterpump as precautionary measures though, I'll see what the water pump looks like when I pull it. They suck in these trucks anyways, I've fought with poor coolant flow to my veggie tank since owning the truck. A new Alliant water pump with metal impeller blades is going in and I'm adding an in-line coolant pump back by the veggie tank to really get coolant flowing through there. We've also noticed clogged oil coolers will duplicate poor coolant flow too, not even to the point of picking it up on gauges, but to the point it wont let the veggie system stay running.

Very interesting! I am going to exhaust thr cheaper avenues first and gaskets last. If gaskets then truck is totally refreshed anyways i have seen plugged up heater core cleaned with CLR that fixed things!! Most said headgaskets right away! But i think i need everything lol no shsme in the truck its been good to me all along


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ARP came out with a giant writeup about over torquing head studs. They are supposed to be torqued to 210. Torquing them to 280 can actually stretch your head studs as you put them in. Stick to the books because your going to be very sad when you blow another head gasket.

There's an interested thread on PSA about the torquing of the studs.

For a fact, ARP used to be 245 ft/lbs with the old lube. They came out with a new lube called ultra torque, that was supposed to eliminate scatter and allow for correct torque numbers on the first pass. The new lube requires 210 ft/lbs. I would highly suggest getting it. Jegs and summit carry it.

Now... the discussion is about whether or not 210 is sufficient. A lot of guys are still going anywhere from 240-260 ft/lbs, even with the new lube. Shawn Ellerton (pilots the 1000+ rwhp 6.0s) runs 250 as well. He said he even tried going to 300 ft/lbs once and snapped a stud.

Now, my problem is... I'm willing to be none of these guys have done the math to compare the yield strength of the stud. More is not always better, it can actually yield the material and in fact not hold as much clamping force despite going to a higher torque. I've asked these guys for proof or math or anything, and get no responses. I copied the link to the thread and emailed a contact at ARP to get his thoughts on the subject, and am awaiting that response.

I'll be doing my studs in the next week or so most likely and am still trying to figure out what torque value to go to. Even though those guys are just shooting from the hip and going with "more is better" there have been enough of them doing it without issues that it does have me thinking maybe I will go above the 210. Maybe somewhere in between? Maybe 235 ish? I don't know just yet.

My shot from the hip will prob be 235ish as well, I think the 210 is a bare minimum,


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Who do you think knows the proper strength of ARP studs? ARP or hipshooter:w2:
If you want to torque them down that high why don't you get their newer studs, the ones that cost about $1000 and I think the torque for those is around 275ft-lbs.
A proper retorque to original torque used should be all you need.The problems guys were having before were from not machining heads/Black Ox gaskets/ thinking because they had studs they didn't have to let it warm up before jumping on it/trying to tow 20k lbs on race tunes because they had an EGR delete and STUDS.... A little common sense goes a long way when it comes to combustion engines.

Bob, these are some pretty high output powerstroke shops doing this as well... it's not just one or two guys.

I agree though, ARP put that spec there for a reason, not as a bare minimum. They take the yield strength of the stud and calculate a torque value (in this case 210 ft/lbs) that will force a certain % of yield on the stud, so say they will go to 75% of the yield strength of the stud. Meaning if you cover that other 25% up, the stud is junk and permanently deformed, even if it doesn't' break. These are arbitrary numbers but you get the idea.

here's the link on PSA for some good reading...IDP, MPD, and Warren - a question for you - PowerStrokeArmy

Good read but no data as far as torque strength, if you over torque a fastener beyond the tolerance of the material then it will have less actual clamping force even though it was torqued higher.

Agreed, I'm on your side with that and I've pointed that out to those guys numerous times, as soon as I ask where the math is, everyone disappears. It's not like the math is proprietary at all... it just shows that they're all guessing at numbers too. Some of the shops have done some at 210 and had trucks come back, so they just go more and more.... I don't mind people thinking outside the box and doing something other than recommended, but prove it to me!

Just wondering how heavily modified the trucks with stud failures are and if the owners were going for the outer limits of performance? Old school is mod till something breaks , fix it better then break something else! Hope these issues are settled before I do mine! I'm more preventative on mild truck, but really want reliable power . . Curious to learn more.

I don't think any of us would have issues going to 210 like ARP recommends.

Another issue that a lot of people over look is the flatness of the block, most of us backyard mechanics are not taking the entire engine out of the block, disassembling everything and bringing the block to the machine shop either you know... so if you have a truck that was heavily modified and beat on pretty hard, it's possible the block surface is crap too. In which case, torquing beyond what ARP recommends wont help either.

I'm hoping to have the cab off of my truck this weekend, I'll let you guys know what torque value I decide to go with.