Yeah at $165 you can pretty much bet those injectors are junk. I bet they were crap cores that they didn't do squat with. The biggest issue with 6.0 injectors is the stiction, so if they don't replace spool valves...

You can always put your less expensive injectors back in and sell your others off that you just bought, or vice versa.

You're still getting codes for cylinder 6? How do the rocker assemblies look? How about the pushrod? Anything bent/broken/out of place?

You said you put them back in, but didn't tell us if you swapped holes or what? Did you take your number 6 injector and put it in a hole that had no issues? You said you were having issues with 6 and 8, did you just swap those two around, or did you swap 6 and 8 with 2 and 4 or something along those lines? One bad injector in a bank can cause the others to throw codes, with the problem injector never throwing a code too. With the two Ford injectors in, are you still getting fuel dumping down into the exhaust system? Are the clips on the injector harness clipping in all the way? What are the exact codes you're getting, or are you just getting contribution faults?


Have you done a cylinder contribution test or an injector buzz test? When you turn the key forward at first and you can hear the FICM buzz the injectors, does it sound ok? How are your batteries?

Yes I swapped the #6 inj with the #2 injector and the same with #4 and #8. Problem continued at the number #6 cyl exhaust port( diesel coming out of it) and a little on #8. Now I then went an purchased two new injectors from ford and nothing changed.

Now before all the swapping of injectors I had done a buzz test and got the OK from AE. And up until putting in the new injectors in hadnt had a contribution code or any code for that matter. After putting in the new injectors in #6 n #8, I now have p0284 #8 contribution balance code being thrown. After checking connection and clearing it persists.

Now on the bent pushrods or rockers. I didn't notice anything wrong with the rockers, everything seemed to be in order. Now when it's running, the turbo is surging. Similar to when you first crank one up and it will kinda da da da da da and then straighten out(or mine did when it was cold or long interval between cranks) if that makes sense. And also I can go to the front where the cold air intake inlet is and it sounds like a knock, but you can only here it through intake. So it may be a bent pushrod I don't know I'll have to take the valve cover off and really give it a good check to be sure.

As far as how the engine actually sounds, at idle sounds pretty much normal aside from idling rough. When I rev the engine up it kinda lags for a second(it takes a little longer to rev up, sluggish) and then the turbo will come up and by that time theres so much smoke, but isn't making odd noises while at 2000-2500 rpm. It's only when I let off the throttle it knocks once while transitioning from 2000 to 700rpm but it's not real obvious so I didn't notice before.

I just recorded a video of it running at idle I can try to post. It may give some clues as to what the problem is. And the batteries were a little weak at first so I took the ones off my 7.3l an nothing changed.

How's that wiring harness look, I'd be going over that with a fine tooth comb. What happens if you unplug #8 injector and try starting again, see if it changes? Sounds like you can rule out an injector.

Have you checked your ICP readings yet? Can you read ICP actual and ICP desired for us? Might be an issue with that too...

Could this be an issue, on the ficm, I purchased it from us diesel parts an it's pre-programmed. Has anyone heard of some issue with them? I just put it on during this rebuild, so is it possible that its the FICM not being programmed properly? I ordered it for an 07 and later found that the motor is an 06 motor. The intake sticker was messed up an was not legible. Though it states the FICMs are the same for those years so I don't know just a thought.

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I unplugged the # 8 injector first and nothing changed then I unplugged #6 injector TOO. And with both of them unplugged still idled and acted as if nothing was unplugged and still heavily smoking. So is it possible that theres a crack from the fuel rail to the chamber or any thoughts? In my opinion it's not good, plus just turning off #7 alone(or any other #1-5) kills the engine. I suddenly see $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

ICP Readings

while cranking-the pressure was 1420-1460psi, desired was 1447psi. Regulator 45%, volts 0.88-1.75v

Running- 1100-1175psi, desired 1130-1200psi, regulator 33-38%, volts 1.2-1.56v

5 min of idle-950-980psi, desired 950-1022psi, regulator 32.8-34%, volts 1.15-1.3v

You can use any year FICM on any year 6.0, shouldn't matter at all. I use 03 FICM's on my 06 because I prefer the older programming.

To me it sounds like you've either got an issue with that FICM, despite what voltages it's reading, or there is something messed up with the wiring harness. If you've got two brand new injectors in those holes and when you unplug the harness nothing changes in the way it runs...sounds like those injectors are not being fired properly to me.

A crack from the fuel rail? Doubtful, the rail runs through the middle of the head, you'd likely have all sorts of other issues.

Not sure where exactly you're at in Arkansas, but BTS is in Northern Arkansas. He would be a great guy to bring this too as well. He's hard to get a hold of on the phone, so just shoot him and email. That or try calling right at 8AM on the dot as he's walking in the door and before he's crawling under a truck.

You really need to get a cylinder contribution test done and an injector buzz test at this point.

Real quick, the only thing I did different this time than others was I retaped the injector harness an main harness. You know how that black cloth tape from the factory falls apart. So I took it off, cleaned the glue off, and put a wrap with new electrical tape. Is it possible that's where something came undone an I taped over it or something similar? Be a good guess on where to start looking anyway? I plan on going over it at the connector ends for sure but it was something I forgot to mention earlier on.

If the wire harness was so bad to the point it was falling apart, I would have just replaced it myself. The wire harness' on most modern diesels seem to be ridiculously sensitive.

No the wires were fine and it an it ran fine before. I'm just really picky and the harness was all sticky and just the tape was coming off in some spots. So I rewrapped it. And a new harness is like $500 or more. Everyone likes to take advantage of the 6.0 owners. Not to change the subject but I recently ran into a guy with a 2011 6.7l cummins and tranny for $3500 so I could go that route. Or just sell it thats a good deal for cummins. Anyway I'll clean up and check the harness then post if it fixes it.

:ty: :nice: Now your thinking in the right way!! :jump: If i read this right it this cummins and trans is to put in the ford??

Yea a 6.7l cummins in a 07 Ford F250. But I'll only put a 6.7l in it if I do it at all. Plus I'd like to run an allisons tranny on it instead of the torqshift I have now. But I definately won't run a dodge tranny even though the price includes one. If I'm gonna do it, I'll do it big, and I don't care what it cost as long as it's built to last.

However, I'm gonna fully try to fix the 6.0 before I make a drastic change like that. If the solution price for the 6.0 outweighs that of the 6.7l I can get then I'll probably do it, but if the solution is a harness or similar then I'll hold off. Hell I'd put a ISX15 cummins in one if they didn't weigh 3,000 lbs. An ISL9 would be nice too.

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OK I tested the engine and injector harness. I tested them electrically and looked over them for any problems an all seems ok. So who knows.

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Is it possible it could be low compression? I meanit didn't have those symptoms before but it could have been on the verge and now it's just gotten low enough its not burning all the fuel off. I'll know when the tester gets here but it was just a thought. I really don't think that's it just because theres still fuel being poured into the cylinders with the injectors unplugged. I think it's the cups, no way are the copper rings going to fail 6 out of 6 times. Any ideas on cheap way to get cups out?