zf5 swap
 

Ive got a super good deal on a zf5 with everything i need to do the swap other than driveshafts. just to be sure everything is there, does anyone know, in detail, what is needed to do the swap?

anybody?

cross member, drive shafts, single mass flt wheel, Fairly straight forward..

Do you need tcase linkages? Everything else you listed comes with.

I think his is a dual mass though

I think it's cheaper and better in the long run to swap to the single mass since you'll be there. You do get a bit more low end noise, but once your over 5mph that goes away.

The T-case and trans W/adapter should have the linkage with it ... if not E-bay it .. :tu:

I agree, Go with a flat plate and ditch the DMF ... :tu:

and with that said .. i have had mine for 5 years, my disc looks like new, just pulled engine and all out for major work ... So exciting .. :nope:

The floor pan section around the shifter is handy to have as it unbolts from the floor. Also need the pedal cage for under the dash which must be from the same generation of truck, 87-91 if referring to your sig truck. It can be from an F-150/250/350, but needs to have the same dash your truck does otherwise it wont fit. Don't forget the clutch hydraulics as well.

Good point ...

thanks guys. i picked up all that stuff just this past weekend. got the trans, pedal assembly, clutch, flywheel, all the hydraulics, the shifter arm, the floor pan, and the crossmember for 500 bucks. i think i did pretty good on that haha

DAMN !!!!!! you stole it all ... Wish i could find that kinda deal for my dodge parts ..LOL

Sounds like a score to me, you can rarely find the transmission alone for $500. I did the ZF swap on a BB gasser, I got a complete running truck for $750 because the guy couldn't get the title. After parting out what I didn't need and buying a new clutch and hydraulics I still came out a few hundred ahead.

WOW, 2 good deals on the Ford stuff ....

cool man. im stoked to put it in the truck. wanted one for a while.

Were Waiting .... :pca1::c:

haha ill try to get as many pics as possible

ANYTHING ????? Getting bored !!!!!! .. Are We there YET ??? :w2:... :s:

I started with the pedal assembly, got the new one in, replaced the floor pan, pulled the transfer case out with the crossmember underneath it, tcase was shot thank God I have a new one sittin on the floor, and I unhooked all the wiring and trans cooler lines, that's where I'm at as of now. I only have about a day and a couple hours worth into it. Everything has been smooth except the pedal assembly that was a pain but got her done. Hope to get new trans and tcase at least set in the trucknext weekend.

Driveshafts are out as well

thats it ?? lol....

yep so far. planning to get a lot done this weekend. didnt have a lot of time to work on it last. itll get done though no worries. im getting anxious as well haha

I hear ya there.. one foot in front of the other ...


One bolt at a time ...

I hear ya there.. one foot in front of the other ...


One bolt at a time ...:tu:

OOPS!!!!

My swap took a while as removed all my interior to undercoat the floor and run wires as I was installing bucket seats and PW/PL from my parts truck as well. Drilling the hole in the firewall was easy with the dash out of the truck.

Did you get the firewall support plate for your clutch master cylinder? The firewalls in these trucks tend to flex and tear over time from the pressure of using the clutch. I used one when I did my swap to prevent the issue from coming up.

I know what you mean about the dash being weak .. had a tow truck on the side of the road , SMOKED wiring due to it pinching wiring .. I had to Butt connect it all road side and then follow to the shop so I could get it done right ... What a PITA !!!! it was a 90 SuperDuty 7.3IDI 5spd ..

no i didnt i could probably fab one if its just a simple support plate

Its multi-shaped plate that would need to be fabbed up I think ... I have never seen one of these plates for my self .. so

I just fabbed up stuff that would work real good, he's not worring about it thats for sure ..

You can still get them from the dealership and they are quite affordable, I think the 87-91 version was the most expensive at like $15-$20. I believe the older one was less than $10. the 92 and newer trucks were re-enforced from the factory. I might still have the part number somewhere...

Good to know... :tu:

yea if you find the numer let me know!

I 2nd that .. :yeah:

I will go through my filing cabinet, I try to save all that stuff for future reference.

Alright, I found some numbers.

Small kit for 83-87 trucks is-E3TZ 7K509 A
Small kit for 88-94 trucks is-E8TZ 7K509 A

There is/was a larger kit if your firewall was badly torn, ran about $100 but have heard rumors it's no longer available. If you are starting with a good firewall, the small kit should ensure you don't have any issues in the future. These small kits are simply a plate that you attach to the inside of your firewall with the existing clutch master bolts. As I said before, they are quite affordable both being under $20.

Thanks a ton .. i will get one before its an issue with my truck ..

sweet thanks man

...looked for the part number everywhere - no way.
Does anybody know the parts numbers of the discussed sheet metal and the bushings in the pedal mechanism?
Thanks.
Jörg

Should I or shouldn't I?
 

I bought 1983 6.2L GMC burb 1/2 ton 6/12/13 owned by a semi-retired travel agent who babied his Suburban for all 31 years.
Truck has not been driven for 5 years when I found it.
I upgraded the interior and did some exterior work and added barn doors.
I intentionall.y skipped doing the engine compartment other than replacing the glow plugs, belts and hoses for safety reasons.
The 6.2 engine runs perfectly and has 125,000 original miles and has consistently gotten 18-20 MPG over the last year.
Starts instantly whether it's 25* or 75* - It can sit for a week or two or even a month and it still starts instantly. No smoke or mechanical issues.
I did replace some dried out seals which showed up a few months into owning the vehicle and I replaced 2 pressure oil hoses last week that were beginning to leak
It uses minimal to no oil - it must use some oil but very little.
I change the oil at 2,000 religiously.
I commute once or twice a week 100 miles one way and the 6.2L diesel performs perfectly for an OLD LADY.

For PHASE @ I am considering putting in a 4bt Cummins engine? Is a 1/2T 1983 LT GMC frame big enough to handle the 4bt Cummins engine and handle the 6,000 of chassis?
I've read the 4bt Cummins vibrate a lot where the 6's don't seem to? Would a 6bt then be better to install?

I also have a 1999 GAS GMC 7.4 2500 HD.
Would I be better off selling the 7.4 engine in the 2500 series and using the 1999 frame instead of the 1983 frame and putting the 4 or 6bt into the 1999 2500?

The 1983 6.2L truck has never been off-road or driven over 65 mph.

Whenever I drive the 1983 I am always stopped by someone admiring the condition the truck is in.

Whatever vehicle I end up going with the other is going to be sold.

Thank you

Doug (dhb)
doug@dougbell.com
DougBell.com

You might be better off posting in the Chevy section of the forum instead of the Ford section. :tu:

Chevy/GMC 6.2L and 6.5L - Diesel Bombers

Yeah the 6.2-6.5 ... what a hermafredite of the Diesel world ... and hard as all get out to make just right ....
:argh::ouch::td::nope:

Sure your not thinking of the 350 diesel chevy used in the early 80's? The 6.2/6.5 may not have always been as powerful, but they seemed as reliable and usually got better mpg. The 350 diesel was an abortion as most got swapped for the gas version.