After looking at the prices some of these companies are trying to get for a set of Traction bars, It's no wonder so many people are trying to make them themselves!
I had some 2"X.250"wall DOM left over from doing a LCA modification to my rock buggy, so I decided to use that as my bar.



I also decided to go with 3/4" X 3/4" heims with misalignment bushings, Tube Inserts, and jam nuts. I probably didn't need the misalignment bushings with a stock suspension, but you never know, I might want that much flex later on...

My total cost on the heims was $200.00. Since I already had the tube, this was my only "Real" expense in making these.



The 2" X.250" DOM has an I.D. of 1.5", so I needed a couple sleeves to adapt the tube inserts into the tube. I needed 2 different sizes because my inserts were 2 different sizes. The shop I bought them from ran out of the thicker ones. No real disadvantage here, other than complicating the adaption process by needing 2 different size adapter tubes. I had this tube laying around also.
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I first cut the sleeves to length.
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Then, I cut a long horizontal notch in the 2" tube. I decided to do this instead of rosebud welds to hold the sleeve tube in the 2" tube. I figure it will be stronger this way.
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After trimming the burrs out of the tube, I installed the sleeve tubes using a BFH.
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Next, I welded the sleeves in, on the horizontal notch and around the end. Then I ground the welds on the horizontal notch smooth.
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Next, I placed a loose bolt in the threaded end of the Tube insert to protect the threads during welding and I welded the insert into the sleeve. I made several passes, then ground the weld smooth, for aesthetics.
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Not the best looking, but it's good enough for who it's for!

After cooling, I made sure the Heim still screwed all the way in.
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Then I repeated the process for the second bar.
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Now, with 1 end on both bars complete, it was time to move to building the truck frame mount for the traction bars.

I knew when I built my cross member/Skid plate, that I would be using that as a platform for the traction bars as well. A little extra planning on my part on the front side of all the modifications helped me keep welding to the frame to an absolute minimum.

I planned to have the traction bars run just outside the frame. This would help me keep my frame mount for them higher than the bottom of the skid, and eliminate interference with the Fuel tank skid that will be built later. It also provides a pretty straight shot to the axle, under the u-bolts.

First, I drilled a big hole for the flanged lock nut I'll be using.
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I test fit the nut as I drilled to make sure I had an interference fit when I was done drilling.
I then drilled the other side in the same manner.
Again, I used a loose bolt to protect the threads while welding.
The reason I use a loose bolt is I just need something to keep weld spatter etc out of the threads. I also found out long ago, if you run the correct size bolt into the threads, you run the risk of Galling the threads when you try to remove the bolt, During welding, the threads have a tendency to heat bond, causing difficulty removing and essentially, ruining the work you just did.
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Then, I welded the nut into the cross member, and ground any protrusions flat.
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I repeated this process for the other side.
Next, I bolted a heim joint, and the piece I intend to use as the starting point for my bracket into the cross member.
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I then could come up with a shape for the top piece of my bracket. after marking it out on a piece of flat stock, I cut this piece out.
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I used the same procedure to come up with a piece for the other side.
Next, I tacked the top piece in, but ONLY to the outer portion of my bracket!
I intend to remove the bracket once all pieces are in place, so I can weld it up inside and out with it off the truck.
Next, I marked out the front piece of my bracket on a piece of flat stock.
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I repeated this for the other side, so I could cut them at the same time.
After tacking them in place, I removed the basic bracket for welding.
The "D" is for Driver's side the "P" is for passenger side.
I welded them up inside and out and ground the outside welds smooth.
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Notice that I left the front piece kind of long,I bent the front piece around the bracket to add a little strength to it. Then I put the brackets back on the cross member, and tacked them in place.
I removed the heims and bolts and then fully welded the brackets to the cross member.
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I ended up adding the rear gusset and grinding the weld smooth after the bracket was welded to the cross member.
Then, I painted the brackets.
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Next, I installed the traction bar to the frame mount, then with the axle heim mocked up in the axle brackets, I tack welded the brackets to the axle, making sure the heim was centered under the axle.
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Next I obtained the final length of the bar, by mocking up the rear heim and the track bar, and trimmed it to length. Here is the second test fit.
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After removing the Track bar, I finished welding the Axle brackets, cleaned them up, and painted them.
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Now that the bar is trimmed to its final length, It’s time to install the last Heims.
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Again, when welding, be sure to block the threaded hole, and do not overheat the threaded insert, or the threads may gall. Grind to final shape, Assemble the Track bar, mask off the heims and paint. My bars ended up 80” long.
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My brackets are about 2” apart. Since my track bars will not be installed when I off road the truck hard, (Light wheeling, I’ll leave them on.) I cut some 2” spacers to be tightened up between the brackets to keep rocks etc from bending or deforming the brackets to the point where the track bar can’t be installed.
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After this pic was taken, I painted them.

Install both track bars on the truck.
Lengthen the track bar by rotating it, putting the track bar under slight compression, and tighten the jam nuts.

Final install pics.
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I’ll post up my test drive impressions a little later.

Any questions or comments feel free to post them up!

 

Not Bad

 

Soooo, how much for another set just like that for my truck?!

 

You buy the parts, bring your truck to me here in Arizona where it's WARM to work on it, and I'll build you a set!!

 

Thanks for the write-up! I've been thinking of building a set of traction bars for my truck. The wheel-hop in snow, sand, gravel, wet pavement, dry pavement, whatever is enough to make a feller pee blood! That looks like a pretty good design, other then I'm wondering how much the Heim Joints are gonna rattle. I built a '67 pro-street Camaro several years ago with ladder bars and the Heims rattled all the time... drove me nuts. I'm thinking, for my application, urethane bushings would suit me better.

 

Looks good. Like was said before, I hope they dont start to chatter on you. I have been building four, and three links for years and I love rod ends for how easy they are to install but hate the chatter they get after use. The worst ones are the 3 point rod ends that the tractors use. You will see guys use those (I tried it to) and man they will get a TON of slop in them after a while. Add dirt and grit, and it just speeds up the process. Remember that you guys need to use jamb nuts so that the threads dont get sloppy.

 

I'm always up for road trips! Plus I've never been to AZ b4... Something new

 

dieseldude03, you might consider Rubicon Express or Johnny joints with rebuildable UHMWP inserts.
toolmanoffroad, I'm not too worried about the rod ends, but thanks.

Careful, Red Rattler, you might like it here, and never go back! My Dad was originally from Wisconsin, Independance/ Whitehall area. He moved here in 1957... now, he just goes back for Deer hunting.