I wanted to put a big line kit on my 3rd Gen, but I couldn't see spending $70.00 plus shipping on rubber hose and pushlocks.

I decided to build my own Big line kit, sourcing steel braided line and AN fittings from Summit. Not only would I be able to do it for less money, I ended up with what I feel to be a "Nicer" looking solution.

These are the P/N you will need if you choose to do what I did.

EAR-807692ERL -6 to Banjo(12mmX1.5)
RUS-670510 -6 to 12mmX1.5
SUM-220687 -6 to 90 hose swivel
SUM-230603 -6 S.S. hose, 3 ft.

If you want the ability to monitor your fuel PSI at the input of your CP3, you will have to order a Banjo bolt that is drilled and tapped, or drill and tap yours.

I ordered mine from Diesel Manor, when I ordered my guages, so I already had it.

Here are some pics from the install.

Your kit will look something like this:



First step is easy, just put the -6 90 swivel on the end of the hose and tighten down. If you aren't familiar with AN hose fittings, first take the threaded locking collar off(In my case, it's the red piece of the fitting) the fitting and put the hose inside that, then place the threaded end of the 90 piece up to it, (In my case the Blue part of the fitting)push together and thread it on.

Should look like this when you are done.



Before beginning work on yur vehicle, it is wise to disconect the battery!! The starter and fuel filter housing are on same side of motor. The starter has exposed connections!

Next, remove the line that runs from the bottom of your filter housing to your CP3 pump. This is easiest from underneath the truck. After removal, I took a pic comparing the banjo bolts. Which one do you think will flow more?



NOTE: it is entirely up to you if you want the 90 at your filter housing, and the banjo at your CP3, it can be done either way. The fit would be better with the 90 at the CP3, but I wanted to monitor fuel PSI at my CP3, that's why I did the Banjo there.

Next, screw the -6 to 12mmX1.5 (PN RUS-670510) into bottom of filter housing. This is easiest done through the Driver's side wheel well. Temporarily attach your 90 and hose to this, running hose up to the termination point of the CP3. Temporarily attach your banjo fitting to the CP3 and remove the threaded collar.
Lay hose next to banjo fitting and with a slight bow in hose, mark the hose for correct length. (It's important that hose be a little longer than required for ease of installation) Remove your banjo and 90 and hose from truck.

When I cut braided steel hose, I use a grinder with a steel cut off wheel. If you have some hose shears, then by all means, use them.
Before cutting, I wrap the steel braid tightly with electrical tape where I marked the hose, then cut. I do this to maintain some control of the steel braid shell. Save the remaining portion of hose, it is long enough to make another hose out of it.
After cutting, remove the tape and slip the threaded portion of the banjo fitting over the hose. (In my case, it's the red part). Next, thouroughly CLEAN the inside of hose! I use a few Q-tip swabs to start, then rinse with solvent, and check with swabs again.

Next put the threaded banjo fitting up to it(In my case the Blue part of the fitting) push together and thread it on.

Now, your hose should look like this:



Attach the 90 end at the filter, leaving it loose enough so the 90 will spin.
Using supplied aluminum (In some cases aluminum with o-ring) gaskets, attatch banjo fitting to CP3. tighten connection.
At filter end, tighten 90 end.

Here's a pic of the CP3 end of the hose:



Again, Please note I used the tapped Banjo bolt that Diesel Manor sells.

Here is a pic of the bottom of the filter housing taken through the driver fenderwell:



This pic is taken from top of the engine at the CP3 looking back toward the filter housing.


Connect the battery, turn key on and check for leaks, if none, start truck.

Feel free to ask questions as always!

 

nice write up

They also sell black AN fittings on jegs too.

 

Yes they do!

 

As usual, another excellent tech article Bill. I went out and looked at my truck, and everything seems self explanatory, but I have two questions. What keeps the hose in the fittings? Also, on a stock truck, does this provide any benefit, or would it hurt anything, as the fuel lines to the filter are still 1/4 or whatever factory is? I definitely like the bling factor if nothing else.

 

Nice

 

I'll see if I can explain it satisfactorily without taking more pics, but if you still don't understand, I'll be more than happy to add a "Tutorial" post showing the steps to putting the hose together.

First the simple answer:
The hose is "Captured" and compressed between the Blue and Red pieces of the fitting.

In my pics:

The red piece goes on the outside of the steel braided hose. It has threads machined inside of it.

The blue piece has a tapered sleeve that fits inside the hose, ramping up to matching threads on the outside of it.

You slide the Red piece over the hose, the blue piece inside the hose, the threads touch, and as you screw the 2 pieces together, the red piece progressively clamps the hose, as the two pieces get closer together, the clamping force increases as it encounters the progressively larger taper of the blue piece.

As far as a stock truck, with no bombs, (Programmers, performance enhancers, Etc.) I'd say the only thing you are going to get out of this is Bling.

This was done on my truck in preparation for additional fueling mods.
IMHO, this mod does eliminate the most restrictive piece in the "Stock" fueling system, which I think is a great starting point. It also gives you a point right at the CP3 inlet to monitor fuel pressure.

The feed line from the tank to the fuel filter is larger than this one, a little under 3/8".

Additional info:
The Stock line between the CP3 and Fuel filter that this mod replaces measures about .215" Inside Diameter, which is about 5.5 MM (VERY TINY). If we don't count the 2 directional changes accomplished by Banjo fitting of the stock line, (mine makes these directional changes, too...) there are 6 bends for an approximate total of 420 degrees of bend in the stock piece. There are pressure and flow losses over each of those, as well.
You are replacing it with a 3/8" ID line, which is larger, essentially straight, with one 90 in comparison.

As far as hurting anything, absolutely not.

Hope this helps!

 

Thanks, I just couldn't figure that out as I have never used any of these types of fittings. So if I am not installing a fuel pressure gauge, I would just use the stock bolt that the factory fuel line is presently mounted with to the CP3 on the new line? Sorry for all the ???s

 

No Problem Jeff! You don't have to apologize to me for asking questions!

My recommendation if you are not going to run a fuel PSI guage, is put a 90 there.
It will flow better than the banjo anyway. If you decide later you want to run a Guage, I think there is a 90 with a guage fitting on it available, so you would just change that out.

For example to do what I think you want to do, You will need to order this:

2 Each- RUS-670510 -6 to 12mmX1.5
2 Each- SUM-220687 -6 to 90 hose swivel
1 Each- SUM-230603 -6 S.S. hose, 3 ft.

 

That's exactly what I wanted to do, thanks again

 

thanks, good write up

btw, pep boys carries AN fittings they were black and grey.