do what cummins150 said wire in a heavy duty push button,BTW the cigarette lighter in the ashtray is a good location for push button. remove the lighter and install switch,perfect anti-theft or anti-whoever device.LOL!:w2::yeah:

alright:c: so now you know the starter, works and the engine runs. leave the engine alone now, i want to find out if your trucks electrical system works correctly after all the dicking around under there. ive got a feeling that ford starter relay is fried. you dont have to use it if you are going to use a push button starter switch with your dodge starter. for right now lets just use it as a place to bolt all your fusible links that power your truck.Attachment 40831
this is the next step i want you to cover, i have 3 things on here that we need to accomplish.
1: i want you to put the fuseable links back on the starter relay, and on the same stud run a power wire to the battery, dont use the other side of it, or either of the two small ones, we are just using it as an insulated stud to attatch the f-links and battery cable. you still have your main battery cable going to the starters large post, and you ground the battery to the engine. once we do that i want you to turn the key on, check everything, lights horn wipers blinkers every thing that worked before check it now.
2: we need to comeup with how you want to "start" the truck, do you want to figure out whats wrong with it so you can start it with the key? or do you want to just use a pushbutton switch? the wire numberd 2 in my diagram will connect to what ever you want to use.
3: do you still have the wire that is powered when the key is on, that used to be the power to the ignition coil on your 460? that is the wire i want you to use to power your injector pump fuel soleniod.

1. Lights, blinkers, wipers, radio, brake lights are all good.

2. Assuming my ford relay is fried, I could try a new one and see if that fixes it, but if not, let's go with a push button switch. I already got one laying here in my garage.

3.Yes I do! It is still hooked up the injector pump.

alright, run a 10ga wire with an inline fuse from your battery to where ever you mount your starter switch and then to the small stud on the starter. pushing that will crank your engine. So to start your truck you will turn the key on and push the starter button, keep in mind that your truck will start in gear and weather or not the clutch is pushed in, so get in a habit of keeping the truck in neutral, and pushing the clutch in so you dont run over someone. you can always go back and fix the fender relay later.

once you have that done, find the wires for your temp and oil gauges they will be single wire connectors with the same 90degree rubber push on boots like the I terminal on the fender relay did, they will be near where ever your old sending units were on your v8 wiring harness. what we are going to do is take your ford oil and temp sending units out of the 460 and adapt them to the cummins with brass pipe bushings. dont get confused with the 2 wire temp sending unit for your old ecm harness, the way you will test this is: turn your key on, take your test light ground it with the clamp, then go look at your gauges, look at where they are, then go back under the hood, put the lead of the test light into your suspected wire, if it lights up go back and see if a gauge moved, if one moves then you have found the wire for that gauge, it works because the bulb in the test light creates resistance to ground, simulating a sending unit, but it will also protect that circuit from shorting out in case you found the wrong hot wire and tried to ground it. the sending units work by modifying a ground with more or less resistance to the engine block with changing pressure or temp.

Alright, I've been busy putting the front back together. I added a push button start. Turn the key, push the button, Cummins fires right up. Turn the key off, engine shuts off. I decided to use the radiator from the 92 Dodge and the intercooler as well, both hooked up nicely.
List to do:
water temp. sensor
alternator,
downpipe/exhuast
transfer case and get a driveshaft made.
Attachment 40815
Attachment 40816
Attachment 40817
Attachment 40818
Attachment 40819

Getting close for the first test drive :jump:

HELL YES,MAN. LOOKIN' GOOD.:rocking::tu:

Welcome to the Fummins world, you really cant describe the first test drive in words :c:

now go buy an external voltage regulator for a 91 dodge d250 so we can get around the ecm non-sense, your going to hear/read a bunch of confusing hullabaloo about using a ford regulator with 15 wires on it, or " you have to use the ridiculos dodge vacum tube ecm thats rattling around in the fender well" dont listen to it, its not that hard.:scare2:

X2 :tu:

hell yeah and you cant describe the look on peoples faces who recognize the sound of that engine when you roll up next to them.:rocking::rocking:

I like the looks of that truck that cummins will make great! Kudos to you guys for givin the help instead bustin his balls. :c:

Filled the truck with antifreeze, bought some Royal Purple synthetic 5w-30 for the Getrag (4+1 overfill :up2:), t-case fluid, and some LS oil for the axle and a gasket since it was starting to leak before I parked it. I won't hear anything until tomorrow about my driveshaft. My goal for now is to replace all fluids and hook up this alternator so all that I'll have left to do is put my driveshaft in and drive to my friends house to put an exhuast system on. Cumminsf150, I bought the regulator, the pigtail for it and a 4 pin relay (RL44). Is that relay sufficient enough? It says its 40 amp, but that's all AutoZone had.

yea that should work fine. now you just need a key switched power source to turn on the relay.

Just got word that my driveshaft should be ready this afternoon :rocking:

Cumminsf150, I was looking at your diagram, and the colors look accurate but I wanted to double check before I wired this up.
1. The black wire (not the ground wire) coming from the alternator, is that an inline fuse between the alt and battery?
2. The black box with the teal and blue wires, is that where the old harness was?
3. On the relay can I just use the same wire that is powering my injection pump to wire to the relay?
4. On the relay, #30 goes to the (+) post on battery. #86 is the ground. But on #85 and #87, Im guessing #85 is the key on power and #87 is the teal wire going to the battery?

3 wires from the alternator, plus 1 that is grounded already. I got a teal/green, blue and black wire.

Attachment 40768

Then the teal/green and blue wire go into this connector. Then on the other side is a blue and brownish wire. Leave this connector on or cut it? The black wire has a snap connector end to it.http://i438.photobucket.com/albums/q...7/DSCN1418.jpg

Here's what the relay packaging says:Attachment 40769

as far as i can tell from looking at it the plastic block bolted to the alternator is just a fancy connector , the large gauge black wire is the main charge wire going to the battery, the connector that the green and blue alternator wires go into, that has the other two wires, those other two wires originally powered the dodge ac compressor clutch, so you can omit that if you want to. I just cut the ac related wires off and kept the connector. as far as wiring the relay, 85 and 86 are the two ends of the relay coil that control the higher amprage circuit for the field coil and power to the voltage regulator. the coil in your relay can work with either polarity so 85 and 86 can be either power or ground as long as the other is the opposite. so make 86 the ground for the relay, make 85 the wire that goes to your switched power source. I suppose you could use your IP power for that, although you may not want anything else connected to that circuit just to keep it simpler since a blown fuse on that circuit will shut the whole truck down. there is a wire in the ford harness that powered the ford alternators internal regulator, thats what i used on mine to run the relay. Make pin 30 be the power for your relay, use a fuse if you like, then pin 87 will be connected to the blue wire going to the alternator as well as the blue wire going to the regulator. then the green wire runs between the regulator and the alternator. The way it works is the relay will send 12v+ to voltage regulators blue wire and the alternators field coil on the blue wire, then the regulator senses its input voltage on the blue wire and then signals the alternator to put out mre or less power.

How much do you want for the toasted starter?

I could really use some parts since i'm in Iceland and a new starter here is COSTLY !!!

My starter anchor got burnt so i have to pull my truck each day for the last 3 weeks to get it running and keep it running for the whole day :ouch:

But this project is totally awesome, hope the rest goes well... nothing beats a cummins... not EVEN a Duramax ;)

shit man just send us the money and im sure we could just ship you one at u.s. cost.

Well boys, I just got in from my first drive, and it was AWESOME!!! :rocking: I met a couple of buddies at the Ingles parking lot and one of them said "You got the coolest sh*t!!" lol. I wasn't use to the engine shaking the truck and I was nervous but excited at the same time. Cumminsf150, I greatly appreciate all the help from you and all the rest of you guys, couldn't have done without yall :c: I'll be posting some pics and a HQ video tomorrow after I wash her. :tu:

good job,have fun.
:rocking:

now go back to school and cut some leg:choochoo::choochoo:

How about an update?:humm::w2:

thats what i was just wondrin? cut any high scool leg with that rig yet?

lol. Sorry it's been a while. I've moved since my last post and I've gone back to school which is away from home. I traded tires with my brother. I now got his set of 38x15.50 Mickey Thompson Baja Claws, also I re-tinted the windows and installed a 4 inch straight pipe exhaust with a 5 inch tip :yeah: Here is a walk around and exhaust video, I'll try to get a drive by tomorrow.

1987 Ford Cummins - YouTube

Thanks for the video. That truck is very slick for a 1987. Keep up the good work!:tu:

well fuck yeah!:rocking::rocking::rocking:

Hey, im gonna be doing this swap into a 1985 f250. i was just curious to what u did for motor mounts? and id just like to say that this write up will really help me get my swap done.
Tyler

i used stock 91 dodge mounts and built an adapter bracket onto the stock block adapter that i turned upside down . Once you remove the ford brackets there are holes you can use to bolt the dodge mounts to.

Hey cumminsf150, what did u do with ur hose for ur brakes?

i assume you mean the vacuum booster? on my swap the 91.5 cummins has a vacuum pump that supplies vacuum to the dodge booster, so all i did was take the dodge hose and plumb it to my brake booster, thats part of why i bought the donor truck that i did, it literally had everything i needed. Also, for that year dodge the power steering pressure hose was 3/8, same as the ford, so all i had to do was use the dodge end off the pump and the ford end going into the gear box, i just used a cheap brass crimp on sleeve to attatch the ford end to the hose.

Thanks for the info. also, thanks for info in the pm. i can't reply yet since im a new member.

U guys r awesome. im new to this scene

glad to see you here.

What did u do for ur fuel system?

12vturd1985... I am doing the same swap. 1st gen in my 85 F350 4x4. I used a dodge NV4500 5 speed adapted to a ford 205 t-case. If you go that route wont need to adapt a ford tranny to the cummins and can use the cummins starter, the ford 205 t-case allowed me to use the stock speedometer cable.
Motor mounts, I used the mounts from autoworld, worked great.
Fuel system, 5/16 hose from lift pump to fuel line thats aready there but will need a return line, I am still working on that. I still have to plumb up a radiator, intercooler, wire the dodge alternator, throttle cable and get new drive shafts made.

Good luck. There is plenty of help here just ask. Cumminsf150 has given lots of good advise

What I have done so far on My 85 F350 4x4

What are you using for the radiator, intercooler?

For wiring up the Dodge alternator, I had to add an external regulator, but I believe the pre-1992 Fords were already externally regulated. Even if you can't use the factory regulator, they shouldn't be but about $20 at any parts store.

I have picked up a super nice intercooler from a 99 superduty, radiator I am not sure yet, I have looked at the dodge which would take guess work out of buying hoses, but have had some suggestions to buy radiator for a 85 ford that had the 6.9 diesel.
Havnt even looked at alternator yet... well maybe for a minute..

Nice find on the intercooler. I've found a few on Craigslist, but havent got around to doing it yet. On my 94, switching from the gas to diesel radiator required changing the core support as well, and I would assume it would be the same for your 85. The diesel radiator is considerably bigger than the gas radiators. The problem with the Dodge radiator would be figuring out a way to get it bolted in.

I dont mind cutting, welding and fabing some brackets to make the dodge radiator work, still scratching my head on this...

well with the 91 dodge radiator al i had to do was cut two holes in the bottom of the core support for the little rubber bushing on the bottom to sit in and then modify the top hold down brakets and welded i little tab to bolt them to. I say get a forst gen dodge radiator.