Yeah I built my own mounts. I copied ford cummins design. Since I can weld and all it wasnt hard....Just a couple hrs of work cutting and welding the steel,it was cheaper..They wanted $225 for the pair..I wasnt paying that, for a couple pieces of steel. With my 40s and 4.56s,id probably need to go to 3.73s,I would say if that guess is correct.you might want 3.50s which is what is stock in a 73-79 ford truck/bronco most of the time.I can go 70mph on the high way,but the rpms are a little higher than they need to be,Thats the only reason I would change them,just so im not reving out a little higher,that, and it would be even better on fuel..

Fair enough, I know a good welder, but it might be cheaper to just buy the mounts than own him a favour :ouch:

With the motor coming back that far, did you have any trouble with shifter locations? Tcase and Tranny?

i got your e-mail and sent you one back.
i made my own mounts too but the shifter location turned out perfect in my Bronco, although i did make a new shifter for the tranny and linkage for the transfercase.

For me using the 727, the shift pattern is backwards, So I just put my B&M shifter in...As for T case and all. I used a JEEP 727 tailshaft and housing, It is shorter than the diesel 727. I then put the shorter shaft and housing onto the diesel 727. That shorter trans length plus the advance adapter for the T case allowed me the keep my T case in the exact spot. I just flipped the frame mount for the T case upside down cause the T case had to sit higher than original. I DID NOT have to do ANYTHING to my driveshafts,just bolt them up.

Hello, I am new to this forum. I am interested in billing a diesel 78-79 bronco. Since it looks like you have done this before I was hoping you could give me some info. How much it costs, What year cummins is best, wiring, power, fuel mileage ect.

Thank you

I still have this truck. Recently, I lowered the t-case down 4.5 inches and made a custom mount for it, as well as flipping the side t-case mount upside down and re-drilling some of the holes. I finally was able to eliminate the double cardan joint in the driveshaft that failed a couple times over the years. Now the driveshaft only has two 1350 u-joints, each one running at a 9 degree angle.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...9f856ec327.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...1c64e04a48.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...c197838cb4.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...dbae0a8d89.jpg

Nice dude. I added 4 more inches of lift and had to have a new rear shaft made. A few months later my cardin joint failed and when I took the shaft back to be repaired, I apparently twisted the splines on the slip yoke. So a new shaft was made again. Im now turning 44 inch pitbull rockers. So I take it easy on the take off now. I dont know how you havent blown that 9 inch yet with all that torque. Haha

The 9" is very tough. I do plan on getting a trac-loc with 35 spline axles at some point.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...d635f3e91d.jpg

I need a newer boost gauge that goes higher if I change the turbo....

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...35a8f70863.jpg
The OEM H1C turbo was VERY bad. lol Making weird noises, and losing boost. I took it apart, there was about 1/8" of end play in the bushing. lol A bit more than optimal. SO I rebuilt the turbo and upgraded it with a H1E housing and wheel from Gillett diesel. I also installed a 7.3 F350 intercooler in the Bronco and fabbed up all the pipes for it, including the intake pipe. I now get 39 psi of boost. Also replaced the VE pump with one I found "open-box" on ebay for $250, unknown origin. I believe the pump was from a tractor, but not positive. The cold start was missing, but everything else is similar to the original pump.