Gettin' it together,,,
 

I got started on my Ford/Cummins swap about 2 months ago, and thought it would just fall into place. WRONG!! I started with a 1984 F350 CC 4 X 4 dually and a gas suckin' 460. Plenty of power, but if I left it running at the gas pumps,, it would never fill up. I use my truck in my construction business, but 7MPG just ain't gonna get it. Beside,,, nothing like the sound of a Cummins!

I bought a '90 Cummins 5.9 and a Getrag 360, and started building mounts. I've only had this thing in and out maybe,,,,,,,,,,,, 1000 times or so. I'm finally to the "put it together" stage of my swap, and I can't wait. I've tried to take pics as I worked on it, but once I would get started, I would forget the camera was laying on the steam cleaner, only 10 feet away.

My wife has been a big help in the swap, and isn't afraid of getting her hands dirty. Sometimes, I think she is more excited than I am.

Here's a few pics of the engine removal,, the Cummins,, and the engine mounts I built. I can only post 10 pics at a time, so I have more to come. :jump:

Here's a few more pics of my swap. I found that the Ford engine and all the drivetrain isn't centered up as I has ASSumed. It is offset about 1 5/8" to the passengers side, so I got to build a second set of motor mounts. :argh: It sits in place now just like it was born there.

I had to cut the original throttle bracket, to clear the '96 vacuum/power steering pump. I added an offset to the bottom of the bracket to be able to bolt it back in place on the block. A bushing, and a brass 90 and the Ford oil pressure sending unit is in place. Factory guages should work now.

I was able to use the original Ford transmission crossmember with a little modificaton and it bolted up to the Getrag mount. It might need a bit more modifying to clear the front driveshaft, but that is a few weeks away.

I am using a Dana 24 divorced transfer case, and built a crossmember from 7" C-channel to avoid any flex that it might have. (upside down in pic) I was able to get a seal/gasket kit from Greg's Bronco Graveyard for the Dana 24. I hear the Dana is comparable in strength to the NP205. We will see how it hold up to a Cummins. I used a holesaw to cut holes in the floor to access the top of the frame so I could drill holes for the crossmember. I will insert rubber firewall plugs to seal the floor off, once the crossmember is in place.

Finally,, I painted the frame black (Rustolium Professional), and the firewall white acrylic, and I'm about ready to put the engine in for the last time. I held the engine forward an inch or two, so the Getrag shifter will hit the original hole in the floor. I don't know if I will be using the Cummins fan, or an electric fan now, but either will be fine with me. Hope to have everything bolted in by the weekend, then the front clip goes back on, and time for hoses and wiring,,,,,,,,,,,

Looking great!!! Keep up the good work!

You have to have that engine as far back as possible to use the stock fan. Looks like a real nice job you're doing.:tu:

Thanks,,, I kinda thougth it might be too far forward to use the stock fan, but using the existing hole in the floor is a good tradeoff I thought. I left enough room that I just can get the back valve cover off if I need to.

I've been working about 8 days a week (ok,, maybe closer to 7) for a while now,,, so I haven't had much time to put it together, but I think this weekend I should get a few things done. Just trying to take some time to go over the little details as I have the chance, rather than waiting until the engine and tranny are bolted in and have to work around them.

Finally got a little work done today, and I do mean "little". The engine and tranny are bolted in now. :jump: I was going to move the Cummins throttle linkage back and use the Ford throttle cable, but decided there had to be an easier way. The Ford cable is 23" on all gas V8s in '84, but the 300 6 cyl. uses a 31.5 inch cable. Should work out with alot less fabrication. I just picked it up tonight, so tomorrow, that should be done. I have my slave cylinder now, so hopefully, the clutch will be working tomorrow. I'm going to leave the front clip off until I have alot of the little things done under the hood, cause it is so much easier to reach things standing up.

I've ordered some of my parts online from Rock Auto, and Clearly Auto, and so far, out of 4 or 5 parts ordered, they all were MADE IN USA . AND,, the price was 30 -60 % less than the price at Napa or Advance Auto. Not enough MADE IN USA around these days.

I had a chance this weekend to get a little more done on my Cummins project. The throttle cable is hooked up now, and the Ford 300 - 6cyl. cable worked out great. I welded the throttle attachment tab from the 460 to the Cummins bracket, and it works great. No problem hitting WOT.

Power steering hose wasn't quite so easy. I ended up using the Ford hose, and attached the pump end of a Dodge hose to it with a compression fitting. I had to heat the tubing and bend it a little to clear the motor mounts. I tried to find a shop in my area that could make one from scratch, but no luck.

I pulled the timing cover and checked the KDP. Looked good, but I secured it just to be on the safe side. Gave me the chance to put in a new front crank seal.

I set the front clip back on for the day, and was able to get a top radiator hose to fit using the Ford radiator. The bottom hose will take a bit more work, but hope to get to it this week. I set the engine a couple inches away from the firewall, so my only option for cooling is an electric fan. Does it make a difference if it is a pusher or a puller?? Does it move the same air? I will be putting the front clip back on this week for the final time. Time to start the wiring.

I figured as long as the truck is in pieces,, might be a good chance to go through anything that might need replaced. I changed front brakes, rotors, and calipers this past weekend. Sway bar bushings need a little attention while I'm in there.

I'm hoping to use air cylinder(s) to shift the Dana transfer case and avoid having a t-case a shifter sticking through the floor. I have one on my dump truck to engage the Chelsae PTO. Should work on the same principle. (I hope) I will take pics when I get it all mounted up.

Fuel tank is back on, and new lines from the engine to the tank. 3/8" supply, and 5/16" return. All is hooked up except for the return line. I'm not familiar with the Cummins engines or the rotary pump, and I don't see where it goes. I didn't pull the engine from the donor truck, so I didn't get the chance to look things over. HELP,,,, :argh:

I got back to the conversion today. I have the transfer case mounted,,,,,, again. It hung too low, and the driveshaft angle was way off, so I had to add a body lift, and mount the crossmember on top of the frame. Should make things much easier this way.
https://www.dieselbombers.com/attach...1&d=1274579484

I was able to get the front clip back on and bolted up, the radiator mounted, and the fans test fitted. With the engine sitting a couple inches from the firewall, I wasn't able to use the stock Cummins fan. I bought two 12" pushers to go in the grille. This, along with the oversize radiator should keep it cool. Not sure what it is out of, but they had to modify the bottom of the core support to hold it in place
https://www.dieselbombers.com/attach...1&d=1274579806

For anyone that has done the Ford conversion, did you use the Ford solenoid, or just take the wiring straight to the Cummins starter? I had planned on using the Ford solenoid, but changing it to the drivers fender. Good idea or bad?

Hopefully, I will get to hear it run in the next week or so. It's all bolted up and fueled up. Hopefully, the wiring won't take long. I did noticed in the pics, that it sat around long enough that the engine is dusty.
https://www.dieselbombers.com/attach...1&d=1274579935

Planning on getting a few more things done tomorrow.

Very nice Mark.


Good call on the Dowel Pin.

I got most of my wiring taken care of today. I used the Cummins alternator, and a Ford electronic voltage regulator, and wired it according to Ford/Cummins instructions. I mounted the Ford solenoid on the drivers fender to make the starter wire a bit shorter.

QUESTION: How do I wire in the fuel shutoff solenoid? I assume it needs 12v. to open and allow the fuel to the pump, and cut the power and the engine shuts down?? Do I need to add a relay to it? The wire I took off it was maybe a single 14 or 16 ga, so it can't require much power. I'm planning on using the wire that originally ran to the coil to power it. I've worked on gas engines all my life, but my knowlege of the Cummins engines is really limited. I would appreciate any help I can get.

THANKS,,,,,,

:rolleyes2: I am THE BIGGEST Cummins in a Ford Swap Hater but hey I gotta hand it to you It Looks good :tu:

Still needing info on how to wire in the fuel shutoff solenoid on the 1st. gen Cummins.

I appreciate any help I can get.

your fuel shutoff is on top of the bottom half of the case on the right hand side its a little circular shapped thing with 2 prongs on it. i ran a relay to mine for good measure but its not a must. a 12v keyed power source to one of those prongs should do the trick for you. just make sure it stays on the whole time the truck is on and it looses power when you shut they key off

I appreciate you help. This is my first go at a diesel engine, and I'm still learning. Hope to fire it up by the weekend.

Thanks again!!

Looks great, I am hoping to do the same swap in the near future. I got a buddy that has a 12valve in a 95 ford and his brother has one in a 01 ford. The best of both worlds.

This was a GREAT weekend for working on the truck. I finished ALL the wiring, finally. I wired the fuel shutoff with a relay. I wasn't sure of the power requirement, so I used 12 ga. wire, a 40 amp relay, but only a 20 amp fuse on the battery side of the relay. I bought a roll of 2 ga. battery cable and soldered ends to make the cables fit as neat as possible. The truck had already been converted to dual batteries, so that was one thing I didn't need to do. I used radiator hoses and exhaust pipe and made a crossover for the lower radiator hose. Not pretty,, but it works. I replaced all the fuel lines, so I pumped the lever on the lift pump and I was ready to give it a try.

IT SOUNDS GREAT!! :jump: One HELL of a good feeling, hearing it fire up for the first time. I expected a little harder time getting it started since the engine sat for 6 months or so, but it started up in a couple cranks. Good oil pressure,, and lots of smoke. Hope to drop of the driveshafts off at the shop this week.

I appreciate everyone's help.

Well,, most of the truck is done. I took it for a drive around the farm on Saturday. IT FELT GREAT!! :jump: Starts easy,, sounds great. Plenty of power. I left the bed off while I'm building a gooseneck hitch, so I didn't take it out on the highway (no tail lights). Should be able to get it on the road by the weekend. Only problem I see so far, is the 4.10 gears. Taking off in second is way too easy, and taking off in 3rd. takes little effort either. I hope to be changing the TTB to a solid axle soon. I should have done that before I even got started on the swap. I need to get it out on the road and check my speeds to see what gears I need to go to. It should be turning 2400 RPM at 70 MPH as it is now.

Had to try it with no exhaust. My muffler is suppose to be here by Friday,, Synergy Bullet, and the rest is Magnaflow 4", except for the downpipe. Factory 3" and a 3" - 4" adapter welded on. Using bandclamps on all joints. Hope to change to a 4" downpipe soon,, if space permits.

I shortened the rear driveshaft myself, and it turned out great. I had a Spicer shop in Charleston, WV shorten my jackshaft (needed a 1410 yoke), and lengthen my front driveshaft. Great price, but the weld on the jackshaft left a lot to be desired. Work on both shafts with 4 new Spicer joints was only $250.

I have 2 12' electric fans in the grille as pushers, and wired through a relay, and have a Napa FS 125 fan switch to turn them on at 205 degrees. I also used a relay to power the fuel solenoid. I took alot of extra time to clean,, paint,, and make things look like they are suppose to be there. I'm really pleased with the way it looks when I pop the hood. I have almost 5 months in the swap, and probably 1 month actual work involved. I have a receipt on every part I used, so I will get a grand total soon to see how it all went. I'm guessing around $3000 total.

Paint for the truck is next. I will be posting some pics soon. Thanks for everyones help.

Congrats, I can't wait to see the pictures of the finished project.

Very nice,love the way you painted everything black instead of red block,silver alt and pumps ect.So the front axle hasent been painted because you are taking that out next?By the looks of what you can do you should do conversions as a side job,people will be in line for one.

Thanks for the good words. I do alot of work on cars/trucks, but the cummins is a new one for me. I'm learning fast. I restored a 1968 VW Beetle, a 1986 Pete 359 , and am working on a Pro Street 1953 Chevy 2 dr. (tubbed, 9" rear, 4 link, QA 1 coilovers, Mustang front) Money Pit.

I hadn't painted the front axle when the pic was taken, but it is now. I'm looking for a Dana 60 for the front, but need the truck on the road now. I will drive it a little while to see how it is doing before I tear the front end out. I need to get a few miles on it and see what gears I need to install.

I ordered a custom speedo cable today, so it should be here by next Friday. It will hook from the Ford cruise control to the Dana 24 t-case. Hoping it will be fairly accurate that way. We'll see.

Gooseneck hitch is finshed and bolted up, and the bed will go back on tomorrow,,, just as soon as I finish the exhaust. Getting down to the nitty gritty. I should get a little highway time in this weekend.

Paint comes real soon,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Nice job Mark. I'm doing a 12v to superduty right now, was wondering what voltage reg. you used for the dodge alt.

I purchased a booklet from FordCummins before I started the swap,, not much detail, but the info on the alternator was worth the price. I can send a copy of that page if it will help you. Just send me an email. I think my email is listed on here somewhere. Really easy to wire up.

The voltage regulator I used was for a 1984 Ford. I purchased it from Advance Auto. It is part# BWD R400Z This is an electronic regulator. Suppose to be much better than the older style.

Let me know if I can help ya out.

I've got the ford cummins book, but superduty's don't have an external regulator so I need to buy one, just wondering which one to get since there's a lot of different ones at orielly and napa, thanks Whoops, just finished your thread, got the part number, thanks!

Don't want to speek out of turn here, but you will need 12-volts, when you turn the key to start , when you relese to the run position the other side should carry 7-volts to keep the solonoid in the on position till you turn the switch off.

I just use the starter relay on the right fenderwell, 12ga wire to starter solonoid and battery hot cable to starter, then a battery hot to the constant hot side of the solonoid

I just took my Fummins for it's first trip on the highway with a Cummins, and I was very surprised. I was hoping to have the power of my 460, but better fuel economy. I figured the 4.10:1 gears would be too low to drive it, but it was one hell of a ride. 1st and 2nd gear in the Getrag are really low, but from 3rd to OD, it really accelerated quickly. I ran it up to 60-65 MPH, and it had plenty of throttle left. The guy I got it from told me he "put in larger injectors, advanced the timing, and turned up the pump". Not knowing much about a Cummins, I wasn't sure what the effects would be, but I was in total shock by the power of this Cummins. The 460 I took out of it could not even compare to the ride I just took.

Not real thrilled by the Dana 24 divorced transfer case, but it will do for now. Kinda' hard to get in and out of 4 wheel drive. My driveway is really steep, and I have to have 4 wheel drive year round.

I'm kinda' on a cloud right now. :jump:

Well,, I have about 250 miles on the Fummins, and have had very few issues. I can't call it done, cause there is always something else I want to do to it.
https://www.dieselbombers.com/attach...1&d=1279136327
https://www.dieselbombers.com/attach...1&d=1279136327
The alternator has worked on and off, so it now has a 100 amp, one wire Delco alternator. Took about an hour to mount up, and is pretty much foolproof. Changed the pulleys, and built a mount. Real simple.

The ride height with the Cummins vs. the 460 Ford didn't change much, but the ride sure did, so new front bushings and more springs are in store real soon.

I can usually get 140 - 150 miles per tankful with the 460, and so far, I have 150 miles on the fill-up, and I still have half a tank left, and a big part of a day was spent driving around on a job,,, a couple hours of driving, and only 2 or 3 miles on the odometer. Kills my MPG, but I will be checking several tanks of fuel. Universal Speedometer Services in CA. made my speedometer cable. 5/8" X 18 on the top, to mount on my Ford cruise control, and 7/8 X 18 on the bottom to screw on the Dana transfer case. I had it 5 days from the day I called them and only cost $95 shipped.

I spent several hours heating and bending shifters, trying to get a good feel on them, and added a
couple matching shift knobs. LOTS of interior work to do yet.
https://www.dieselbombers.com/attach...1&d=1279136957


Next I will be taking a day or so to work on the AC. I bought a v-belt pulley from Autoworldmt.com and will be mounting my Ford compressor over top of the IP. Looks easy.

Not thrilled with the Dana 24 divorced setup, but it is gonna do for now. Looking at my options. Lots of bugs to work out on the truck, but very few were brought on with the swap. It's just an old truck,,, always something to do.

Never know,,, maybe a 5.9 would fit in my 53 Chevy 2 Dr,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Nice job on the install. Did you take any pictures of your engine mounts? How much clearance do you have at the front of the engine? Are you running electric cooling fans?

Thanks for the good word. YEP,, I have pics of my engine mounts, and I can probably give you the dimensions and angles too. Mine is similiar to the factory Dodge mounts on a 1st. gen. I use my truck in my business, so I guess I'm waiting to see how the rubber mounts hold up once I get 10 ton or so behind it. I think the ones that FordCummins uses that bolt on TOP of the frame might be stronger. Time will tell. Might weld up a set to have ready just in case. I will get the info and pics together on them for ya in the next couple days.

As for clearance at the front of the engine, I will assume you mean between the fan hub and the radiator? I moved mine a little closer to the radiator to have more room at the firewall. THEN,, I added a body lift, and that kinda' defeated the whole purpose of more room at the firewall. Distance from the end of the fan hub to the radiator is 1 3/4". By using the body lift, I could have set it back further and used the stock fan, but this should give me a few more horsepower.

I am using two 12" electric fans in the grille as pushers. I have a Echlin FS125 fan switch in the thermostat housing to turn the fans on at 210 degrees, though after 300 miles or so, and record high temps here in WV, the fans have not been needed yet. My factory Ford temp gauge works, and it hasn't gone much over half way on the gauge. Not sure how this translates to actual temp in degrees, but it is running cooler than the big block 460 I had in it. The 5 core radiator is a plus too.

Easy for me to look back now and say "I wish I had done this or that different". Let me know if I can be of any help.

I just ran my first tank of fuel through the Fummins. It was a combination of highway, city, and alot of short trips working on it/test driving/working on it. I got 15 MPG and was really pleased with it, but I know it will do much better. Still not bad for a Crew Cab 4X4 with 410 gears.

I should have done this sooner.

2nd. tank of fuel ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, 17.35 MPG Running great. I think I'm ready to put 10 ton on the hitch and see what it will really do. The 4.10 gears are working out good too,,,,, still runs 70 MPH on the Interstate with lots of throttle left, and 17 MPG,,, Thought about a gear change, but I don't want to give up the power for a couple more miles to the gallon. Especially, when I'm used to getting 7.9 MPG with the gas engine.

I wonder if I can get a 5.9 in my 68 Beetle? :humm: