|
kubota S10 in Maryland
Finally got started working on my project today. No truck yet, still looking for a single cab 4.3 manual S10, 96 or older. I have found one but the truck is rough and the individual does not seem to be in a hurry to sell. I may purchase it as a parts truck and use one of the nicer 4 cylinder trucks for the body.
I got the V2203 started today. I had to find some short battery cables as the jumper cables had to much loss to get it started. After starting I went ahead and replaced the governor spring, using one from a spring kit I got here I thought I would take some pics to help show where the and how the spring is connected, as i had a hard time finding the info myself. Then I realized why, trying to take pictures and complete a task doubles the amount of effort. So I managed to miss a couple of steps in the picture taking process I also got a good start on making an exhaust manifold flange for the turbo adapter Jason https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...33c682ded7.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...d22d211c26.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...c5ad805347.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...70053d14ce.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...dbb45ca7a5.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...7d9c3b849c.jpg |
Welcome to the forum. your photos are good. The spring looks like it will get the job done. Are you going to check the max rpm before you install the engine?
On finding a truck. Just my opinion; but have patience; I go with the garbage in garbage out theory. If you are going to spend the time and money to do a conversion get the best recipient vehicle you can. Don't forget you can sell the good running gasser from your recipient if it is a nice one. For example I spent 6 months putting a benz diesel in a $100 jeep, That jeep is sitting in the corner. It runs great and drives like a worn out POS $100 jeep. The Kubota jeep started out as a nice daily driver, and is still nice to drive; so it gets driven. Have fun with your conversion, take lots of pictures |
I thought about going this route before I got the Dodge. Maybe after I get it dialed in I will think about it agaun.
Until then I will watch and learn from your build. :pca1: |
Hey Jason, great to see your build thread here. Lots of great info here. It was nice talking with you the other day. I am a little behind but parts will be in the mail soon.
Ken SPMachining |
I clocked the turbo tonight and bolted down the wastegate. I was not able to get the feed and drain perfectly straight up down due to interferance with the drain boss and one of the housing bolts. the center section is rotated about 20 degrees. Will this cause any issues? Looks like Saturday I'll be going up to pickup a truck. We will see when we get home if it is just a parts truck, it had alot of work done to it in the paste year.
Jason |
Hey Jason welcome to the club! Do yourself a favor and bump the injection timing now before you install the motor. Depending on what spec you're motor is it may only be 5 deg. btdc. I just did mine and now it's 11 deg. and man what a positive difference. It was stock at 6.5 and ran better than a lot of the other swaps that are at 5. I just wish I had done it sooner, taking all the shims out yields 11deg.
|
Just pull all the shims? Is there a way to double check the timing, like degreeing a cam? I thought there was a jeep that melted down their first motor due no shims on the pump? I had hoped to leave it all stock (except the governor) and sneak up on max fuel while watching the EGTs.https://www.dieselbombers.com/images/smilies/scare3.gif
It was asked if I planned to check the RPM before installing the motor. Probably not as I don't have a tach to check it with. I did start it up and run it and it would rev far past what it would before and enough to make me uncomfortable. Jason |
Sounds like you checked your rpm to me.
|
You can check the timing, it's a "spill" method from the delivery valve while looking at the marks on the flywheel against a mark on the flywheel cover. I checked mine before I started and it matched the info on the valve cover. The shims are different thicknesses and are identified by holes in the shim. I think the melt down was caused by other issues.
|
I'm not familiar with the procedure but here is my best guess. crack the #1 cylinder roll the motor over until the #1 line just starts to squirt fuel and observe timing marks on the flywheel? how do you release the compression to roll the motor over? remove the glow plugs? If so any thing to watch out for when removing the glow plugs?
I went and got the S10 4.3 manual today, it is defiantly a parts car, no ac, no cruise. Does anybody know what year S10 automatics have the bracket for the clutch already? I noticed the 98+ ones seem to do but don't know about 94-97 and the 82-93, Jason |
You take the #1 injection line off and when the fuel starts to spill from the delivery valve see the timing marks. Crank over by hand. Just an FYI they did have a factory higher timing on motors used in gensets, 9 deg btdc, the added timing is for higher rpm's. They were governed to 2200 rpm. So you see that they set timing higher for more rpm like we are doing.
|
I did the pump timing today, at the cost of one valve cover bolt and a intake manifold gasket. I've ordered the gasket, can't find the bolt so i may have to use a standard bolt and make a spacer for it.
I had a hard time with the spill over as when you come by you get a quick squirt and its hard to tell where the timing marks were in that split second. So I disassembled the #1 valve and seat so I could see it just bubble over. It looks to be about 6 degrees BTDC but it was still an approximation. I pulled the larger of the 2 shims and it appears to be 9-10 degrees BTDC. I had to remove the valve cover and the little spring gizmo that pushes the rack forward to remove the pump. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...5002711745.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...1c3a294d15.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...bc353673d0.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...54de4e4174.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...19f112a5bd.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...578235094d.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...90da3874c2.jpg |
Nice! Looks like you removed a 3deg shim and left a 2deg shim in, so 9deg btdc is where you're at. Ya that timing check is a little subjective.
|
I said I had to remove the valve cover and rack return spring, what I failed to mention is I also had to remove the intake manifold. Just so that others can take note as to what gaskets may be needed. The only gasket that I need to replace is the intake manifold gasket.
Jason |
Got the adapter mounted to the back of the engine. It is an SPmachining AKA 68yellowGTO dapter.
Pulled the radiator shroud fan, alternator, and drive shaft from the donor truck. The driveshaft is a aluminum/composite one, I was surprised to see GM did this. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...d3a9183096.jpg |
I've got the parts truck striped and ready to be used for mock up. Learned that the skid steer is not the best alternative to an engine hoist but gets the job done. I busted the shift tower on the way out.
I got the flywheel and starter installed. The pinion only engages about half the ring gear on the flywheel. Apparently this is common with mini starters as they have about half the movement in the bendix as the oem starters. It turns over just fine makes no noise and has no signs of odd wear. not sure if i will go with it or attempt to make another nose plate that pushes the ring gear closer. It is currently .270 away from the ring gear, and the instructions state the minimum distance is .065. So there is room to move it forward and catch more of the ring gear. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...f28571cb29.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...ee817b84db.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...e23a86dfaa.jpg |
Looking good. I forgot to send you the torque specs for the adapter.
Adapter Plate to block should be 45ft lbs. Crank adapter to crank at 90ft lbs. This is hard to measure because of the Allen head bolts. Bellhousing to Adapter Plate should be 30ft lbs. I suggest getting a stud kit for the starter so you won't be repeatedly using the threaded holes when replacing the starter. Please use loctite on all bolts. Also make sure everything is very clean and not painted. On mounting surfaces. Even a small piece of debris between the crank adapter and crank can throw the flywheel run out off quite a bit. When testing I found .013 run out on the face and had to disasemble and found a little bit of greasy dirt in between the crank adapter and crank shaft. The starter engagment is common and exactly as found on a standard small block Chevy. It was a concern or mine when I desgned it. I decided to leave the locations as they were in the adapter plate because of I moved them rearward more the 153 tooth starter would overextend. Good luck and happy Thanksgiving. Project is looking great |
Instead of making a whole new mounting plate for the starter look into just counterboring the original plate so the starter fits in farther.
|
I have thought about that but that will reduce the thickness of the aluminum between the 2 little screws and the starter motor. I may just take some measurements and run this the way it is, and if it gives me any trouble then make a new one. I looked for studs and could only find one source for starter studs that have the appropriate knurled section for locating the starter. An he is currently out of stock.
|
Started working on the hydroboost setup today, had to extend the brake pedal rod. The outer diameter of the s10 master cylinder is to large to fit the hydroboost unit, so now it is time to figure out what master cylinder fits.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...06c3c3bc07.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...207ae65308.jpg |
Mocked up the hydroboost today.
I also started on the turbo adapter and ran into a slight problem. the uppipe flange studs are tight against the uppipe leaving no room to turn a nut. What have others done for the ko3? I could notch the uppipe for clearance but this will disrupt the flow going into the turbo. Never mind the adapter being a little bit of off kilter, its just tacked and ill true up the uppipe on the mill before final welding. And boy, it doesn't take long to turn a little one car garage into a mess. Jason https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...5852b6d924.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...2188e4daf4.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...c2cecdd27a.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...67261668fe.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...466129d2d7.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...538fabf60c.jpg |
I've always used a pipe that has the same ID as the manifold and that leaves plenty of room for the nut. Too large ID pipe could reduce velocity to the turbo.
|
The pipe I used was the same ID as the largest portion of the exhaust manifold. This made the ID of the pipe bigger than the ID of the turbo. That and I was trying to use the heaviest walled pipe I could. So this evening I made 6 little pie cuts and gradually reduced the inner diameter of the pipe to match the turbo. it looks like nuts will clear but i currently do not have any to try.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...1d4df02a44.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...8f949a34ab.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...69bdae773b.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...51d01a29e2.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...dd2fb606a5.jpg |
Had some fun with my origami oil pan tonight. got most of it welded up before i ran out of argon.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...d1ab355849.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...15aee22ea2.jpg |
Thank you for the pictures it reminded me. Over the thanksgiving holiday I welded up a pan and the guys in my shop didn't mark the front of the pan flange. Please double check the flange as it is not symetric. Very sorry for this confusion.
|
I had planned on waiting till i get the old pan off before attaching the pan to make sure i get the sump in the rear.
Jason Robb |
Okay, that is good. Sorry for the inconvience. How did it all bend and fit?
|
The bend fit was great, easy to bend, and a couple needed a little persuasion with a hammer but not a whole lot. The front lip that gets welded to the flange will have to be trimmed just a little bit but I think that is due to me putting to much radius in the bends. I bent them by hand and unsupported, if I would have put it in the brake or clamped a piece of metal at the bend i could have reduced the radius.
Jason |
Yea I generally bend over the edge of my work bench and then lightly persuade with a mallet
|
Been out of town for a week, so didn't get much done. Extended the oil sump today. Its ugly but holds a vacuum. Started on the turbo drain in the pan but couldn't get it seal, couldn't weld the top withe the flange already welded on. I cut it off and will weld a new one on but at 90 degrees instead of 45 so I an get the tig torch in there.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...cd32280fcb.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...e5e2e635e3.jpg |
Well got the oil pan finished with turbo drain come to find out i had a hairline crack above the drain tube from my first failed attempt. Once I figured this out things went smoothly. I got the pan mounted. The dipstick is installed, didn't have to drill the block there was a rubber plug in an all ready existing hole. I got the oil feed line for the turbo installed. I also turned the oil filter adapter 90 degrees for motor mount clearance. I have giving up on finding a nice S10 and decided to just recondition the one I have so I added AC box.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...07977a0c2b.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...d911a1adde.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...c24bbd81ab.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...54f29211af.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...df461826be.jpg |
lots of good progress. When I did my Kubota dipstick. The tube pressed into the block all the way to the bead in the tube.
|
I'll have to tap on it some more, it appeared to stop moving, any ideas on how to coax it the rest of the way?
Jason |
Does anybody have a list of compatible oil filters? I would like to find one that doesn't hang down as low.
|
1 Attachment(s)
did you check the size of the hole before you tried to put the tube in? I don't remember what size I drilled hole. To get the tube all the way in. you might have to make some sort of set with a shoulder , so the tube does not collapse when you drive it in.
For the oil filter I am using a Wix 51602, same size boss as Carrier. The Carrier uses a large boss, There are at least 3 filters sizes for that style. Then you can get a small Ford V8 style boss adapter from Kubota? and use any of the ford style filters. You can also pull the angle adapter off and then use either style filter adapter and run perpendicular ( this is what I did) There are quite a few options for the oil filter. the pic is pre intercooler over a year ago. |
There was about 8 thousandth difference between the size of the hole and the diameter of the dipstick tube I was able to tap it the rest of the way in by sliding a 13mm deepwell socket over the tube.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...0a5fddf887.jpg |
worked on pulleys this weekend, got the crank and waterpump pulleys mounted but will have to make the waterpump adapter .200 thicker to get everything to line up perfectly.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...46a0dc08da.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...c9b3934d61.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...cf0dc28a17.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...f6ceaae19f.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...f33087c307.jpg |
Been out of town for the holidays. got back and decided to redo the turbo drain.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...96dab41dfb.jpg |
Been working on the serpentine, that is a much bigger job than I anticipated. I used 8mm all thread and extremely thick walled tubing for my spacers. I have access to a lathe but not in my shed, so I used a pipe cutter to get clean and precise spacers. Almost done, still need to adjust the water pump pulley adapter, cut hole for the shutdown solenoid and fuel screw access.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...3eab53a0b1.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...08db208414.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...61b8c3ccee.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...07f92ac2f3.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...09194ee322.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...65ddea941c.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...f0a30cffbb.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...d9dc96796e.jpg |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:53 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands
