I'm available fri, sat, sun.

Aaron and Dan, thanks for a good and very informational afternoon. I wish I had the funds to go out right now and get one of those Kubota motors. What you had in your pickup was impressive. I've always heard that the small diesel motors were gutless, but yours proves otherwise, and still gets good fuel mileage.

It's dark here now or I'd go out and check measurements in the Datsun motor compartment.

Here's that gear ratio calculator. Just change the word dot to the actual item. With the calculator you can compare two different possibilities side by side.

http://www.grimmjeeper(dot)com/gears.html

Thanks
Don

Thanks for the complements Don, I enjoyed meeting up with you guys!

Thanks for coming out today guys, and thanks Dan for letting me take your truck for a spin. I hooked the gauges up and tried playing with the tach some more. It was a lot more accurate then when I was testing on the bench, but the gauge still reads different from laser tach I was using. I am going to play with it more tomorrow, I ran out of daylight today.

Hey Dan, I've been spending a bit of time thinking about how you set up your low oil pressure shut-off.

The SD22 I have has the injection pump control mechanism, but not the control module. Using what I found online I've been able to wire up the IP control motor and get the diesel to run, but it won't stop at the prescribed locations to operate the overinject (start, kind of like the choke on a carb), run, or stop functions.

Just the other day I got the motor running briefly so I know I can manually operate the IP without the IP control motor. Operating the IP manually means I won't be able to shut the motor off automatically in a low oil pressure situation, but I can wire in an obnoxious buzzer/screamer. I just need details, part numbers, etc for what you did so I can set it up.

Thanks,
Don

Any updates on the truck? As for the low oil pressure switch I wired into the fuel solenoid, it is the oil light switch from a 72 Vega. It not only has a switch for a light but also a switch that connected to the fuel pump. So if the oil pressure drops, the fuel cuts off. I wired it to the ground circuit on the fuel solenoid. This saved my motor, the pressure sender failed and lost all the oil, dodged a bullet!

I'm making good progress. Got the motor back in on Monday. I want all the factory gauges to work so I am reusing the OEM oil pressure sensor and water temp sensors and got those retrofitted. Also added a oil pressure safety switch like you did. I'm going to try and reuse part of the original wire harness too, hopefully it works after I trim out the excess wires. The only thing that should be going through the computer now is the speedo sensor.
http://s102.photobucket.com/user/flyinmonkeys32/media/20150202_185842_zpsc67d9ad0.jpg.htmlhttp://s102.photobucket.com/user/flyinmonkeys32/media/20150202_185836_zps75fac7ea.jpg.html
I dropped the tank on Tuesday and removed the in-tank pump. Got the tank mounted back in and routed the supply and return lines and the fuel filters. They are bigger then I thought they would be... Im hoping its not too much for the lift pump to pull through them.
http://s102.photobucket.com/user/flyinmonkeys32/media/20150206_152338_zpsda1ee16e.jpg.html

Also got the throttle made up today. It needs some cleaning up but seems to work pretty good. I also swapped out the governor spring before I put the motor back in, its quite a bit stiffer... hopefully my foot doesn't get tired haha. I made the arm off the little jack shaft set up adjustable so when I get it running I can set the idle and travel limits and still get full pedal travel.
http://s102.photobucket.com/user/flyinmonkeys32/media/20150206_121546_zps0179c7fe.jpg.htmlhttp://s102.photobucket.com/user/flyinmonkeys32/media/20150206_150022_zps03508059.jpg.html

Getting pretty close to having it running. Still have to mount the intercooler, and plumb all the coolant and intake lines and make the exhaust. Hoping to have it running in the next few weeks tho

Thanks Dan for that info.

Good progress Aaron! Looking forward to more info as you continue your progress, especially first start.

Don

Nice progress! I like the throttle set-up. As for your concern about the lift pump, I don't think it will be a problem. It was designed to pull fuel from the tank over 20ft away and 4ft below.

yeah the throttle turned out good... except for the fact I can't get full throttle out of it. there is too much flex in the firewall and cable I think. I want to get it running first to see what rpm range its working in. making good progress tho. I got the intercooler mounted and the heater lines ran. should be getting some parts in the next few days to plumb up the intake, exhaust and coolant. Should have her running pretty soon if I can figure out the wiring

Got a quick question for you Rangmar... how did you wire up the NPR alternator? I found this diagram online, is this right?
http://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/...40-jpg.949731/

Also curious if it is internally regulated?

I wired ign and s to a switched 12v. Charged great 13.4-14v

On your throttle did you eliminate the spring on the accelerator pedal?

excellent I'll see if I can get the alternator to work.

I did remove that spring. I remembered you mentioning that when I was up at your place. I think I just made the pulley too small. And I cant get the ratio right to overcome the larger governor spring I put it

finally got her running last week. sounds great but I have been battling the idle. I swapped the governor spring before i put the motor in the truck, and swapped that one out this morning but am still having the same issue. I cant get the dang thing to idle down. When I turn down the hard stop idle screw it gets a lot of play in the throttle like the spring is going limp for lack of a better term. and it just kind of surges between about 500rpm and 1500rpm.

Could this be as simple as just putting in a shorter spring to try and keep that tension on there? or is there possibly another issue going on?

I have sort of the same issue. I also think my modified spring may be a tiny bit too long. mine does not sound quite as bad as yours. I can get it to idle down ok if I slow down from cruise in gear. If I just put it in Neutral and coast, it won't idle down well, and seems to get hung about 11-1200. only rarely does it surge.
I tried to measure my spring out to 2" at the bearing surfaces.
post up what you find out if you try a shorter spring
are you driving yet?

I had a post all wrote up but i guess it didnt post. I found this thread https://www.dieselbombers.com/diesel...-88-s10-4.html and saw FTE's post about the spring lenght. I put the stock one back in and it idles fine but will only hit about 2000rpm now and is much slower to get there. Its strange because I thought the springs I got were the same length as the stock one (2") I will have to take it back out again and see if I can find one thats the same length but stronger

I'm thinking that if you go a different length it should be a bit longer than shorter. The reason I think is the stock one is partially stretched at idle, so with a stiffer one at idle not much starching going on. Also the stock spring has a straight part extending past the coil before the hook, the one you used doesn't have any straight part between the coil and hook. I wonder if it is binding up causing the inconsistency. I had one of those springs in my assortment to try and passed for a different one, only I can't find out what I used without taking it out.

Had an awesome experience yesterday... it died about 5 miles from home and now I cant get it to start. I put about 40 miles on it before this happened. No signs of anything, it just shut off off doing about 55.

My suspicion is that I picked some air up through the draw tube from the tank being too low but now I cant get it to start or really even to sputter. it will occasionally get one cylinder to fire as I finally get some smoke but thats about it.

it primes all the way to the injector pump. I bleed all the lines at the injectors numerous times but still get the same result... nada. It seems like there is plenty of fuel coming out of the injector lines but I seldom even get a puff. any suggestions?

did you check your E-shutdown solenoid???. I ended up using a Carrier fuel filter assy, and the return goes to the filter head

Yeah, that's the first thing I checked. It's working perfect. I am so baffled since it worked great for the week or so I had it running, then just all of a sudden it stopped running and now I cant get anything out of it. I've bled the lines coming out of the IP and then right at the injectors. still cant get anything out of it... and now the starter is getting angry at me for cranking so much.

just cranking... how much fuel should be coming out of the lines at the injectors and what kind of pressure should there be?

Do you still have spring pressure at the manual shutoff lever? It does not sound so much like an air problem. As a shutdown problem

Yeah it feels like they still spring pressure there. I took the e shutoff bolts of and can feel it push against the manual shutoff as well. They feel like they're working... I get fuel at the injectors so that should be ok. Any way it's just not spinning fast enough to pop of the injectors?

Well I'm complete baffled. New battery, new starter... still nothing. I get a little smoke now but not much. Engine turns over at about 180rpm not sure if that's fast enough but it was only at 100rpm with the old starter.

I checked the fuel shut off rod on the injection pump itself and it is free and the springs open. And from what I can see everything looks good inside there.

I pulled all the glow plugs out and turned it over and am getting decent spray out of all of them. I even tried a shot of ether and get absolutely nothing. Not sure if this is just a lack of rpm and air in the system still, but I had priming issues when I first started it up but it at least sputtered and hit on more then one cylinder then.

I guess the next step is to pull the valve cover and see if the valves are actually moving. Its just so odd, because it ran fine and then just instantly shut off and wont start now

now I'm leaning towards bad compression... either valve train or bad rings... most likely rings. I can see the front valve working through my oil fill hole. I can turn the engine over with a ratchet. Its not easy to turn over but doesn't take a ton of effort either and there are parts that feel like it has more compression then others. I also get smoke through the injection pump when I have the mechanical shut off cover off. It doesnt look like it has bad blow by though. there is nothing really coming out of the valve cover breather

Ran a compression test today.
#1 = 140 psi
#2 = 20 psi
#3 = 40 psi
#4 = 450 psi

Which explains why I'm getting one to fire and none of the others to fire. I'm going to pull the valve cover just to rule those out. Then I guess its time to pull her apart and see what the damage is. I'm crossing my fingers its just a head gasket.

I would say try some sort of top end lubricant like marvel mystery oil or pb blaster, but since it was running and then quit, maybe not. one of my engines had almost no compression when I got it, I guess because it had been sitting for a long long time. I kept putting marvel oil and pb blaster in thru the intake valves and after about a week it started up and runs good, at least on the bench.
it sort of sounds like you have a broken ring or 2 two . maybe you will get lucky.
The other way to look at it is if you rebuild it , you will know what you have, and it will no longer be a mystery like both of my engines

good luck

Dang, looks like you had an air lock in the coolant and got it hot.

Deja vu

Well, FTE was right one the money with the overheating. I pulled the head yesterday and cylinders 1, 2 and 3 are all toast. Turns out there were some blocked water passages around cylinders 2 and 3. They are filled will some nasty stuff. Its brownish black and gritty. Im guessing its some sort of stop leak but I'm still going to get the block tested for a crack. If I remember, Ill take some pics tomorrow.

Ive only found +.5mm (.020in) oversize kit for these so hopefully thats enough (barring no crack). Pretty sad since it was running so good

I've got a quick question, and at this moment I can't remember if I've already read the answer. But, do these motors have sleeved cylinders? It seems I've read that somewhere,but it may be another motor I was reading about. I've been reading/researching about several different small diesel motors.

Don

wow its been a while since I have been on here. Not sure if you can sleeve these or not. They aren't sleeved tho and I forgot to ask my machinist today if its possible or cost prohibitive to sleeve them.

Thought I might give an update while I'm at it. Heres a pic of the cylinders after she melted down. Im not sure if the block is salvageable yet, but from what I have found you can only go .5mm or .020in over on these motors. I ended up getting a .5mm kit from Kumar Bros. which includes new pistons, rings, wrist pins, rod bearings, main bearings, and a complete gasket kit. Looked like pretty quality stuff, but only time will tell.
http://s102.photobucket.com/user/flyinmonkeys32/media/20150322_175307_zpshxhpwz3a.jpg.html
I ended up getting a different motor to try and use and found water in the oil... so I sent that one to the machine shop and so far so good, so in the next week or two I should hopefully have the motor back.

Here's a few pics of the dis-assembly in case anyone is curious whats on the inside of these things. You can see how nasty the water passages were. They are amazingly simple when you dive into them.
http://s102.photobucket.com/user/flyinmonkeys32/media/20150403_193336_zps2vljysff.jpg.htmlhttp://s102.photobucket.com/user/flyinmonkeys32/media/20150403_193321_zpsz1u1gskr.jpg.htmlhttp://s102.photobucket.com/user/flyinmonkeys32/media/20150403_193241_zpsxlbgtioz.jpg.htmlhttp://s102.photobucket.com/user/flyinmonkeys32/media/20150403_173602_zpszdi3rnkw.jpg.html