Originally Posted by CSW1982 (Post 1051292)

New here. Don't care if flamed or not. while I'm sure your JB Weld solution to the oil sender will not leak, I'm not entirely sure the engine will like any trash that might break loose. My solution was to disassemble the factory MB oil sender. Find a matching hex head nut to protect the thread while doing this work, it should be M12x1.5, we found one in the MB pile,o,parts. The first step involves a die grinder and bench grinder to remove the rolled edge. After that step systematically destroy everything but the threads and the hex cap portion via bench grinder. Wire brush, clean for next step. Drill a 11/32 pilot for a 1/8 npt tap making sure to check for depth as you go so as not to get into the shoulder and threaded area. You will want to keep withing the hex cap area. Trim off 40% of the bottom of a 1/8 npt tap and put a slight taper on it. An unmodified tap will bottom out before cutting the correct threads for a 1/8 npt fitting Wire brush said tap and clean. Tap, checking as you go for depth and fit. Wala you saved $23 plus shipping and spent $3 on a fitting and $10 for a tap, however you didn't have to order off of mercedes4x4.com's unsecured website or deal with trying to get ahold of him on the phone or email him. Just my 2 cents.

Originally Posted by CSW1982 (Post 1051292)

New here. Don't care if flamed or not. while I'm sure your JB Weld solution to the oil sender will not leak, I'm not entirely sure the engine will like any trash that might break loose. My solution was to disassemble the factory MB oil sender. Find a matching hex head nut to protect the thread while doing this work, it should be M12x1.5, we found one in the MB pile,o,parts. The first step involves a die grinder and bench grinder to remove the rolled edge. After that step systematically destroy everything but the threads and the hex cap portion via bench grinder. Wire brush, clean for next step. Drill a 11/32 pilot for a 1/8 npt tap making sure to check for depth as you go so as not to get into the shoulder and threaded area. You will want to keep withing the hex cap area. Trim off 40% of the bottom of a 1/8 npt tap and put a slight taper on it. An unmodified tap will bottom out before cutting the correct threads for a 1/8 npt fitting Wire brush said tap and clean. Tap, checking as you go for depth and fit. Wala you saved $23 plus shipping and spent $3 on a fitting and $10 for a tap, however you didn't have to order off of mercedes4x4.com's unsecured website or deal with trying to get ahold of him on the phone or email him. Just my 2 cents.

Originally Posted by Markdiesel (Post 1053185)

I'll still need to make the cam sensor mod though. Am I correct?

Originally Posted by Markdiesel (Post 1053185)

I was pulling the V8 out of the Wrangler yesterday and thinking about your mod for the Tach. It took a while but I finally figured out I won't need to do that because I'm using a Wrangler flywheel and bell housing. You had to adapt because of the GM automatic. I'll still need to make the cam sensor mod though. Am I correct? Also, what kind of tubing did you use on the injector returns?

Originally Posted by redveloce (Post 1053314)

The PCM just needs to see a signal from the cam sensor on startup to turn on the tach. It doesn't check for accuracy, just presence, so you just need to tie the signal wire from the cam sensor into the signal wire from the crank sensor.

A lot of people use a relay triggered by the starter for this, which is what I originally did, but I was thinking about it last night and couldn't see any reason why it would need to be disconnected after starting. I connected the signal wires together directly and it works just fine. Much simpler!