v2203 in 88 s10
 

this is my first post i joined so i could see what all you guys are doing

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once i figure out how to post pictures i wil put some up of my adapter and modified flywheel and pullys

Welcome, looking forward to seeing your build!

how to post pics from the phone
 

i need help on how to post pictures from my phone i click on attach nothing happens i can not open it

Pictures
 

Here are some pictures of the progress I've made so far....

Keep up the good work.

Nice work! I never thought of welding the plate to the cast bell, but I didn't have that much cast thickness left for my spacing. You seem to have double the spacing I have. I like your belt setup, but the tensioner may not do too good on the torque side of the drive pulley.

FTE you made me go back and look. But once I did FTE is correct about the tensioner on the Torque side and also I am not sure if the Water Pump pulley has enough contact with the belt for proper operation under load of the water pump.

im going to try out the water pump before i put another pully on it as far as the tensioner go's there is not alot to work with on the other side for a mounting location and from everything i can tell the bellhousing is cast steel so welding was not a problem but thanks for all of the info thats why i joined

The tensioner will work in that location locked in place, not spring loaded.

i had it running today and the tensioner alittle at idle but smooths out after that

LOOKING GOOD!! Two things: First, I had a spring loaded tensioner on mine, the stroke of the engine beat it to death, especially at a normal idle speed. If I didn't keep it idled way up it was real bad. I finally had to swap to a static tensioner, MUCH better. If there's anyway you can get away from the spring loaded tensioner I would! Second, I noticed you appear to have an IDI engine like the one I'm running. They require an internal injector pump modification to get enough fuel, basically clocking the barrels. When you get ready I will show you pics and provide instructions for the mod. Keep up the good work! :pca1:

what kind of milage number are you guys getting out of the idi motors if thats what i have im not quite siure what the difference is between the two but if there is a huge difference in milage i will look for a di

Some more Reading if you like. But the rest of the information is mainly about evolution of the Diesel. Banks Power | Diesel Evolution

Direct injection diesels are as much as 15 percent more efficient than IDI diesels in terms of thermal efficiency. Power and torque output is up to 40 percent better with DI. Additionally, fuel consumption is up to 30 percent less, and that means carbon dioxide and hydrocarbon emissions are reduced by a similar amount. The transition of the burning gases from the precombustion chamber to the cylinder in IDI diesels results in significant heat losses into the cylinder head and cylinder walls, which reduces efficiency.

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I will add to the above information. If you plan to run pure Vegetable Oil then the IDI would work out better. As with the pre mixing chamber it will allow a more complete burn. I only mention this if you get the Vegetable Oil Cheap or Free as then MPG would not be as much of a concern.

If you look up the thread by UsedKubotaMan he used an IDI engine for his build and states his MPG he has obtained.

But if you plan to use Store Purchased Diesel or Bio Diesel then the DI can give as much as a 30% increase in fuel economy.

The best I've gotten is 33 MPG running the K03 turbo. The DI engines do get better mileage and IDI engine were never meant to be turbocharged. Can you take a picture of the injectors and post it so I can see it better, it sure looks like an IDI from what I can see in the pics. :pca1:

i dont have a pic yet but can i swap heads from a di motor they sell them reman

It's not that simple, the DI's have different injector pumps, pistons, and heads.

well i guess thats not a good plan b

Throw up a pic or two when you get time of the injectors and i will be able to tell for sure which one you have.

Valve cover and injector
 

Valve cover and injector

Yup, from what I can see it appears to be an IDI engine.

well that sucks

Looks like mine but it says DIV2203 on the ip.

i havent looked for the id tag yet ill do that tommorow

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where are the number that identify the motor at? and thanks in advance

On top of the valve cover.

Mine is stamped on ip.

there is nothing on the valve cover and the ip has a denso tag with numbers i cant really see

The engine you have is older than most folks are running, I'm running the same thing. I've never seen any kind of ID numbers on this generation engine, only the number on the IP, and the CC stamped on the block. I've attached a close up picture of the IDI injector, they screw in the head. DI injectors are held in with a clamp. :pca1:

thats what mine looks like thanks for the help im going to start looking for a di hopefully before im ready to swap

i am no indifferent with all the praises keep falling upon the forums and there is additional help as well to get by the process

can anyone tell me how hard it is to change the gov springs so i can get some more rpm im at about 2600 right now would like to hit 3600

Not so hard if the engine is on the bench. if it is in the truck might be a bit tougher. There are a few pics in my thread, but here is one. Your engine might have 2 springs. The one pictured is still the one you need to change. I hooked it onto the speed control arm first, and had a piece of dental floss on the other end. Fished the string through the shut down lever hole, put the speed control arm plate back on, then pull the string to get the spring to come aft, then hook it with a pick, lever it back some more until you can grab it with some needle nose pliers, then work the spring hook onto the governor arm

did you shorten the spring or use a different one?

both. I don't remember where I posted the details about my spring. It was not on my buid. But I did post up the details. I do remember a bit of the details though. The stock spring is 2.0" hook to hook and about .050" wire dia. I got a longer spring with I think .057 wire, and cut it and bent a new eye in it to get the 2" I ended up with 3150 rpm on my first and only test. The spring I want is 2" long .5" dia. and .067-.077 dia wire. That spring is available, but the 2 spring shops I found it, had $40 and $70 minimum order, and the spring is about $3 for one.
ok back out to the shop, I hope to have my engine sitting on the mounts tonight.

have fun

I just found a spring on mcmaster that's 1.875" long, .531 OD, with .080 dia wire, and an extended length of 2.085". It appears to be pretty hefty. Do you think that would work? It comes in a pack of 6 for $10.17 plus shipping. I'd be willing to buy it then send out the extras to everyone else if you think it would work.

i am new to the whole changing springs thing but that sounds a little big

The only thing to really be careful about is the length. It can't be any shorter than the stock one because it won't go to idle. With the stock spring, it is stretched some at idle, so the stiffer one may not be stretched at all at low rpm so it may not return to idle. With mine it almost didn't have enough length to idle and it is the same length as stock but real stiff. I don't have the exact dimensions, it was a long time ago. So I would suggest a bit longer to compensate. Oh, and mine will spin to 3800 rpm.

how far exactly did your machine the bellhousing to? and how think is your adapter plate

i did the flywheel first so i knew how thick the bellhousing needed to be and my plate is 3/8 thick

i have been driving the truck for about two weeks i have the rpm up to 2900 i had a couple leaks but now i can see what kind of mileage i am getting my idle is about 1000 witch seems hight to me what rpm are all you yours idling at?

700 or so, 1000 is too high.