Well Do not Follow me as I am a Shultz as in I know Nothing. But trying to learn along the way.

Always update! There are tons of folks that look at these threads, they may not comment but they're lurking in the shadows watching. Pics are always good, the help with ideas and like yellow said, it's a great motivator. Keep up the good work!:pca1:

Well things should get better as I receive some parts. :)

But I really would like to ask the Same as Gaines. Where do you connect a Oil Pressure line to on the block for the Turbo and Vacuum pump?

Here ya go.

Thank You.

Ok so you can Run both lines from there? Or to say One to the Turbo and another to the Vacuum pump?

May I ask what you did for an Oil Return?

I believe you can run both off of that port, because the turbo and vac pump are restricted feeds. As for the drain, I have my turbo draining in the side of the pan, on the V2003t motor I have it drains into the side of the block just above the pan rail.

Thank You FTE. I will be running the I think Bobcat Oil Pan of which from what I understand and I could be wrong. The Oil fills the pan to the bottom of the block or to say where the pan meets the block. And that the return oil from the Turbo should be above the Oil Line in the pan?

Attachment 34586

Nice pan! Yes you are correct, although mine is in the pan, it is a 1" pipe angled up beyond the oil level that also serves as the dipstick tube. This serves as a drain above the oil level plus it is "vented" by the dipstick, so it won't be air locked. I just didn't want to drill in the block and it works perfect.

Do you feel it is a Bad idea to drill the block for the factory Kubota type Dip Stick Assembly?

The picture of the Pan is just a stock item from Leonard's Parts (Sam is the guy to talk to )Parts-Barn.com where I purchased some of my parts from. But Thank You. :)

hello everybody happy thanksgiving to all. FTE do you have a picture of your turbo oil drain? or vac pump oil drain? I was going to drill my block for the oil dipstick tube

https://www.dieselbombers.com/diesel...version-3.html Post 33 there is a picture of the Oil Pan and Oil Pick up as well as the Oil Dipstick Tube.

Ha ha you beat me to it! I just didn't want to drill into the block and while I was in the process of building the pan, it was easy to add the drain. Plus I wanted to have the factory dipstick. I'm not using the NPR alt (wish I did), I have the powerstroke diaphram unit. Next time it will be the NPR alt.

Factory Dipstick to what?

If I drill the block for the Kubota Dip Stick I can not use that as the return as it will be to small? I could be wrong but an Oil Return by itself can be no smaller than the exit of the oil return on the Turbo preferably larger by at least 1/2? Sorry I do not know sizes. But in size 10 AN works but a 12 AN is preferable.

But since you told me to forget everything gas I try and throw all that stuff out of my head.

The pipe reduces down above where the turbo drains to dipstick tube size, so it isn't restricted. My turbo drain is 1/2 in all the way down to the 3/4 in pipe in the pan.

My turbo oil returns through the valve cover, I drilled a hole in the side of it, towards the rear and installed a 5/8 barbed brass fitting. Works great.

I have drilled a bunch of oil dip stick ports in the Kubota blocks, it’s not hard you just have to pay attention and keep your drill straight. The block metal is soft and easy to drill. WARNING- as the brill bit breaks through the bottom it will grab to one side! There is a protrusion of metal that has to be drilled away once your through, not hard just be aware. All the blocks I have ever seen had a have a place on both sides of the block available for drilling, I never have but I’m sure you could use one for an oil return. I use a dip stick from a Bobcat 743, it has a rubber squeeze type seal that pushes down into the hole you drill, works independent of the oil pan.

I have the drill bit size at the house if y'all need it.
:pca1:

I just might need the Drill Bit size. :tu: But I will not know till this next week sometime when I receive the parts. :c:

I was told by Sam that when you remove the pan you can see a flap on the inside of the block that will show where one can drill for the dip sticks? But I will not know for sure till then.

Again Thank You. And yes I will take pictures to show this stuff. :)

Not sure about drilling from the inside out, I've always drilled from the outside in. I drilled the one in the picture, see the flat undrilled spot under the injector pump. :pca1:

Thank You for the Pictures. And Nice Paint as well. They are a GREAT Help. But it does make me wonder if I will weaken the Kubota Block by using these locations for Oil Dip Stick and Return Holes?

I did not say I was going to Drill from the Inside Out. :). I was told that when you remove the pan you can see something cast into the block at the locations of the Dip Stick Locations. I am not sure what Sam was talking about until I remove the Oil Pan for a look see.

If I can use the Drivers Side for an Oil Return I will see how large of a hole I can make to install a 10 AN fitting and Y it off to the Turbo and the Return Oil for the Vacuum Pump.

I will try and Add pictures as I progress through what will be a slow project. As I really feel that there are a few Great Threads on this Conversion but are missing a great deal of detail and photos of there Conversions. If for nothing else There ideas on how things can be done. As people can use there idea or come up with a New Idea and might even be better. But Better is in the eye of the beholder. :)



But I must ask have you changed out your IDI Engine for the DI Engine as of yet?

It will not weaken the block, that's why they are there, that's where Kubota drills the holes depending on the application. You can only drill a hole approx. 3/8 or so, I will get you the specific drill bit size this weekend.

I've still not swapped over to my DI engine; I've been working on a bus project for about a year so I haven't had time. I have finished the bus now and will probably have the DI in there in the next month or so. I’m looking forward to the increase in MPG!
:pca1:

Thank You UsedKubotaMan.

By some remote chance in your Never Ending picture accumulation would you have a Picture of the Fuel Rack Limit Screw I have seen talked about to Turn it out 2 Turns?

And I also have the 2800 RPM Governor Spring Kubota Part No. 19077-56412 on the way That you gave the information for. How much did you shorten the spring to increase the RPM Range?

I would not run the turbo and alternator off the same hole... you don't wanna rob oil pressure from other parts in the motor theres one over by the pump as well I use two different spots

Thanks to Gaines I have a picture of the location of the Fuel Rack Screw. :)

Attachment 34570

Are you drilling your block tonight?, is that picture your engine?

No not me. Besides mine will be Chevrolet Orange. :). It is a Picture from Gaines to show where the Fuel Rack limit Screw is. As I have read many times of people talking about the Fuel Rack Limit Screw but not one picture to show where the darn thing was. :)

But yes I will drill both sides of the block. One for the Dip Stick Passenger side and One for the Oil Return for the Turbo and Vacuum Pump if I can make the hole large enough to do so. I hope to use an 10 AN Pipe Thread one end into the block and AN on the other and run braided line to the Drain on the Turbo and one to the Vacuum Pump connected with a Y Connector. As I have this stuff laying around.

Or I might try some of the Newer Slip Fit stuff with the AN connections. I will not know for sure till I am there. I should be getting a good amount of parts early this next week to enable me to actually start on things.

you get to start, and I am stopped. I may get a tiny bit done, but I think I have to go to work next week.
Have fun take lots of pictures.

I am glad to see that the picture from Gaines I put up for the location of the Fuel Rack Screw worked out. For some odd reason it remained sideways and without the arrow I threw in there. I guess it takes time for Photobucket and the forum to shake hands to get things right. :)

The picture also shows Gaines Drilling the block for the passenger side Dip Stick tube if someone would wish to do so. As there is a location on both the passenger side and the drivers side of the block that can be drilled. I was going to throw a Red Arrow in there but I felt it would be hard to miss the foot long drill bit and a Drill. :)

By the way UsedKubotaMan had a great idea that he expressed to me today on the Oil Line Feeds for the Turbo and Vacuum pump. And that was to either Make or use a Log of which you could hard plumb from the engine to the Log and then have separate locations on the log to go to the Turbo and Vacuum pump individually and have a location on the Log for your Oil Pressure gauge and if one should wish a low oil pressure shut down switch. :)

Speaking of low oil pressure shutdown switch, I installed one on my truck and it payed off big time. Shortly after I had it running, the stock(old) oil pressure switch decieded to give it up and puke all 2gal on I5 at speed. Well it worked on saved the motor. I simply used an oil pressure switch from a 72 Vega (its a three prong sender, one for the light and the other two prongs for a switch to the fuel pump) and wired it to the ground wire on the start solonoid. When low oil pressure happends, it simply breaks the ground to the solonoid cutting fuel.

That's a really good idea, I think I might try that oil shut off switch cause I would hate to ruin the basically new super expensive turbo I have! That thing has been a money pit but at least I know its reliable

Ya, the reason why I installed the switch in the first place was the first turbo I used I wasn't too sure of the condition, and thought if the seal was bad it may be too late before I figured it out.

After Great thought. I would not mind the warning light but the automatic shut off worries me a bit. I would not wish for the engine to shut off at a dangerous moment. Or to say that at times I would rather sacrifice the engine than myself.

But I will have an Oil Pressure Gauge.

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Well today I got the Isuzu Alternator/Vacuum Pump Combo in and I have to say it is HEAVY. But has anyone looked at the AMPS to RPM ratio? It seems as if we may have to either use a larger diameter pulley on the main drive or find a smaller pulley for the Alternator/Vacuum Pump? But I guess it all depends on your demands for AMPS. :)

Before someone asks. :) At our RPM Ranges of between 1000-2500 the amps go from 10 - 45. Or a Breakdown would be at 1000 RPM 10 AMPS at 1600 RPM 25 AMPS and at 2500 RPM 45 AMPS but at all RPM Ranges the Volts are 13.5.

I have this fail safe in addition to a guage, and glad I had it! On the amp question, you have to remember that our demand has dropped alot by eliminating the ECU, fuel pump etc, so none of us has had any issue that I know of.

FTE Thank You I just felt I should bring up the information. Like IDI VS DI but it seems as if it was a waste of the forums band width. But FTE and I talked about this subject before and UsedKubotaMan was also talking about it and I just ran across the information. :)

I also received my gift box from Sam ( Leonard's Diesel ) this evening. So now that I have a few parts such as well the Oil Pan. :). I hope to get started on this thing in a couple of days.

But the first thing I will tackle is to get the adapter mounted to take a measurement for the amount of flywheel removal that needs to be done. And while I throw the Flywheel at the next door neighbor to get done. ( He Does Not Know this yet. :). I am going to attempt to replace the rear main seals on the little Kubota. But Sam informed me that there were no less than 3 revisions on the rear bearing cover plate. So we are not sure if the gaskets he has will fit or not. But if they do not then he has the updated cover for $40.00. And Nope Sam does not know why the updated the rear cover.

FTE by the way if this works out as well for myself as it did for you then I think I may have a few ideas for an updated Kubota V2203. I was just now trying to find information on the Piston Oil Sprayers. As in if it can be done or if it should be done?

And you know me just a bit. :). I was thinking about either ROSS or Arias Diesel Forged Pistons with tool steel wrist pins and polished and shot pined Rods with better Rod Bolts along with Knife Edging the crankshaft and to relieve all sharp edges along with a good balance job with ARP Head Studs. But Not Sure. :)

I also had a Birdie in my ear about De-stroking the Kubota just a bit to increase it's RPM Range a bit and reduce the rotational mass. But nobody has a Crank Shaft for doing such a thing. And these days to Weld up the Crankshaft rod journals and re-grind to a shorter stroke would probably be prohibitively expensive. But I Digress as I awake. :)

There was a guy somewhere on "orangetractortalks"? that added piston oil squirters I think to a 3cyl. not sure of his results. Can you find another crank from a different dash # Kubota that will de-stroke????
I too am waiting to see the results of the dyno? Who was going to do that?
Off I go, 30 days in the hole; so to speak for me. I think we have internet but not sure till I get there

yall have fun

Just an FYI.

Well I just got a reply from ROSS And they State We do not have any forgings that will work with the small bore diesels. As for ARIES I have not contacted them as of yet. But they have nothing listed on there site. Oh Well I Guess Stock will work fine.

No need to reinvent the wheel imo.

FTE it looks as though that is exactly what I will be doing. :)

But I think in the end I will wish I started with a Ranger. :scare2: But I will be darned if I can not find a decent deal on one down in these parts.

And it looks as though I have been put off for a couple of days as we are just not really equipped down here for Cold as it is a rarity. :) So Please Turn that fan down a bit.