Thanks for all the information.
I'm a little concerned with the 50hp that these are pushing out? Is that really enough to get me on the highway? Also, living in San Francisco I wind up going up and down a lot of hills, will this really be enough?
Getting well over 30 mpg does sound very nice, way better than the 16 I got on my last tank.
How difficult would it be to make an adapter plate for this swap? Or should I get one made? I have access to a nice machine shop, so tools aren't an issue, but experience could be.
Where are you finding this engine for $700? From what I've seen so far online they are going for minimum $1250.

You will have to do your own hunting locally to get a deal, they are out there. 50 hp is before you add the turbo, I have plenty of power on tap, and it goes as fast down the freeway as I want. I did most of the adapter myself, had the machine shop turn down the flywheel to fit the Ranger bell. It wasn't that hard, but this wasn't my first adapter. There are also Yanmars that are being swapped out that are DI motors, the Isuzu takeouts are still IDI, so I would pass on them.

Alright, that sounds good.
How much work needs to be done to get that engine turbo ready? How much boost are you running?
Are there any other similar engines worth considering like maybe ones by Caterpillar or John Deere?

I am only running 12psi, intercooled, no other mods other than a stiffer gov spring and backing out the rack limit screw. I am not familliar with the other motors.

Thank you so much for all this information.
That sounds a lot simpler than I was expecting. I thought I would have to reinforce the head bolts or con rods or something more dramatic. That sounds pretty easy, at least as far as turbo installation.
I've been talking to someone who is doing this with a VW diesel, he has spent ages at it.

Hey Slade, I'm an ex Nissan mechanic and have worked on more than a few 4x4s. You need to take a long hard look at the way the oil pan is made for that lil truck of your's before you dive off into a swap. I have basically the same truck that i plan to convert to the Kubota but I also plan to convert to 2wd. Kinda making an early model Desert Runner out of it. I promise there will be massive fabrication issues to overcome to fit in a big enough sump into that 4x4 with all the goodies left in place. Not sayin it can't be done but put on your engineerin cap and break out the fab tools.

So you're saying that I will have issues with that oil pan clearing the front drive line?
Is this an issue that could be solved by lifting the truck a bit?
It is already higher than the other Nissan pickups of that era that I have seen, I think it had some manner of off road package installed from the factory.
I was planning on lifting it a bit anyway and widening the wheelbase for safety.
Thank you for pointing this out. I'm glad I found this out before I had my current engine on the ground next to the truck.

the front diff. on the 4x4 is kinda tucked up into the oil pan. this pan is different from the 2wd models. the 4x4 models only hold about 3.5 qts. where the 2wd holds 4.3 qts. if you get a chance look at a 2wd and compare it to what you have.

V2203 Problem
 

I am rebuilding a v2203 and I am having a problem with the nut that holds the pulley on the crankshaft. I can't seem to get it off, I have tried heating it and spraying it with penetrating grease. I'm using a 45mm wrench (I had to file the faces down a bit). But all this is no no avail.
My question is, are there any other suggestions?
I am considering breaking the nut, but don't want to do that if I can't get a new one. Is it a standard M30 thin nut? or would I need to get one from Kubota? or can I even get a replacement?
:argh:

I haven't had one apart, but Usedkubotaman has, have you tried an impact? All of my motors haven't needed rebuilding, just maybe a rear main seal, thats all, sure it needs it?