2004 E350 6.0 NO ICP PRESSURE
 

Hi everyone i am new to this forum and i am having major problems with my van. Its a 2004 e350 6.0 powerstroke with 380,000km i use this truck everyday to haul carpet i run my own installation company. The truck just died on me the other day had to get towed home and when i scan it i get no icp oil pressure what so ever very strange. changed icp,exhaust back pressure oil and filter cleaned egr put new orings on it still no go im so tired of this truck breaking down every other month when it runs i love it need to get fixed asap so i can get back to work. fcim voltages all check out ipr duty cycle is maxed while im cranking 84% i checked for low pressure oil with filter out held spring while cranked filled up quick. \i have not checked ipr screen because i don't have a clue how to get to it on this van any suggestions?

Your van doesn't have the cover that is removeable in the cab? like in the older vans?

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I would thinkt it easier on a van than any truck, unless they changed the doghouse on them.

if you mean dog house yes it does but the ipr is nowhere in sight...

The IPR sits in the drivers side of the High presure oil pump cover, it will be right in front ov the heat shield for the Y-pipe, It can be hard to see because they put a heat wrap around the IPR, it is a foil wrap and is held on with velcro and a snap. You should be able to remove the heat shield pretty easy from the back, 2 8mm bolts and one 13-15mm bolt on drivers side head.That should let you see it alot easier, Sorry just trying to picture everything from the back side, used to seeing it from the front.

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6.0 ipr valve location - Bing Images

I hope this helps a little

Most likely needs a HPOP or some orings. Could be ipr but not usually. Be sure to change hpopscreen if u change the pump.

thanks for the reply's i will try asap.I do not need to pull turbo to get ipr out? but i need to pull turbo to get to hpop what about intake also???

Its a pain but you should be able to work the cover off without the intake coming off.

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you guys think i should pull valve covers first? am i looking for oil under valve covers|?

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i got turbo off and ipr out im gonna show u picks in a min tell me what you think asap please!!:tu:

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here is some pics what should i do nexthttp://i47.tinypic.com/2it7jd.jpg

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anyone??????????????

Is that screen torn? if so replace it, ford sells a replacement screen and Oring kit, meanwhile cleat it out to make sure there is nothing inside. There is a way to test to see if the solenoid works, You apply voltage to the leads to see if it pulls in, don't do it long just make sure it moves. A torn screen will keep it from running most of the time, it gets clogged where the port is trying to close and causes it to bleed presure.

ok will try that any way for me to put new ipr sensor in and crank motor while its still apart it should build some icp pressure should it not before i put it all back together?

you could, but if it fire up shut off imediatly, you will want to make sure the oil line from turbo has a hose or something on it to get the oil into the filler tube or something, it will put out alot of oil at 75PSI.

ok i tried cleaning the ipr put back in and cranked no icp pressure what so ever also the oil feed line to turbo oil comes out slowly when i crank no pressure do you suspect my ipr is bad or i should dig deeper ?

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also when i removed the ipr earlier no oil poured out of the hole what so ever i thought is was supposed to be full full from the hpop reserve?

did you see the oil presure guage on the dash move?

actually i have a bad oil pressure dash switch it always stayed at 0 unless my rpms were around 2000

did you have it on a scanner when you said it had no ICP presure at all?? try unplugging the ICP also and try cranking once.

strange my ipr duty cycle still maxes out with scanner even when ipr is not even plugged in?

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yes icp is brand new shows 0 no matter what i will unplug and post back my results

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when i unplug icp it ready 1533psi same as desired and my ipr duty cycle goes down to 66 instead of being maxed out 84.

Yeah, when you unplug ICP it goes to a default value so the truck can still be driven in a "limp mode" so it can get you home or to a safe place. Sorry but it is sounding like you have a bad HPOP. Is the cover for HPOP solid cast iron or is it aluminum with the top of cast iron pump sticking through it.

this is still the same ipr do you think it is ok i did not replace it or it would not cause these symptoms?

Test the IPR to see if solenoil works, what kind of scanner do you have, you should be able to cycle the IPR with the scanner and put your hand on it to see if you feel it work

im not sure what you mean here is what i am looking athttp://i47.tinypic.com/2118pec.jpg

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i have ae scanner not sure if i can do that

http://www.dieselsite.com/2003-20046...lpumphpop.aspx
This is the style of pump you have, now you don't need this one, this is a high dollar billet replacement, it is a great pump but a little overkill for what you need. If you do need one Tousley Ford sells them for around $530 I believe. I would test the ipr with 2 leads of wire befor I spent money on a pump, but it is starting to leen that way.

thank you so you think its the actual pump its self i heard that when the pump goes it blows that screen right is this true? also can it be leaking somewhere around the pump? if the ipr was not work is it true i could not build any hpo? I also keep getting crank sensor open circuit this could not affect this could it? sorry for all the questions but can i get the pump out with out the intake now that u seen pic?

If pump was good and and you had HPoil leak it would normally start cold but be hard to start hot. Most of the time a blown pump can cause the screen to break, but the screen can break even if pump is good. You should be able to get the cover off without removal of the intake, you might have to remove the EGR cooler though, I would give it a try first. You need to be able to lift cover up about an inch to clear the pump, maybe a little more. you will have to remove or at least move those oil lines, there is a bolt that goes right between them that holds the lines to the housing, take that bolt out and twist the lines out, be careful of the Orings on them. pull the IPR out and give it a test to see if it moves, it is a solenoid so you should be able to feel and hear it pretty easy, just touch the 2 wires to the battery quick and it should work, just do a quick touch, don't "hold" it on there.

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Yes the turbo pedestal has to come out too, that is easy.

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Also keep in mind it the truck cut out while driving down the road it is most likely the HPOP, if it were the ICP or ipr it should have kept running, maybe not great but it should have kept running.

you mean touch the two pins where plugs in to 1 battery wire both to the same power wire and i should feel something?

NOT quite, one ground wire and one hot wire to th connector, the IPR doesn't use the body as a ground, it uses one of the wires as ground.

the truck got super quiet like it was not even a diesel and was shaking no response to throttle what so ever. It was so quiet it was pretending to run it would stall just by turning the wheel in park then it never started again. before all of this happened it started to take 3 key cycle cranks to get to start before it would start on the first try 4sec. also i have had the egr unplugged for a couple months prier to this because it ran better this way.

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i should be able to use my amp wires from my car stereo then ground and power?

Just use a piece of wire from the red wire on IPR to battery positive, then from yellow-red wire to ground. if you have access to air compressor you can try to blow air through it then connect to battery and see if you can still blow air through it to make sure it is sealing. Sure sounds like the pump went though.

you were spot on the ipr works as it should that sucks for me. any precautions when i have the cover for hpop open? also anything else i should change while i am in there this truck has almost 400,000 kms thanks for all your help so far!!!

I would replace the branch connection tube, it attaches to pump and to the branch tube that feeds the uppipes for the heads, it has a snap to connect fitting that can leak a little over time and also you will be moving it that can hurt it eveen more so once you are in there it only makes sense to change it.
As far as taking precautions just use air to blow the top of the motor off to make sure there is no debri that could fall in there, if its real greasy use some carb clean to clean the area off, you want to get it as clean as you can before you take cover off. Have some rags handy so you can place them over the area just in case ou drop something while working, just make sure they are out before everything is buttoned up/you would be supprised how often this happens.
Click on images on your browser and type in, 6.0 hpop, you have the aluminum one that looks like a cylinder, that way you will know what it is going to look like.

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when you replace it just fill it up with oil the best you can before you put the cover on, it will take a while cranking to get all the air out so it will start, have your batterys on a charger to help out, it will take some driving to get rest of air out and until then it might sound a little rough, usually 40 miles should have it straightened out.

http://performancemachinemfg.com/i-7...2004-only.htmlthank you very i will keep this thread updated as i get more progress how long would you say it will take to do what you said 3-4hrs? like this pic?

http://performancemachinemfg.com/images/F30028780.jpg

6.0 hpop - Bing Images
this is what it will look like when you take the cover off

ok im stuck how do i get the egr cooler out of the way so i can get those 3 bolts out?

We are taking two apart right now, ill take pictures and post when I get a minute

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ok thanks any way for me to pry up on egr cooler just to get bolts out?

Sorry I didn't see this till now, look at the intake where the cool attaches, there are 2 bolts that go through the top of the intake that bolts to the cooler, by looking at the intake bolts you will see 2 thare not alighned with the others, then there is one bolt right where the HPOP cover is that bolts the cooler to the intake, the last thing is a clamp that holds the cooler to the exhaust pipe. after all that is unbolted you can pry the cooler down out of the intake, If you want to take it all the way out you will have to remove the cooler line, there will be lines on the hose that you line up with the line on the housing it attaches to then you pull straight back on it. If you want to make this an EGR delete while you have it out/good idea/ you can get a 35mm freeze plug, steel one or zink/not brass/ and you can drive it into the end of cooler where it bolts it up to exhaust pipe, if you know someone with a welder they can tack it in just to be sure it stays, if you don't have a welder handy you can just use red locktite all around it before you put it in. By blocking off this it will make the van run better and it will help eliminate one of the biggest problems with this motor. While you are into it this far I would highly recommend rebuilding the oil cooler, they get plugged up and can cause alot of exspensive problems if they rupture. part # is
3c3z-6a642-ca , Again Tousley Ford will be the least exspensive for that part. I would also buy a coolant filter setup for it like the Sinister coolant filter setup. I do not like telling people to buy stuff but My eyes have been opened on the importance of these items, it can save you an exspensive engine by doing these simple things. If you get a chance read my writeup under the 6.0 section titled Practice what you preah/ good luck and sorry for late post.

I didn't get around to the pictures but ill say you don't have remove the egr cooler to pull the hpop cover. I wouldn't dare leave it in there.

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He has the old style pump with a castiron cover, need a little more room than the newer pumps.

For some reason I was thinking it was a late 04 lol I've got two 05 trucks in the shop guess that's just what's on my mind

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hi guys a little update here i pulled my hpop yesterday and noticed that the ball bearing was missing so i figured i would try and fix first. I purchased a ipr repair kit and repaired the screen and changed the orings good as new. I also tapped and plugged the hpop just for the heck of it put back in cranked still no icp reading. i put together again with cover off and pluged turbo oil line cranked with top hole on hpop open abd it barley dribbled out so when a pump goes bad does it just stop flowing? also when i pull hpop off again that hole for oil underneath flows for like 30min strait it seems like it builds so much pressure under pump and has nowhere to go because top hole on plug does not blow oil out at a fast rate let me know what you think?????????????????????? does the top oil line from the pump feed the icp valve and injectors? if it does then thats why i get no psi because hpop is dead interally.http://i47.tinypic.com/28r1fl0.jpg

When these pumps fail they will not pump anything, the oil coming from underneath is coming from the high presure oil resivoir, it holds about 2qts of oil. The oil goes out that metal tube to the injectors and Icp, the OIL goes to the IPR through the cover