2003 6.0 psd cutting out
 

throwing codes for crank and cam sensor replaced both still does not work put in new pcm and checked wiring harness ficm tests ok also any ideas. at first it yould cut out at 15 psi now its at like 3psi. 3 shops and no answers need help

still throwing the codes? what psi are you talking about fuel? boost?

Psi boost and check engine light cam back on with the same codes

if it were me i would probably take the timing cover off and check the crank gear, it has possibly spun on the crank throwing everything out of time

seen this happen on a duramax took forever to figure out

damn that sucks its on the back of the motor im so done with ford. thanks for the info will get the shop to check hope thats the problem. if any one else has had this problem let me know. and ill update.

Not a timing issue,,,, could be just a connector, check the main plug at the fire wall and the other connectors for the system.

ok so you r saying its not timing its electrical.

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Also it runs fine with no boost.

if it runs fine with no boost and only cuts out with boost it may be a fuel issue because when it boosts with too little fuel it will put the fire out// check filters and furl pump output, not sure how to check output but someone on here should.

new fuel pump 4 months ago and new filter 2500 miles ago having shop check wiring harness and mass air flow sensor.

i just ran into this problem the other day. i work in a diesel shop and i specialize on these junk motors from ford. you need to remove your egr valve at the front of the motor next to the intake from the intercooler. clean it off with some brrakleen and check inside for carbon dust. you can suck it out with a vacuum cleaner.

I have a egr delete already

btw the timing i'm talking about isnt on the back of the engine i'm talking about the crank gear that turns the cam gear on the front, i know 7.3s have a problem with breaking the dowl pins just like the duramax's do thats why WOP tig welds the gear on the crank on a 7.3 to prevent it from slipping time, now i havnt seen a 6.0 do this but i would think that it is totally possible, the duramax that i did see do it drove into the shop with a fuel leak problem, shut it off and unknown to us the pin broke when the engine shut off, fixed the fuel leak and the truck would not start, no codes everything seemed to check out didnt figure it out untill we had the timing case off and was turning the engine over by hand and seen the gear move on the crank

may not be your problem since yours will start and is boost related but wanted to share that bit of info :c:

I'll look into that only cam gear I can find on a 6.0 is in the rear. But thanks for the help

very possible that i'm wrong on the location of the gear because i've never had the timing case off on a 6.0, we've done headgasket jobs on them but ya dont have to go into there to do that

Yea the 6.0 has cam crank and hpop gears in rear. What a pos I'm hating my truck even more and the shop spent 6 hours on it and still no idea :argh: they said some thing about ficm and ghost codes idk just more bs and a pos ford that wonte run I might sell my rhino and d-stroke it I guess.

seinb/ Where are you located, someone on here might be able to help you look at it and it won't cost you anything, maybe, I have only seen one case like this, my sisters truck did this, it would only go to like 1600rpm, it was caused by the frame mounted fuel filter being gunked up from offroad fuel, the tank they got the fuel out of was dirty I guess.

I'm in southern Idaho. I posted in there section on here but no answer. The weird thing is it will drive fine if there is no boost all the way to 4000 rpm but if some one could help that would be great. The shops here can't figure it out

look on the pass. side of the intake manifold, there is a small black tube that goes to the boost sensor that is mounted above and to the left of the turbo on the cowl area, make sure this tube is hooked up, but I think it is if you are showing boost on your guage,:argh: still sounds like not getting enough fuel, double check the frame mounted fuel filter even though it only has 2500 on it, stranger things have happened

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PS. check out// dieselmann's page// there is alot of good info on there, after looking at it you might want to check the screen in the fuel tube that is inside the fuel tank, could be clogged, that could be the reason you needed a new fuel pump, you don't run any bio fuel due you? not good for these trucks.

No bio and would the filters cause that instantly. I would figuer it would be a progressive thing not a instant one but will check for sure

It can happen quick, one day all is good then the next CRAP:scare2: the 03s and 04s are the only ones that had an issue with the coating on the steel fuel tanks, it can flake off and clog the pickup tube in the tank,
by checking the filters it just eliminates that as the cause, sounds like a lack of fuel is the problem here.

I know it's frustrating, and made even worse when you have technicians working on it who couldn't diagnose squat to begin with. Let's think about this rationally, and I bet we can get you an answer in a few days (depending on how long it takes you to respond to questions, cause I'm on this site way too much!) :c:

Please give me the exact codes the truck is throwing, and we need to know what mods are on the truck.

It's an 03, with an egr delete...

Programmer?

How does the truck start in the morning? Does it crank long? Does it smoke once it's started?

Do you have any gauges? My first step here would be to hook a fuel pressure gauge up to the fuel bowl and see what you're getting. Ideally you'll need to see fuel pressure with a load on, so not just sitting idling in the driveway.

How is the truck primarily used? Grocery getter, or hooked to a 5'er all the time? Did this issue arise out of no where, or has this been some sort of gradual thing? Any parts replaced recently?

Cam is gear driven from the rear of the motor, motor would need to be pulled, or if the trans is dropped you can access the rear too. (just an FYI thing).

What are you reading codes with? If it's just a handheld programmer I would certainly be getting it hooked up to Autoenginuity or IDS from a Ford shop. Who is doing the work on the truck now? Not a Ford house? (can't really blame ya).

Answer these questions and lets go from there. :tu:

Arp suds no programer now took off codes 2614 2617 not much pulling mainly empty and the prob started instantly while I was passing a car. Had my foot in it. Just did the studs and egr also 2 new injectors. Ran fine for two weeks then bang prob. Sorry about typing on phone not computer

Since it happened out of no where, and I've seen those two codes before...

Those are output circuit codes. The CMP and CKP signals are provided to the FICM from the PCM for injector timing.

Those circuits are located in the main engine harness which would be the larger of the 3 plugs on the ficm. you may want to trace that harness back to the pcm looking for chafes or even an unseated ficm connector.

It is really rare for either of these sensors to go bad, and the chance of both of them going bad the same time... about as likely as me building a condo on the moon.

Did the truck have any stalling issues or hard starting issues before this? Usually these codes will get thrown when a truck has stalled or died and a lot of cranking ensues trying to get it going again. My guess is neither of them were ever bad, and were just a side effect of something else.

Are these codes on all the time? What happens if you clear them, do they pop back up instantly, or only when you hit some boost? If it's strictly boost related, I'd pop the EPB tube off, and the sensor, clean both of them really well, and reinstall. I've seen this cause issues like this as well. I recently had the EPB sensor wire harness chaffe on me, it caused issues similar to a sticky turbo, it would take forever to spool, would often fall to 0 psi driving 55mph down the road and I could leave a cloud 3 miles long of black smoke. Taped up the wires and good to go.

No problems before and after reset the come back and the truck runs fine with no boost

Check that wiring harness on the FICM going to the PCM. Also pull and clean the EPB tube.

Go here: DTS Articles - Coffee Table Books

2nd row down, 3rd picture over is the "coffee table" for your truck. It's PDF, and I would suggest doing this on a desktop, not your phone. It will show you where all of this stuff is located if you're not familiar with it. It's really handy to have anyways.

Try those simple things first. :pca1:

A/c quit not sure if it's related

Did it quite completely or did it switch to defrost... could just be a simple vacuum leak? Does your auto 4x4 work? When you have A/C on, and you turn the 4x4 switch to 4x4 high, does it go to defrost?

Not sure on the 4x4 but the compressor does not kick on just winders if it was in the same wire loom

Probably completely unrelated. Focus on the cutting out first, and we can worry about the A/C later, since that's not quite as important.

When it's cutting out as boost is coming on, does it still build boost, or just choke out and no boost gets built? Is there any smoke coming from the exhaust when this happens?

No smoke and won't build boost now did before ford touched it

If it was fueling hard and you weren't getting boost you'd have tons of black smoke, sounds like the injectors are not pushing any fuel... again... check the FICM connections.

keep in mind he had a new fuel pump put on 4 months ago, if it runs up to 4k with no boost and no smoke?????? that would meen he's not getting enough fuel, wouldn't it?? that thing ought to look like an old steam engine!!!!!! just a thought

I can unplug my fuel pump and start my truck and drive down the road, I get no boost and NO power, but I doubt I could get 4k rpms.

The easiest thing to check is the FICM connections and the wire harness, that really shouldn't take more than 30 minutes, and I've read that in more than a few cases causing this, so I thought he could start there. Really there could be a few things going on, but I'm just trying to get some things eliminated, mostly easy stuff.

I can't believe it can run to 4krpms with no boost and no smoke coming out, that doesn't even sound feasible.

How do you know there is no boost? 03 wouldn't have a boost gauge factory, can you actually hear the turbo when you fire the truck up? Or does it sound more like a big block gasser...?

Can here the turbo and have boost gage if you shut down the turbo with the computer it runs no problem. The ford dealership in twin has the truck now 130 for unlimited tech till they find the prob:jump: so I hope I can drive it home soon if nit I'm going to tear into it my self

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If the ficm or PCM is seeing a trouble code it will shut down motor so it does not f it up. Atleast that's what I'm getting it is in some sort of limp mode.

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Ford called said it's a short in injector harness. I'll keep my fingers crossed

Hopefully they get it figured out without wasting too much of your time or money! That wire harness goes from the FICM to the injectors... I wasn't too far off! Let us know how you make out. :pca1:

try pulling the 6.0 attach it to a chain and use as a boat anchor and put a cummins with a 6 speed in problem solved

Crushed injector harness and a/c works again:rocking:

cool, glad you got it goin, where was it crushed? would be good to know for future

The plug back of motor I was told drivers side

Next time try and post useful information.:td: