go to the ford section at the top, click 03-07, click forum tools, then click start a new thread:c:

awesome. Thank ya buddy

yep, let me know if you need more help:tu:

alrighty will do. If you can, send me a message over here? Is that possible?

I have a Ford 250 super duty 2001 I have replaced the glow plugs and glow plug relay, I still have a hard time starting it on a cold morning. Could it be the starter is going bad? My truck has 270,000 miles on it.

Test batteries you could have starter tested to


Strokin' Away

vacuum pump replacement
 

Hey all, I Have a 95 2wd supercab f250 powerstroke auto. 327000 miles <-----yeah thats right!!! All original motor, turbo, and injector pump even! Runs Like a tank still. one tranny rebuild when i blew the torque converter to pieces pulling an obviously too heavy a trailer though! I had heard some squealing yesterday and upon poppin the hood real quick, i assumed it was the ac clutch and went and picked one up planning on changing it today after work. well, like a dummy i drove it to work and had to limp home a couple miles with no belt. thank god its cold as hell here today. well, I looked under the hood and the vacuum pump pulley was obviously not where it should be. Now this is a dumb question, is there anything i have to do(bleed anything etc...) other than just change the pump? I would greatly appreciate the feedback! :c:

Not to be a stick-in-the-mud but, this thread needs to get back on topic.

This thread was designed for Bombers to post their addresses, phone numbers and various other information to help other Bombers, should they break down on a road trip or something of that sorts, get their rides fixed and back on the road. Hence the title "Diesel Bombers support LIST".

If you broke down far away from home, this list allows you to personally contact a Bomber near your crippled ride who can either fix your truck, or at least steer you toward a reputable mechanic that won't screw you over and maybe put you up for the night while your truck is being fixed.

We have a "Diesels in Distress" section for Bombers who are broke down away from home that need to post Technical questions like the several above, that is monitored constantly.

I'm not attacking anyone or flaming up here. This list is a good resource for people who travel and someone who IS broke down looking through the list may not find someone in their area due to the list being plugged-up with tech questions.

Mods, if I'm way off base here, feel free to delete this.

Jerry in Danville, KY (close to Lexington, KY)

I have a trailer and I know several good places to get your equipment repaired. Need help for anything around this area let me know.

859-324-0310

Ray
Bellingham, WA
(360) 318-6490
Have a truck and a strap, can get a flatbed, up to 41 feet. Still working on the shop, but I can get you off the road anyway. Know a couple of reputable shops in town. I drive (local) for a living, so during the week, I may or may not be able to help quickly, but I can at least point you in the right direction, or get there as soon as I can.

Some diesel experience (12 Valve Cummins, 6.2/6.5 Chev, 6.9/7.3 and early PSD. Detroit, and DT International a little too.)

Everett to the Canadian Border.

:rocking:

Nice to see so many helpfulls out there. I am in Farmington Mn. and have a '94 gmc with a 6.5 that i am trying to figure out how to jump terminals to read the engine code (mine is OBD1), I know, paperclip but to what terminals, i need to figure out if I need an Injector pump or a pmd, 2 shops said put in an IP. another said read code first...

98 6.5 turbo Diesel
 

I just picked upa 98 CHevy 6.5 Turbo Diesel for my quad. I drove it home 2 hours away and when i went about 14 miles it started revin by its self and like choking itself out but not stalling. when i lift up off the throttle it just goes to idle. The truck starts up everytime fine. It idles fine it just wont drive or rev up. When im in park and i rev the motor it sounds sick and like backfires. when i drive it around 2000 rpms it starts misfiring and revving up and reving down. its like a throttle position would be messed up if it had one. I just dont know whats wrong with it.Anybody have any ideas. I am a jet engine mechanic so i am very mechanical incline. I build motors for fun. Please Help

Does the 6.5 liter have the same injector pump as the 6.2? If it does, it sonds like the check valve in the return line fitting is bad. a quick way to find out is: Take off your return line, unscrew the fitting it hooks too on the IP. Find a punch that will fit inside. lock the fitting in a vise and drive the punch thru with a hammer. The check ball is glass, it will shatter and you can blow it out. reassemble. If it runs fin now, then the problem is your injector pump seals are going out and plugging the return line. get your pump rebuilt asap, but this will work for the short run.

Think you need to post this in the 6.2/6.5 forum, not on the support forum. Hope you get it fixed.

#19 heater fuse
 

i checked all fuses, all are good.im there are 2 wires cut on the drivers side in front of the firewall[red, yellow}

2003 f350 7.3 needs help
 

2003 f150 7.3 diesel died on freeway while driving
completly factory except towtruck acc.
been throught fuel system from microfilters to fuelfilter fuel is good but was dirty and almost a prob
still will wont run
fuses r all good
no engine light codes
tach has never worked stuck a 5000
wts light works
wondering where to go next

new to workin on diesels truck but have a shop and ready

This post is only a place to find someone to help. Not a place to post questions. You'll need a scan toll with live data as a minimum to fix your truck.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

5.9 24 valve fuel pressure
 

help

what would cause fuel pressure to go from 20lbs to zero then back up again
sometime taking my foot off thr pedal or pulling over and shutting it off for five min
starting up again fuel pressure is fine for about five min running time
can the ecm do this??
1998 5.9 24 valve cummins
i installed ddrp replacement a two years ago ,

thanks
chester

oil pressure change
 

might soune lame but 3 things come to mind. low oil, low idle, and old oiil. what temperatures are you in, I had a similar occurance and the temperature was hovering aroung 0. kstart with the cheap and easy fixes b/4 you think something major. hmm was there any engine noise, knocking, rattling, anything different wht=en the pressure fluctuation started?

Chester,

The ECM might be able to do it...but I wold think it is a bad connection to the pump, or a bad pump myself. If you are good with wiring, I would check all wiring with an old school analog meter (Like a Simpson 260) first. 1 strad of wire will read good with a digital meter, but the old analog meters actually put a load on the wires and will show open if you have a partial break.

I am sure you do not want to hear it, but it most likely the pump if the fuel pressure is fluctuating that bad.

I am not sure how to check the ECM wiring to the pump, maybe someone else can tell you.

This should be in the Cummins forum. This thread is for people that are broke down and need help to get in off the road.

Hope this helps!

Offio

up in canada Brinson Ontario
 

I think this is a very good idea We like in canada By 401 and 416 HWYS I am not great at diesels but willing to help have tools small garage welder room for trailers paddocks and barn for horses 20ft float pulling truck great mechanic next door need help up this way call do what we can 1-613-229-5837 Terry

Any fellow coal rollers near Rochester New York? Looking for a extra set of hands to help, got beer and fuel.:tu:

Have a 1993 cheverolet Silverado 1500 6.2 natural asperation 520000 kms 4x4 reg cab long box is a general work truck use it in my construction job went to turn up the power screw and not sure how to put the cover on any idea's? As iv looked up the governor can get jammed and motor can take off

1998 international
 

hi all i got a 98 international 4700 dt466e and the warm engine light come on and the truck run rough, turn it off restart it run fine . so were do i start help :scare2:

hi all i got a 1998 international leaking a little oil from ,not sure on the left side (driver side) fuel line go to it,i think it the fuel rail, is that full of oil, i am no diesel mechanic can i retorque those bolt will help

Hi am working const.job in miss.a long way from home. Got 4 days off coming july 4-7 and my 5th gear went out. I can fix it like in your article since im also a welder but i need to know where to get the gear and upgraded nut and washer from.(Though i dont know why they didnt use red locktite.)

Look into these items...:c:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NV4500-DODGE-5TH-GEAR-LOCK-NUT-RETAINER-UPDATED-/180851331740?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a1b94529c&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-NV4500-Transmission-Trans-Updated-Retaining-5th-Gear-Nut-Kit-/221176374895?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337f23a66f&vxp=mtr

Upgraded nut off eBay was junk. Didn't last 2000 miles. Went to go to job in north Texas and luckily it went out while only hour from home. Took truck to my son who is a cert. Mechanic and he talked to local diesel shop. My son had saved the old 5th gear nut off my transmission and they said drill out old nut where blind ended bolt used to be and install longer bolt with double nuts and tighten crap out of it. They claim this is better repair and should last if I don't lug below 55 is 5th gear.

It is leaking fuel what seems to be out the bottom of the injector pump when it is turned off but quits when it is started and have to bleed injectors for it to start back up
And it's a 1992 dodge 5.9 cummins

1996 f350 7.3
 

hi I have a 96 7.3 with some codes I am getting #1 injector circuit low #2 high to low side open #4 high to low side open and idm fault these all come up when I do a buzz test truck hesitates badley wondering if I should change out the idm to start with or pull the valve covers any info would be greatly appreciated thanks

Noise and smells
 

If i can get this dang computer to work. I may have posted more than once. Please excuse me if I have.

1984 f250, 6.9, not modifications. All stock. I do have a water separator on it and it has the button manual glow plug set up on it. I've done a new solenoid valve for the IP and the new hoses and oring/caps for the fuel return. New fuel filter and oil about 6 months ago. I drive her once a week. Back up to my motorcycle and I use it to haul a camper on weekends at times.

She always runs good but a loud noise occurred 2 weeks ago. Sounds like it was from the front of the engine at first but then it seemed very loud underneath. Like sheet metal being rubbed with metal. Very loud. I stopped her and the only thing that was wrong was the power steering fluid was low. So i filled it up and the noise was gone after I started her up again.

Notes - Got louder with the pedal but not really RPM connected. Pushed the clutch in and out and noticed no change.

The noise returned last Saturday night. I drove home and shut her down. Went inside and got a flashlight and gloves and started her up... noise was gone. Now I can't get it to make it again. I did tighten up the v-belts on the generator and fuel pump but still no noise. Every thing seems tight enough. I don't feel/see anything loose or wobbly when it runs. The clutch on the fan feels consistently tight - turns ok.

The latest thing I notice, raw diesel smell in the cab, and it began just after I did an air purge a few weeks ago. I needed fuel one night (about the same time, just before the first noise event or so) and I got to the station and they were out of diesel. I had to go a bit further and sucked some air into the system. I got the air out and it ran fine with the exception of this noise a few days later.... I always smell fuel for a few days after doing a purge but this time, it seems to not be going away and getting stronger, especially tonight.

Thats where I am. Tomorrow, I'll crawl under and look at that cover over the bell housing and look for some fuel leaks I suppose. Sorry for the length but thanks for any help I can get on these mysteries.

Frank

2003 Ford F250 SD Diesel Plz help!
 

Okay so in the last couple of years I have done all the goodies, re-did the bolts on the 6.0 yep heads went bad, then some dumb ass ran in to me replaced the front end, but now I cant get the rpm over 750 while in idle or in drive gave it an oil change today and replaced the fuel filters, and nothing if anything it worse now. plz help also i know a little about my baby she is my pride in joy want her back on the road.

Hey I am new here I have a 2007 6.7 Cumminswhat does it mean when the reserve antifreeze tank is bubbling before the truck

John vanZyl

40x60 shop, heated floor and just about every tool/hose/fitting ya need
class 7-8 is more our specialty, but with a meeting of the minds we can fix just about anything :yeah:
access to floats, 30 minutes south of Ottawa, tons of resources too get ya out of any jam! AND we ALWAYS have a few high test pints kickin around for any yankee friends! :c: 613 897 8687

pettered out
 

my F250 turbo 1999 7.3, a few hours after installing new altinator and it producing to many volts, almost 17, blew white smoke, lost almost all power then failed to turn over any more than 3-4 more cycles then wouldn't crank at all. battery s had been going dead when not ran more than 5 hours or so. was hoping new altinator fixed problem.When I saw the volts going thru the roof got home as fast as possible. decided to take it out one more time before having alt checked /possibly replaced as soon as store opened. it seemed to be fine volts were perfectly within their limits and not fluctuating and about 3 miles from home is when it smoked, lost all power, and petered out as I just made it off the rd. hasn't ran since. starter was week so I replaced it so it turns over better than ever, tach reads almost 800 rpms when batts are fresh, new glow plug relay. Im in texas in it was 111 yesterday and am told in this heat glow plugs dont even have to heat fuel. Gunna change the oil this morning. battery s still draining if left connected. also after I stop cranking each time the wind shield wipers go a lap. this is also new to me and have had the truck at least 5-6 months with no issues. When it quit it just acted as though it was tired and wanted to rest a min. Knowing my batterys didn't have but about one more try when I was stuck I sprayed a little ether in it and it made kind of whooompp and no power left to try again. please advise.
Thank you for any advice.

right to the point: 99 f250 7.3l
1 new battery, 1 new used starter, 2 new alt new fuel bowel filter ,oil change , is now in shop. i an out of time and still had a short killing me/it every time i turned around!!! mabye the battery i didnt replace causing short? will hopefully find out today:argh:

what's wrong with maine. I lived there for 8 years. loved it. unfortunately, my current wife can't handle to cold. live long and prosper....

I have read all the posts on here, I just had all 8 injectors and all 8 glow plugs replaced. Truck had misfires in few cylinders. Now since having them all replaced the truck bucks or misses at highway speeds....I had mechanic ride with me and hook up computer, there is no misfires in any cylinders and the FICM only drops to 47, but they cannot figure out the issue. I have an EGR delete done...also the truck never did miss or buck at highways speeds even when I had bad injectors! It would only miss first thing in morning and had a rough idle, since new injectors and glow plugs, truck idles smooth. HELP!!!! Truck is getting expensive!

Help $5k deep, 2 shops tagged out and still no love
 

I tried to start a new thread. Hope it's ok that I post here. I've got a 98 K2500 Sub with fuel problems. For simplification, I'll start from the back and go forward to describe what's been done.

- New tank (old one rusted)
- New sending unit and sock (lots of slime)
- Plenty of algae killer
- fuel return line replaced
- fuel line to filter replaced
- lift pump replaced, good voltage
- fuel filter replaced
- "last ditch" screen replaced
- OPS and fuel pump relay replaced
- fuel pressure installed at T-valve and run into cab for easy viewing
-Pressure primes to 6-7 psi
-idle fuel pressure is 3.8-4 psi
-fuel pressure at 3,000 rpm is 2.5-2.8
- PMD replaced and #9 resister used (relo already done to front air dam)
- IP replaced (new)

Problems:
- Drove great for 400 miles, then left me stranded.
- P0231 code
- tested PMD cable red B wire. Comes from Fuel Solenoid should sit at 5V and surge to 20V square wave (I am using a fluke rms meter). I'm getting the 5V but no surge.
- Idles smooth as silk, but stutters like it did when it let me stranded if I rev to 3,000 rms.
- White smoke at start up (70 F day). Goes away when warm. Comes back at rev to 3,000 rpms.

I'd like to drive it, but in Northern Virginia (DC traffic) it's not good to often be stranded in a 5,000 pound rock. I'm not even getting a good "limp home" ability when stranded.

I need the truck and don't have funds to replace it. Any thoughts? 2 shops have given up on me so far. I'll also take recommendations on a Virginia shop to fix it.

Thanks,

Larry

DIESEL BOMBERS Support List GET HELP NOW !!
 

Hi Larry sorry to hear about your truck. I would suspect the injectors are leaking with the white smoke on start up.
Maybe one of the Chevy guy's will chime in too help.
With all the fuel contamination you had found could be that the trash/ biological microbe in the fuel system clogged those injectors.
Don't worry the moderator can move this thread to the appropriate spot.

my neighbors truk
 

Its a 2007 f350 single cab 2 wd that used to be a company truk for road crews nostart its had several people attempt to crank it then i got it they put a fuel pump on it it supposedly ran out of fuel but i dont think it did. I replaced a few gloplugs and the controller gko plug on time @ about 65 degrees is 45 seconds it only had 52 psi fuel pressure i cleaned the regulater now has 125psi. reset the airfilter thing repaired oil temp wiring put clean fresh fuel in it also changed oil filter and oil fuel filter also has 48 volts on ficm i also put the ficm in my ladyfriends truk and it cranked rite up also put two new batteries in it i went step by step through fords checkout except the last step then the x stepped on my laptopnow i cant find that page any ideas